***??? fuel issues again?

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TheMint

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got an 8 bronco LOVE it .. lovingly call it the Bumble (after the Rudolf's happy new year) problem, ran great then pfft. died on the freeway, wouldn't start.. have replaced timing chain, distributor, cap, rotor, various sensors and the egr valve, along with waterpump while I was at it, was running great. then night before last I was driving home and it started to "miss" just a lil bit thought I was low on fuel (fuel gauge is ****) came home from work and parked it.. went out to start it and warm it up the next day and blamo, started idled for a bit then died. thought I was completely out of gas, put 10 gallons in and I thought viola its fixed, went up and filled the tank. tried to start it this morning same thing. help. this is my only vehicle and the wife is getting pissy about me having to use her lil car for work.

 

miesk5

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yo,  WELCOME!

What year is it?  an 86 w/EFI? 

if so,  do you know how to check for Codes?

Self Test w/ a Ford Code Reader - & Connector Location Video in an 86; "...My Test Connectors and Battery are on the "right side" (passenger) behind a black EGR Vacuum Reservoir..."
Source: by JKossarides ("The Bronco", Jean) at http://www.supermotors.net/registry/media/783663  

Next is to check for vacuum leaks; see my vac lead tests @ http://broncozone.com/topic/23994-90-58l-getting-continuous-code-33-and-running-code-44/

Without a Code(S) this is what a Ford tech would check (BIG $)

  • Check distributor cap, adapter, and rotor.
  • Inspect spark plugs and plug wires.
  • Check ignition switch.
  • Check ignition coil for voltage.
  • Inspect ICM for damage.
  • Check for presence of anti-theft devices.
  • Ignition System: PIP circuit
  • SPOUT circuit
  • IGN GND circuit
Fuel
  • Check IFS switch.
  • Check for fuel contamination/quality.
  • Check fuel filter.
  • Check for correct fuel pressure.
  • Fuel Pump System: FP circuit
  • FP relay

[*]Fuel Injection:
  • INJ 1, 2 (MFI)
  • INJ 1, 2 .. (SFI)

Power and Grounds
  • Check for low battery voltage.
  • Inspect electrical connections, wires, and harnesses.
  • EEC Power: VREF
  • VPWR/EEC power relay

[*]EEC Grounds:
  • SIG RTN
  • PWR GND
  •  

Air/Vacuum
  • Check vacuum lines for leaks or wear.
  • Check air intake system.
  • TP sensor
  • MAP sensor
  • IAC solenoid
Other
  • Check engine coolant level.
  • Check thermostat for proper operation.
  • Check EGR valve stuck open.
  • Check for moisture entry into PCM.
  • Check camshaft timing and cylinder compression.
  • Check for throttle body contamination.
  • Check for proper idle speed setting.
  • ECT sensor
  • EGR Systems: EVP sensor
  • EGR solenoid(s)

[*]PSP switch
  •  
  • IAC solenoid

 
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TheMint

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sorry just realized it stated an 8 I meant 88, my mechanic JUST went through all the stuff you listed.

 

miesk5

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yo, ok

Do us a favor and try a self test for codes using a short length of wire

by my pal, BroncoJoe19
 

http://broncozone.com/topic/14269-code-reader/?&pid=74587&mode=threaded

You should see at Least a PASS CODE (11) in KOEO and KOER sections;

Your  Check Engine Light should be working to do this;

Check Engine Light (CEL) comes on when the electronic engine control system is not working properly. The check engine warning indicator comes on briefly when the ignition switch lock cylinder is turned to ON, and should turn off when the engine starts. If the check engine warning indicator does not come on when the ignition switch lock cylinder is turned to ON or if it comes on while the vehicle is moving, the system is malfunctioning
If the CEL does not light up at all when starting it; then suspect that bulb is burnt-out or loose, socket was damaged by PO or shop, etc. or someone removed it, which does happen, unfortunately.
 

The engine temperature must be greater than 50° F for the Key On Engine Off (KOEO) Self-Test and greater than 180° F for the Key On Engine Running (KOER) Self-Test.
Run it around to heat the engine up and shift thru all gears incl Reverse. Then turn off all accessories/lights, etc.

Make sure A/C is off and transmission is in Park (automatic) or in Neutral for a Manual & release clutch.

