Engine jolting prop and or trans prob

[famousguy_fsas]

So on this one im not to sure so im just fonna talk it out and see if any of u make anything out of it haha.

So one I feel like my direct drive clutch engine brakes my truck in third gear way to hard. When its doimg that if I give it gas it slaps really really hard as if there is alot of slop somewhere. When it causes the engine braking I can smell unburt fuel.

Next prob that I cant figure out if its related or not. Which its starting to get really bad so im thinking maybe its not. But when crusing used to be mostly on freeway but now anywhere. When cruising and im giving it only just enough gas to stay at speed it will also engine brake on me but almost as if its dying. And as soon as it kicks to second gear its back to normal.

Another thing that the previous paragraph started off as haha is just driving the engine or something will just choke up on me for a quick half sec and ill smell fuel again and it will go back to normal. Almost the same engine braking slaping sensation I described before but instead of continuous its just brief. And now its starting to do it more and more consecutavly as it warms up.

Heeeelp. Recent history. Just rebuilt top half of motor. Replaced plugs. Coil. Rebuilt distributor. New tfi moduel. Rebuilt rear end. Did this before re build and still does it. And now is getting worse.

86 302 efi

 

[Bebop Man]

In my '86 I had a bad wire coming off the engine computer harness. the insulation was melted and shorting against the block on the front of the firewall. I'd be going down the road and the engine would just die, but the fuel pump and other items would still run. if I hit a bump in the road, or downshift, there would be just enough motion to shift the wire, and I could start the engine again. Once I found the right wire and replaced it, everything started working just fine.

 

[miesk5]

yo,

I agree w/Bebop on that test, Ford calls it a "Wiggle Test"

But since you had it before all the engine work, it may be one or 2 sensore or actuators, or ign item

I see from your previous posts here that you replaced TFI module twie?

Original Module (maybe it was original from Ford since new?) went bad, then;

New module turned out bad

3rd module was ok

What Brand name is the 3rd TFI module?

BUT, do a Self Test by our bro-in-grease here, BroncoJoe19 @ http://broncozone.com/topic/14269-code-reader/page__pid__74587__mode__threaded

heat the engine up; idle until temp gauge is in normal range you usually see

and wwhen it warms up; shift thru all gears incl Reverse anyway.

Then turn off all accessories/lights, etc.

Make sure A/C is off and transmission is in Park (automatic)

Do Key On Engine Off (KOEO) portion first.

Look Codes up in my broncolinks.com site using the new Search function if in a hurry today.

And Post em here according to

KOEO

& KOER

 

[famousguy_fsas]

I have done the wiggle test a little. I need to get in deeper and try it. And ya I replaced tfi twice. The one I have on there now is a motocraft used one that came with the rebuilt distributor that came off my buddies runnimg 86 that he parted out. It seems to do it mostly when hot so im leaning more twards not a ground in the system. But its hard to say as its seeming to be 75% consistent with movement like bumps and speed. Ill be driving more today and ill see. As for codes I was wondering. I have a like 4000$ snap on scanner. Can I eead codes with that. Well its not mine but at my work. Thank u

 

[miesk5]

yo,

I don't know if that Snap-On will do a Selft Test or check for Codes;

use the Self Test by our bro-in-grease here, BroncoJoe19 @ http://broncozone.com/topic/14269-code-reader/page__pid__74587__mode__threaded

click on the above URL

also, altho not for your year (but ya never know, right??)

Hazard Stumble TSB 88-16-16 for 87-88 Bronco & F Series; "...ISSUE: An engine miss or stumble when the headlamp hi-beams, hazard, stop or turn signals are turned "ON/OFF" may be caused by a voltage spike. A voltage spike may be induced into the EEC IV ignition system and read by the EEC IV processor as a PIP signal. This creates false timing information resulting in the miss or stumble. Vehicles that are used to pull trailers (electrical brake equipped) may have similar symptoms. ACTION: To correct this, install a ground strap between the battery negative (-) terminal and the radiator support bracket using existing attaching hardware or a #10 sheet metal *****..."

EEC Ground Location pic in an 89; "...Those wires eventually connect back to the EEC case (which is grounded) and the pins on the connector that need to be grounded...but then again every ground connects to each other on a Bronco..."

http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/110836/fullsize/img_0346.jpg

 

[Bebop Man]

I had both issues at the same time, TFI's and a wonky harness. The TFI would die when it got too hot, and then the harness would fail, and stop me dead, too. I used a bit of bailing wire to run from just above a bracket on the drivers side exhaust manifold to the hold-down latch of the brake-fluid reservoir, and tie the harness to that, to keep it away from the engine. The other wire was behind the engine, between the engine and firewall, and that was re-run so it was up there higher, near the washer-fluid lines.

