yo WAR HORSE
WELCOME TO THE ZONE!
Good that you got it running and saved it from being a Yard Queen.
Exhaust Color Diagnosis; Smoke, White, Blue or Black, General
Source: @
http://www.freeasestudyguides.com/exhaust-color.html
Blue/Gray Smoke: Bluish gray exhaust smoke is an indication of oil burning in the combustion chamber. These are possible symptoms and causes:
Valve Seals: Leaking valve seals will cause blue/gray smoke at startup because oil leaks past the seals into the cylinder after the engine turned off.
Valve Guides: Excessive clearance between the valve stem and the valve guide will allow oil to leak past the gap into the cylinder.
Piston Rings: Worn or damaged piston rings will cause blow by resulting in blue/gray smoke.
Worn Cylinder Walls: Worn cylinder walls cause blow by resulting in blue/gray smoke.
PCV System: A stuck closed PCV system will cause excessive crankcase pressure resulting in blue/gray smoke exiting the tailpipe
Black Smoke: Black exhaust smoke is an indication of rich fuel condition. These are possible causes:
Fuel Injectors: A leaking fuel injector will cause a rich fuel condition.
Fuel Pressure Regulator: A stuck closed fuel pressure regulator will cause a rich fuel condition.
Fuel Return: A restricted fuel return line will cause a rich fuel condition.
.,,,,
White/Gray Smoke: White exhaust smoke is an indication that coolant is burning in the combustion chamber. These are possible causes:
Cylinder Head: A crack in the cylinder head (around the coolant jacket) will cause coolant to enter the combustion chamber.
Engine Block: A crack in the deck of an engine block near the coolant jacket will cause coolant to enter the combustion chamber.
Head Gasket: A damaged or blown head gasket will cause coolant to enter the combustion chamber resulting in white/gray smoke coming from the tailpipe.
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a TIP FOR Fuel Gauge Sender and/or Pump Replacement w/out dropping Tank; some Cut-out a section of the cargo area floor pam;
Cut-out Panel Fabrication for Fuel Pump/Level Sender Replacement in an 83
Source: by Seabronc (Rosie, Fred W) at Ford Bronco Zone Forums
http://broncozone.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=12329
Patch Panel, 48in. x 16in. for 80-96 Bronco & F Series; $35.00 as of June 2011
Source: by our SPONSOR, Jeff's Bronco Graveyard
http://broncograveyard.com/bronco/i-34094-rear-bed-patch-panel-48in-x-16in-.html
$35.00
Fuel Level & Sender
Testing; "...the little resistive strip in them gets bad and causes erratic readings. Also, while you are at replacing it, check out the connector to make sure the ground is good back to the battery. Do a resistance check from the black lead to the battery (-) post. If is is more than a couple of ohms, run a new ground lead to it..."
Source: by Seabronc (Rosie, Fred W) at Ford Bronco Zone Forums
Testing in an 78-86; "There is a yellow wire with a white tracer coming off the fuel pump to the gauge. The easiest way to ck the gauge and wiring is to disconnect the y/w wire and ground the wire on the dash side of the wire. If you can slide your hand up on top of the tank and disconnect the pump and ground out the y/w wire turn the key on and watch the gauge if the gauge goes up the sender in the tank is bad, if youre going to replace the sender you may as well put a pump in it..."
Source: by unknown via miesk5
sOME
Testing in an 78-86; "...Ground the Y/Wh wire at the fuel tank, turn the key to RUN, and observe the gauge. If it pegs FULL, the sender is bad inside the tank. If it stays at EMPTY, it's an electrical fault, probably in the cluster, or its connector..."
Source: by Steve
Wiring Diagram in an 86 5.0
Source: by Ryan M (FireGuy50) at
http://web.archive.org/web/20101201005123/http://fordfuelinjection.com/files/bronco_1986_103.gif
and for more components;
Wiring Diagram in an 86
Source: by Xris at
Lessons Learned
Source: by digitalbill (Bill Crozier)
Please keep in mind that this was all done to a 1992 Bronco
1: If you decide to put in a cheap fuel pump, you are probably going to have to replace it within a year. Either spend the extra money on a really good one or, cut an access door in the bed.