Do Key On Engine Off (KOEO) portion first.
 

And Post em here according to:
KOEO
&
KOER
  With NO CODES other than Pass Codes; we'll have to get more opinions here on what Componetns (and wiring/connectors, etc) to Test

This is a help;

Strategies by Ryan M http://oldfuelinjection.com/?p=64
 
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TheMint

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I don't have a tester, how can I check the codes? I know there's an electrical test module but when I try to use the paperclip jumper  all I get is the in line pump running at all times..

 
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TheMint

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okay so.. figured it out. (thank you youtube) code read. 1, 6, 3. if that's any help. thanks

 
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TheMint

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hey Yo! the code is 63. I double checked.. it just repeats 63... thanks

 

miesk5

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yo

63 X     TPS circuit below minimum 0.6 volts.in KOEO   X   TPS circuit has intermittently failed below minimum 0.6 volts in CM. Code 63: Throttle Position (TP) Circuit Low Input.

Suspect open TP sensor, harness.
Bad or misadjusted TPS,
TB base idle mis-set,
binding throttle cable
Inspect for damaged or pushed out Connector pins, corrosion, loose wires, etc. Service as necessary
 if failed will give you the rich fuel mixture
Click on this;

Throttle Position Sensor Testing, Replacement and Adjustment

 by Seattle FSB

You'll need a Digital Voltmeter (DVM) to do the job.
and another TPS Test

Part 1 -How to Test the TPS (Ford 5.0L, 5.8L).by easyautodiagnostics  http://easyautodiagnostics.com/ford_tps_4.9L_5.0L_5.8L/bad_tps_test_1.php


Note that they label the VREF (5 Volts from PCM) , labeled 1,  as RED;  should be Orange
 
 
Hopefully, the idle-stop ***** has not been adjusted
 
btw, Everytime I type a phrase or word in, the Font, Color & Size changes..
 
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TheMint

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can you interpret this in laymans terms? I'm not that much of a mechanic. and am learning as I go. I can do the basics oil, filter changes brakes , that kind of thing. but I look at messing with the fuel injection /electrical system as  heart/ neurosurgery

thanks!

 
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TheMint

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just a quick note to tell you guys thanks so much.. I wrapped my lil pea brain around this and fixed it all by myself!!!!!! soo happy to be driving the Beast again. thank you again!

 
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TheMint

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okay well, so it didn't work so well.. replaced the iac, cranked right over went for a  test drive, got up yesterday am and pffft. nope no start.. now sounding like not enough juice to crank the engine over.

checked codes and now I have 21 (ect sensor), and 24IAT/VAT sensor. along with 63 still I'm starting to wonder if its an electrical problem now..... you guys still rock~

 
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miesk5

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yo,

SHUCKS!

Can you test battery w/a voltmeter?

No-Load Test

  1. Connect Rotunda 88 Digital Multimeter 105-R0053 or equivalent to monitor engine speed.
  1. Connect the leads of Rotunda 73 Digital Multimeter 105-R0051 or equivalent across the battery terminals.
  1. Read the voltage (base voltage).
  1. Start the engine (6007).
  1. Run the engine at 1500 rpm with no electrical load.
  1. Read the voltage. The voltage should be in the range of 14.1 to 14.7 volts
Or pull batty and have it tested for flee @ local parts store

Did I mention the wiggle tests here or in our PMs?   Have some wiggle harnesses and wiring to connectors; beware of fan, belts, pulleys

Have then wiggle starter relay wiring, starter cables and grounds while having ign sw in start

 
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TheMint

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okay, any tests for when it wont run? cant get it started, sounds like it's not getting any spark. **** I dunno, but I may have an 88 bronco up for sale soon, I'm tired of my wife ******** about it.

 

miesk5

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yo, Pull batty and have it tested for free at NAPA, etc.

OK, so you now have a cranks, but will not start engine condition;

This looks complicated, but this is what a shop would do and charge $ for;

No Start and or Misfire, etc.  Distributor Mounted Ignition Control Module

http://troubleshootmyvehicle.com/ford/4.9L-5.0L-5.8L/how-to-troubleshoot-a-no-start-1

Borrow from NAPA with refundable deposit a spark tester; or make your own tester

GL!

 

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