 

[famousguy_fsas]

Thank u. I will try the self tests tomorrow when im off. As for the light thimg its not that but thank u.

I also wanted to be clear that my bronc isnt dying. Its just hickuping for a quick half second. Almost as if I turned the key off then back on as fast as I could

 

[famousguy_fsas]

Ok its been hecktic lately so no codes yet. But two things. It for sure does it mostly when hot out. And possible when bumpy. What could cause the engine to basically jolt like that when hot and possibly bumpy. tfi again?

Another hypothetical q. Is there anything in the trans I mean anything that could cause the engine to do that and smell of gas?

 

[miesk5]

yo,

We'll have you more hectic by guessing at a few possible causes that may not pan out.

Do the Code Self Test and let us know.

But since you asked,

If TFI is failing from heat, can get DYC 14 & 18; will cause: stalling, or engine shut-down or sputtering when hot but will operate normally after engine (TFI) cool-down. or a wire grounding out.

DTC 211 indicates two successive erratic Profile Ignition Pickup (PIP) pulses occurred, resulting in a possible engine miss or stall. Possible causes: Loose wires/connectors. Arcing secondary ignition components (coil, cap, rotor, wires, plugs, etc.). On-board transmitter (2-way radio).*

Misfiring, Rough Idle, Surge, & Ping-Knock Symptoms, due to a Magnetized Shutter Wheel, (Bronco & all Fords w/EEC IV & TFI); "...Inside the TFI distributor is a Hall-Effect sensor that provides an RPM and POSITION signal to the Ignition module and ECM for fuel and ignition control. Mounted to the distributor shaft is a "shutter-wheel" that passes through the Hall-Effect sensor. The slots or windows cut in the shutter-wheel are what makes the Hall-Effect sensor switch on/off to create the signal it sends out. The shutter-wheel is supposed to be a piece of "dead" steel but can become magnetized. A magnetized wheel can cause very erratic operation of the Hall-Effect and resulting erratic output signal. The Test: There are a couple of ways to check for this condition. One is to simply pull off the distributor cap and see if something steel will "stick" to the shutter-wheel. Make sure that whatever you are using to check the wheel with isn't magnetized itself. A more accurate method would be to watch the wave-form on the "SPOUT" wire with a Vantage or Lab-Scope. The SPOUT is the wire with the connector in it that you unplug to set ignition timing. Monitor the wave-pattern on the SPOUT with the timing-connector in. If there is anything erratic about the wave-form, unplug the timing connector and re-check the wave-form. If the pattern "cleans up" all of a sudden, chances are good that you have a magnetized shutter-wheel. The Fix: Most shutter-wheels can be removed from the distributor shaft with a couple of screws. Everybody seems to have their own way of de-magnetizing the wheels but good success has been had with bulk audio-tape erasers or by placing the wheel in an engine parts cleaning oven and baking it. That last one sounds weird but it works..." Scroll down Source: by snapon.com via archive.org

I haven't been able to completely proof-read & validate the entire article below;