2: Get the right tools for the job. Fuel line removal tools are very cheap and will save you hours of aggravation
3: If you decide to cut an access door, see if you can borrow a 110V angle grinder or an air operated one (if you have access).
I used my 18V ryobi and while it worked fine with the cutoff wheel, I have three batteries and, starting at full charge on all three, they all had to go back on the charger twice before I was finished cutting.
4: Speaking of cutting.. .I got the steps (measurements and stuff) from Steve83 site on SuperMotors site. It looked like he used a sawsall but he also has a body lift. I have the stock lift so I was scared to go too deep. I was right. the vent line is about 1 inch (if that) from the bottom of the bed. I didn't hit it but, that would have sucked.
5: Safety first. I kept a garden hose stuffed up on the top of the tank with it on "mist" to keep everything wet. I don't know if it helped or not but, no fires and there were LOTS of sparks. Eye protection goes without saying...
6: Taking the retaining ring off is easy.
Putting it back on? Not so much. I bent the "starter" tabs at just a little bit of a downward angle with needle nose plyers and it made putting it back on quite easy.
7: I do not have a patch panel yet so, I cut three sides of the access panel and then just "scored" the 4th side (drivers side) so I could open it up like a door. It is currently closed and duct tape in on the edges until I can get a proper cover for it.
8: Also, if you read Steve83's writeup, he mentioned that the edges are sharp. let me clairify.
YOU WILL GET CUT!!!!!!! Either wear gloves or file down the edges BEFORE screwing with the pump itself.
AND JUST IN CASE OTHER GAUGES ARE IFFY;
Instrument Voltage Regulator (IVR) in 78-86; "...The IVR can fail two different ways. it will quit working altogether, thus none of the gauges will work. Or two, it will stick, and the gauges will peg to the extreme right, then it will unstick and fall back to normal. The IVR is a pulse type. The voltage is regulated by how fast the pulses are. When it sticks, it doesn't pulse, etc... Try tapping on it. Make sure the cluster ground is in good shape. If the IVR isn't grounded or has an intermittant ground, it wont pulse like it should either. Rebuild it, see http://www.turbocoupe.org/techinfo/ivr/IVR.htmold'>http://www.turbocoupe.org/techinfo/ivr/IVR.htmold or, Suggest getting one from a Yard; Since there are about 12 different types, make sure to take the old one with you; Fits: 1971/86 F100/350; 1971/91 Econoline; 1978/86 Bronco; 1977/79 LTD II/Ranchero/Cougar/Thunderbird without Tachometer; 1972/76 Thunderbird/Continental Mark IV; 1971/72 LTD/Mercury Marquis for MOTORCRAFT Part # GR513 (D1AF10804AA, D1AZ10804A)..."
Source: by miesk5
Instrument Voltage Regulator (IVR) Pin-Out pic in 78-86;
Source: by James J at
http://www.turbocoupe.org/techinfo/ivr/clster3a.jpg
Instrument Voltage Regulator (IVR) Repair in 78-86; "...Back in the early 60's when Ford originally decided to go to a 5 volt system for the instruments the electrical engineers were faced with the problem of providing the guages with 5 volts. To make a true voltage regulator with 60's era parts would have been extremely expensive and the final product would have been about the size of a bread box. No good for their purposes. But since the guages are a hot wire design that doesn't respond very quickly to changes, the engineers were able to fool the guages into thinking that they had 5 volts by pulsing 12 volts to the guages. With the technology that is now avalible the IVR can be replaced with solid state components that supply a true 5 volts to the guages and put a stop to the wild dance of the guages..." READ MORE
Source: by James J at http://www.turbocoupe.org/techinfo/ivr/IVR.htmold
GL!
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