Fuel Delivery Problem

[gypski]

I have an 87 BII. It quit running after replacing the fuel pump after it got to warm. ran code check and to 34 EGR Sensor and replaced it. Then......no fuel pressure. New fuel presssure regulator, relay and pump. Pump runs when key is turned on. Fuel to rail pump from rear pump but nothing to the injector rail and no pressure at the pressure check valve. disconnected and redid inertia switch. And I can hear the normal click when the pumps run when the key is turned on.

Also doing a static pressure test, when I grounded the fuel pump from fuel pump test connector on the self-test connector, the pump didn't run but I got clicking, and the ABS light is now staying on. Can the ABS sensor cause the fuel pump problem?????

Totally stumped? Thanks in advance for any help or suggestions.

 

[BroncoJoe19]

gypski,

when you turn the key on and hear clicking... you are probably hearing the fuel pump relay click, not the pump running.

The pump sound is different (kinda like a whir) and lasts a full second or two. I have never owned a two pump system and can be of limited assistance, but you need to check to make sure that you have proper power, and grounds to both of your pumps. Also, I am not sure if you have one, or two fuel pump relays, they are cheap to replace, and easy to check.

How to check a relay

http://broncozone.com/forums/index.php?s=&...ost&p=78605

 

[Seabronc]

In a two pump system, you have a low pressure pump in the tank and a high pressure pump in the fuel line. If either is failing, the system fails. If the low pressure pump fails there will be no fuel to pressurize by the high pressure pump. If the high pressure pump fails you don't have enough pressure at the rail.

Use a volt meter and check for 12V at both pumps. Make sure that the + and ground connections are good at both pumps. With a volt meter connected to a good ground, (preferably the battery - TERMINAL), check the + lead on each pump, (key on and in the RUN position, the + lead is usually yellow and the ground connection is black), If OK then check for 12V on the grounded side. If you have 12V on the side that is supposed too be grounded, the ground is bad. If you don't have 12V at the + terminal then move back to the inertia switch and so on.

For future trouble shooting, get yourself an EVTM. It is the single most helpful service manual you can get. To put it simple Chilton and Haynes books **** especially in the wiring diagram area and for other things they are only a Readers Digest version of the real thing. Both Service mnuals and EVTM manuals are usually available on eBay.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Ford-Truck-...d=p4506.c0.m245

Good luck,

>-

 

[andre]

1..at starter u got fuse link 18 ga

that the main power for pump

yes there two pump

there also fuel shut off switch under dash right of tranny ****

there a botton on it conect 2 wire color O/LB FROM LINK ..PK/BK TO PUMP

if u have aroud 12 volt on O/LB wire good

at fuel pump check voltage w volt meter not test light

check the pump under frame rail first

here how to make a real good load tester

take a head light as test light and check voltage whit volt meter

if it drop more then 10 volt o full batt ....bad conection

u can use same set up to check ground too

hope this help

b back check up see how u r doing

check fuse no 18 .....15 amp goig to low fuel and abs module

best of luck

 

[gypski]

Thanks all. I can hear the pump whirl besides the clicking. I can kneel down outside the driver's door and turn the key and hear the pump. Also, I did first try a pump from NAPA, and that pump put air pressure or vapor pressure in the rail, but when it ran, it could feel it vibrate on the floorboard. I took it back thinking it may be defective. Now I have a Carter pump from Shucks in it. And, I have been getting fuel to the pump, but its not getting past the pump and even to the filter.

I kept the negative battery cable off all night to see if that does anything with the ABS light that stays on since the test from the Fuel Pump Lead. And I am now not hearing the rear pump clicking. I'll check back in a couple of hours after I get fueled up myself.

Again thanks. I think I've done most except drop testing the pump, and I don't think I have the equp to do that.

 

[gypski]

I just went and reconnected the negative battery cable, and apparently the positive ran the battery down during the night. Anyway, I hooked up a battery jumper to get some power, and the ABS Light no longer stays on; and the rail pump runs; and I hear the inertia switch or possibly the relay since the sound comes from the passenger side and I have the hood up, and I'm inside the vehicle, and the last click I hear is when the ABS light goes off (probably the ABS self-test). Still no fuel to the fuel rail and the KAM Memory has to be wiped out, and can't relearn anything until it runs.

I have some one coming tomorrow with the expertise that I lack, and most of what was said here I have tried along with the fuel pressure static testing steps printed out from autozone. Everything concerning the pump seems to check out except for that ABS and that could be where the short is.

If anyone can offer anything more in the mean time, I'll check back.

Least wise, when it gets running again, it should do fine with the new pump, fuel pressure reg, relay and what ever gets it going again. Its all been put on a rebuilt motor with less the 10k +- on it and with gas the way it is, it should pay for itself in the long run. I intend to drive this Bronco until it dies and its totally impossible to get it running again. Thanks again.

BTW, all the parts being replaced are the original so that at least says something about some Ford parts lasting 20+ years before going.

 

[Seabronc]

I just went and reconnected the negative battery cable, and apparently the positive ran the battery down during the night. Anyway, I hooked up a battery jumper to get some power, and the ABS Light no longer stays on; and the rail pump runs; and I hear the inertia switch or possibly the relay since the sound comes from the passenger side and I have the hood up, and I'm inside the vehicle, and the last click I hear is when the ABS light goes off (probably the ABS self-test). Still no fuel to the fuel rail and the KAM Memory has to be wiped out, and can't relearn anything until it runs.
I have some one coming tomorrow with the expertise that I lack, and most of what was said here I have tried along with the fuel pressure static testing steps printed out from autozone. Everything concerning the pump seems to check out except for that ABS and that could be where the short is.

If anyone can offer anything more in the mean time, I'll check back.

Least wise, when it gets running again, it should do fine with the new pump, fuel pressure reg, relay and what ever gets it going again. Its all been put on a rebuilt motor with less the 10k +- on it and with gas the way it is, it should pay for itself in the long run. I intend to drive this Bronco until it dies and its totally impossible to get it running again. Thanks again.

BTW, all the parts being replaced are the original so that at least says something about some Ford parts lasting 20+ years before going.

Did you ceck the low pressure tank pump? You will NOT get pressure to the rail unless it is working. You may still get some gas to the high pressure pump even if the tank pump is not working but it will not be enough to supply the demand and allow the high presure pump to do it's thing.

Also another possibility is a clogged fuel line from the high pressure pump to the rail. Have you disconnected it and tried blowing it out?

>-

 

[BroncoJoe19]

You said...

I just went and reconnected the negative battery cable, and apparently the positive ran the battery down during the night.

IF one pole of the battery is not connected. No matter where the short is (unless it is in the battery itself) it will not cause the battery to run down. IF it ran down during the course of the night, you have a bad battery that is not holding a charge.

joe