No Start and or Misfire, etc.; Thick Film Ignition (TFI) Testing, Overview & Diagrams, Distributor Mounted Ignition Control Module (ICM); "...Part I; In This Fast Test you'll be able to pinpoint the problem to the Ignition Control Module or the Ignition Coil or the Profile Ignition Pickup Sensor (PIP Sensor) in four easy test steps. This test will only help you in a Cranks but Does Not Start Condition. So then, before starting the tests, it's critical that you have checked and verified that there's NO SPARK present at the Ignition Coil. Why? Well, because if the Ignition Coil is sparking, it would be a clear indication that it and the Ignition Coil and the Crankshaft Position Sensor (PIP Sensor) are working. This article applies to both the Gray colored Ignition Control Module and the Black colored Ignition Control Module. The Gray colored Ignition Control Module is called the Push Start Module and the Black colored Ignition Control Module is called the Computer Controlled Dwell Module. These ignition control modules are not interchangeable. If you need the tests for the Ford Fender Mounted Ignition Control Module (ICM), click here. How Does the Ignition Control Module Work? Here's a little background information to help you diagnose this no spark condition. In a nutshell, when the system is working properly, at CRANK-UP and at all engine speeds, the Ignition Control Module controls the Ignition Coil. How? This is primarily done thru' the Profile Ignition Pickup Sensor Signal which is received by the Ignition Control Module (and also the ECM). The Ignition Control Module (ICM) upon receiving this signal, starts switching the Ignition Coil's Ground On and Off. As you may already know, it's this action that makes the Ignition Coil spark away. The Profile Ignition Pickup Sensor signal (more commonly called the PIP Signal) is critical for the Ignition Control Module to start sparking the Ignition Coil at START UP and at all engine speeds. The Profile Ignition Pickup Sensor is a Hall Effect type Crankshaft Position Sensor and produces a digital (On/Off) signal that can be seen with an LED or an oscilloscope. On an oscilloscope, it produces a digital square waveform. This sensor is located in the Distributor. What Tools do I Need for the Ignition Module Test? There are several ways to test this Ignition Control Module. An oscilloscope is the best way to check all of the input and output signals but it's not the only way. I'll show you just how. Anyway, if you have access to an oscilloscope, I have included photos of what the waveforms should look like. Whether you use a multimeter or an Oscilloscope, you'll be able to successfully diagnose this NO START CONDITION! So, here's the basic list: An LED Light. Test Light. Multimeter. A cheapie one will do. Repair Manual. For whatever other information this article does not cover. Helper. To help you crank the engine while you observe the LED light (or Test Light or Multimeter). By the way, you don't need an Automotive Scan Tool for any of these tests. We'll first check for the basics like Battery voltage and Engine Ground to the Ignition Control Module. Then we'll test the Ignition Coil Switching Signal that the Module generates in action and from the results you get you'll be able to pinpoint the problem to the Ignition Control Module (ICM) or the Ignition Coil or the Profile Ignition Pickup (PIP) Sensor or completely eliminate these as the cause of the No Start Condition. IMPORTANT- All of the tests are ON CAR TESTS, do not remove the Ignition Control Module Assembly from the vehicle (all of the figures show the Module Assembly off of the vehicle but this is just for illustration purposes only). Also, the Battery must be in a fully charged condition for all tests in this article. And lastly, this Fast Test only tests for a NO SPARK / No Start Condition. TEST INFO Circuit Descriptions; Here are brief descriptions of the circuits that we'll be testing. You'll notice that there are no wire color descriptions. This is intentional. The color of the wires in the illustration will not match the ones on your vehicle. The good news is that no matter what color the wires are (on the vehicle), the circuit descriptions DO NOT CHANGE. You will be able to successfully diagnose this NO START CONDITION with this information. IMPORTANT- It will be necessary to test some of these circuits while the engine is being cranked. Be careful, use common sense and take all necessary safety precautions. Ignition Control Module Connector; 1- Profile Ignition Pickup (PIP) Signal. 2- Spout. 3- 12 V at START. 4- 12 Volts (gray module) or IDM circuit (black module). 5- Ignition Coil Control Signal. 6- Ground. TEST 1 Checking for Power (12 V); We'll begin by checking that the Ignition Control Module is receiving 12 volts. I recommend using a wire piercing probe to accomplish all of the tests in this article. (click here to see a picture of this tool). Whatever method you use, the key here is to be careful. Remember to use common sense and take all safety precautions . IMPORTANT- The Ignition Coil, Ignition Control Module and the PIP Sensor receive 12 Volts from the same circuit. So if you test one, you test the others. 1 Put the multimeter in VOLTS DC mode. 2 It's not necessary to disconnect the Ignition Control Module (ICM). You'll probe the number 4 circuit of the Ignition Control Module Connector. 3 With the RED multimeter test lead and a suitable tool, probe the number 4 circuit wire of the Connector. 4 With the BLACK lead of the multimeter probe the BATT (-) NEGATIVE terminal. 5 Turn Key On with the Engine Off. Your Multimeter should register 12 Volts DC. CASE 1 If the Multimeter registered 12 Volts DC, All is good in the neighborhood, GO TO TEST 2. CASE 2 If the Multimeter DID NOT register 12 Volts DC, You must find out why you're missing this voltage. Without this voltage the Module, Ignition Coil, and the PIP Sensor will not work. TEST 2 Testing the Ground Circuit; Here we'll check that the Ignition Control Module (ICM) is receiving a good GROUND. This is done thru' the number 6 circuit of the Igntion Module Connector. 