exhaust cut outs

[Billy Toppless]

any body ever run these on there ride??

wondering if its worth the money and time

becuz im gonna be redoing my exhaust and putting on Hedman Headers to dual super 44's and i love the sound of open headers

http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?part=mrg-5424

 

[89eddie89]

For the exhaust cut outs, once headers are added, is it possible to run them on a flomaster 40??

^^ this is where I do really know much about Broncos....

:-/

 

[Billy Toppless]

For the exhaust cut outs, once headers are added, is it possible to run them on a flomaster 40??

^^ this is where I do really know much about Broncos....

:-/

the cuts outs go anywhere on the pipe but b4 the mufflers

im gonna run mine stright outta the headers then in to the mufflers

the point of the cut outs is to be able to run open headers with a flick of a switch

so you need to but them b4 ur mufflers or ur wasting ur money

there shaped like a y pipe theres 3 open ends

one for the pipe coming from the headers, on for the pipe that goes to ur muffler then out the the exit points and the open that remains open for when u switch it to the "open header' postion.

so yes u can run cut outs with the 40 series or any brand of muffler

they just need to be added to the pipe anywhere b4 the mufflers

 

[Broncobill78]

Unless you dump some big bux on some with a solenoid there ain't gonna be any switch flicking. They use a cable similar to a manual choke only heavier & you'll need to attach it very securely, use a backing plate or something where you mount it (unless you're fortunate enuf to have a 66-79 in which case you have the classic & timeless all-metal dash) because you need to use some force when opening & closing it and you'll also need to keep it lubricated because after they heat-cycle enough times the butterfly gets hard to open/close. If you're installing headers then the easy way to do it is to just have them welded onto a set of collectors and be done with it. That way if/when you change it or get rid of them all you have to do is get a new set of collectors.

I'm not really sure just *where* you'd use them though. You won't get very far running them on the street and while you *could* open them up off-road it's a great way to attract a lot of unwanted attention (especially if you're on public land). I've run them on cars I took to the track and also on the 78/79's that I ran competatively. It's one thing to open them up for a few passes thru the mud but trail riding all day like that would be irritating as ****. If there are other people using the same trail it's a good way to get a wrench thru the windshield. How do *you* like it when the guy next door uncorks his Harley and then spends 3 or 4 hrs revving it ? Behavior like that usually leads to flaming bags of dog$hit on the doorstep. I know that's what *someone* did to the Harley fan in my last neighborhood, after the 3rd bag he trailered the bike somewhere else & got a lot more neighborly with his hobbies. Unless you're going to compete with the truck at some point later on chances are that you'll install them, open them a few times then get a ticket or two and decide that they aren't quite as much fun as you'd hoped /emoticons/[email protected] 2x" width="20" height="20" /> While they certainly WILL attract people's attention you have to remember that there's *good* attention and *bad* attention. Unless you're participating in an event of some sort open headers don't generallt attract the kind of attention that you're going to want.

 

[89eddie89]

So could I run the cut outs without aftermarket headers??

 

[Broncobill78]

Sure, you can run them with bone stock exhaust if that's what turns your propeller, you'll have to weld them in somewhere but there's no reason you can't. I *suppose* if you were going to do it at all the best place to cut them in would be upsteam of the cats & mufflers, somewhere on the Y-pipe before it necks down to a single pipe.

 

[Billy Toppless]

.

 

[89eddie89]

any body ever run these on there ride??wondering if its worth the money and time

becuz im gonna be redoing my exhaust and putting on Hedman Headers to dual super 44's and i love the sound of open headers

http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?part=mrg-5424

^^ So on that link, does everything come with the cutouts that I need??

 

[Broncobill78]

???? It comes with the cutout and the control cable. What else is there ? Don't lose track of the fact that it's a single. If you have dual exhaust you'll need two of them. Also, it's cast iron so you can't weld it in and there's no way to use clamps with something like that so you'll need a torch, flux & brazing rods to install it. Have at it man, knock yourself out.

 

[Billy Toppless]

???? It comes with the cutout and the control cable. What else is there ? Don't lose track of the fact that it's a single. If you have dual exhaust you'll need two of them. Also, it's cast iron so you can't weld it in and there's no way to use clamps with something like that so you'll need a torch, flux & brazing rods to install it. Have at it man, knock yourself out.

hmm shit...

how do u braze? lol

 

[Broncobill78]

hmm shit...how do u braze? lol

Flux your parts, assemble them & then heat with a torch (using a rosebud) until the brass brazing rod melts & flows easily. It's no big deal, I can show you (just gotta find the torch). The only trick to it is to keep the whole assembly hot enough, otherwise the rod material wants to ball up and doesn't flow, you want it to behave just like solder only since you're using brass so it has to be a whole lot hotter.

You can't weld cast iron and since the design won't allow you to clamp it about the only option left is to braze it. A brazed joint is plenty strong enuf for exhaust components and they won't get anywhere close to being hot enough to disturb the joint.

 

[Billy Toppless]

Flux your parts, assemble them & then heat with a torch (using a rosebud) until the brass brazing rod melts & flows easily. It's no big deal, I can show you (just gotta find the torch). The only trick to it is to keep the whole assembly hot enough, otherwise the rod material wants to ball up and doesn't flow, you want it to behave just like solder only since you're using brass so it has to be a whole lot hotter.
You can't weld cast iron and since the design won't allow you to clamp it about the only option left is to braze it. A brazed joint is plenty strong enuf for exhaust components and they won't get anywhere close to being hot enough to disturb the joint.

sounds like another learning experience

lol

i gotta find me a semi-cheap pipe bender, my college shop class nor my high school shop class dont have one

 

[89eddie89]

Man dang, there is more trouble to it than you woulda thought

haha

/emoticons/[email protected] 2x" width="20" height="20" />

 

[Broncobill78]

sounds like another learning experiencelol

i gotta find me a semi-cheap pipe bender, my college shop class nor my high school shop class dont have one

Harbor Freight has some. We'll take a ride over there sometime. I have a few more things I need. Just picked up a nice HVLP paint gun on sale. Thay have a big sidewalk sale coming up in a wk or so. I'm not big on their hand tools (I prefer Snap-on & Craftsman for those. Speaking of which I need to hit a Sears to replace my flex-had 1/2" ratchet) but they're pretty good for just about everything else. It's not stuff I'd buy for a real shop where stuff gets used hard everyday but for the kind of work *we* do where you'd only use something a few times a year they're pretty good.

 

[Broncobill78]

Man dang, there is more trouble to it than you woulda thought
haha

/emoticons/[email protected] 2x" width="20" height="20" />

You're right, it's not a simple bolt-in. Due to the design of the things cast iron is the best choice for material, unfortunately you can't weld it (well, you sorta can but it's an involved process and you're not always happy with the result) and you can't use clamps. Cut-out's are really designed for weekend warriors who have cars/trucks that they compete with but still need to drive on the street (either daily or just back-n-forth to the track. Some classes *require* your ride to be registered & inspected if you want to race). While you DON'T need mad skills to install them you DO need a fairly well equpied shop and knowledge of how to weld, cut & braze. Now back when dinasours ruled the earth and *I* was in Jr.High we learned how to braze in 8th grade metal shop. I've got a case of ice cold beer for anyone who can give me the name of a Jr.High that teaches that TODAY. The reality of the deal is that you either need to have the tools and the knowledge OR you need to be able to simply throw enough Benjamins at a shop willing to do the work for you. Depending on where you live it might well be hard to find a shop willing to install something that that because it will effectively bypass the converters and the fines for a shop getting caught doing that sort of thing are enuf to ruin most independant guys so they just don't touch that sort of work.

While I honestly think it's a foolish idea for anyone who DOESN'T drive their truck in competition, who am *I* to interdict the free exchange of information ? If you're really into it shoot me a PM and I'll walk you thru the whole thing. If you're like Billy and close enuf then bring it over and I'll do it WITH you. Actually HAVING the knowledge is never a bad thing, it's what you DO with it that counts.

 

[Billy Toppless]

You're right, it's not a simple bolt-in. Due to the design of the things cast iron is the best choice for material, unfortunately you can't weld it (well, you sorta can but it's an involved process and you're not always happy with the result) and you can't use clamps. Cut-out's are really designed for weekend warriors who have cars/trucks that they compete with but still need to drive on the street (either daily or just back-n-forth to the track. Some classes *require* your ride to be registered & inspected if you want to race). While you DON'T need mad skills to install them you DO need a fairly well equpied shop and knowledge of how to weld, cut & braze. Now back when dinasours ruled the earth and *I* was in Jr.High we learned how to braze in 8th grade metal shop. I've got a case of ice cold beer for anyone who can give me the name of a Jr.High that teaches that TODAY. The reality of the deal is that you either need to have the tools and the knowledge OR you need to be able to simply throw enough Benjamins at a shop willing to do the work for you. Depending on where you live it might well be hard to find a shop willing to install something that that because it will effectively bypass the converters and the fines for a shop getting caught doing that sort of thing are enuf to ruin most independant guys so they just don't touch that sort of work.
While I honestly think it's a foolish idea for anyone who DOESN'T drive their truck in competition, who am *I* to interdict the free exchange of information ? If you're really into it shoot me a PM and I'll walk you thru the whole thing. If you're like Billy and close enuf then bring it over and I'll do it WITH you. Actually HAVING the knowledge is never a bad thing, it's what you DO with it that counts.

i really like the sound of the open headers and i would mostly use them at a show or off road

people in my neighborhood are pretty cool with load motors then like 5 of us on my street alone that rebuild cars or have load motorcycles

i found this type of cut out and there stanless steel but im confused how they work cuz i dot see any kinda butterfly type value that closes the main exhults off plus it involves crawing under neath the truck and on bolting the wing nuts every time u wanna run them open

would be kinda annyoing after a while but if im only using them like once a month then mayb it would be that bad of an idea

heres the link

http://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS/555/30752/10002/-1

 

[Broncobill78]

"KINDA" annoying ? yeah, ok. Watch your neighbors, if you see any of them following their dog around & carrying a small brown paper bag while they keep looking over at you & your truck then you have a problem.

As far as the show thing goes, well I'm not sure what to say. Once you've been around awhile you start to understand the difference between engines. There's a BIG difference between the sound of an engine that's been properly built, has an intake, cam & exhaust and one that's simply been uncorked. I can play Barry Manilow records *really, really* loud but that doesn't make it good music.

I think I've said about as much on this topic as I'm going to. Things that I thought were really cool and neat when I was 18 usually turned out to be pretty different later on. I think there's maybe a*reason* that none of the Mods or anyone *else* who's been there & done that hasn't had anything to say about this. Sometimes it's best to just let people learn on their own because telling them anything other than what they want to hear just doesn't get you anywhere.

The information is out there for anyone who wants to chase it down. Learn what you want & have a great time with it, let us know how it all works out.