1 Put the multimeter in VOLTS DC mode. 2. With the BLACK multimeter test lead and a wire piercing probe, probe the Ignition Module Connector's number 6 circuit wire. 3 With the RED lead of the multimeter probe the BATT (+) POSITIVE terminal. Your Multimeter should register 12 Volts DC. CASE 1 If the Multimeter registered 12 Volts DC, All is good in the neighborhood, GO TO TEST 3. CASE 2 If the Multimeter DID NOT register 12 Volts DC, This means there is open in this circuit. Without this ground the Ignition Module will not function. Repair the circuit. EST 3 Ignition Coil Switching Signal; Now that you have verified the basics, in this test you're gonna' verify that the Ignition Control Module (ICM) is activating the Ignition Coil. Here you're going to use an LED test tool. Click here for a picture of this tool and how to make it. You can also use a Test Light for this test. Use an appropriate tool to pierce the wire and attach the LED test tool (to this tool). Be careful and use all necessary precautions. By the way, in case you want to see a more specific Ford Ignition Coil test, I’ve written one for troubleshootmyvehicle.com and you can see it here: Ford Ignition Coil Test. 1 Connect the RED wire of the LED to the Battery Positive Terminal. 2 Connect the BLACK wire of the LED to the number 5 circuit of the Ignition Control Module Connector 3 Have an assistant crank the engine. the LED test tool (or Test Light) should blink on and off as the engine is being cranked. Did this occur? CASE 1 The LED Light blinked On and Off as the engine was cranking, This means that the Ignition Control Module is triggering the Ignition Coil. So then, the Ignition Control Module is good and can been eliminated as the cause of the NO START condition. By a process of elimination, we can assume that the Ignition Coil is faulty and is the source of the NO START condition. Replace the Ignition Coil. CASE 2 The LED Light DID NOT blink On and Off as the engine was cranking, Re-check all of your connections and retry the test again. If still no light pulses on the test LED, GO TO TEST 4. TEST 4 Testing the PIP Signal; Here we'll check that the Profile Ignition Pickup Sensor (PIP) is being received by the Ignition Control Module (ICM). The PIP Signal is just Ford’s name for the Crankshaft Position Sensor Signal. Now, in case you’re wondering... the PIP Sensor is located inside the Distributor. This will be achieved by using the same LED test tool. Click here for a picture of this LED tool and how to make it. Do not use a Test Light for this test; With a suitable tool and with the key in the Off position, pierce the number 1 circuit wire of the Ignition Control Module Connector. Connect the BLACK wire of LED to the tool that is piercing the wire. Connect the RED wire of the LED to the BATTERY (+) POSITIVE terminal. Have an assistant crank the engine while you observe the LED. The LED should start to blink on and off as the engine is cranked. Is the LED blinking on and off as the engine is cranked? CASE 1 If the LED blinked On and OFF as your helper cranked the engine The Ignition Control Module (ICM) is BAD. Replace the Ignition Control Module. Here’s why: As you’re already aware, the Ignition Control Module needs: 1.) power in the form of 12 Volts. 2.) It needs a good path to ground. 3.) It needs the PIP Signal to start creating the Switching Signal the Ignition Coil needs to start sparking.. So, up until this point (in the testing) you have verified that the module does have power, that it does have ground and that it’s not creating a Switching Signal for the Ignition Coil. In this step you have confirmed that the PIP Sensor is generating a PIP Signal (as indicated by a blinking LED light). So, if the Ign. Module is getting power, ground and the PIP Signal (as evidenced by the blinking LED) is has to create a Switching Signal... if it doesn’t, it’s fried. CASE 2 The LED DID NOT blink On and OFF as your helper cranked the engine If you have no pulses, recheck all connections. Try again. If you still have no pulses. The Profile Ignition Pickup Sensor (PIP) is BAD and the cause of this NO START condition. You’ll need to replace the PIP Sensor to solve the No Start No Spark Condition on your Ford (or Mercury or Lincoln) vehicle. As mentioned earlier, the Profile Ignition Pickup (PIP) Sensor is just a Crankshaft Position Sensor located inside the Distributor. This is the Sensor that tells the Ignition Control Module (ICM) when to start activating the Ignition Coil to start Sparking away. So, if this PIP Signal is missing (as indicated by the LED not blinking on and off), the Ignition Control Module will not function..." SEE Site for Diagrams

Source: by easyautodiagnostics.com

 

[famousguy_fsas]

Ok. Sorry this took so long but the snap on scanner did all possible tests and more. But results were this. I did the koeo and there were no codes. I did the koer and well ill put three sets of codes and explain each. I did this test three times to be sure which is why I have three sets haha. Two sets at reg operating temp. One when cold just cause

First is the main ones to worry as these are the ones that were constant for all normal operating tests. I did like 4 In a row and got these results. Codes as follows

TEST 3

code 41. Ego not switching, lean exhaust (bank 1)

code 34. Egr (evp) closed valve signal too high

code 13. Cant comtrol rpm during low rpm check

the next was test 2 the first of the reg temp tests

Code 34 again

Code 13 again

code 44. Thermactor air system not working

Now this test was a one off and only did it cause didnt want to wait while my truck warmed up. But just for fun this is what showes

Code 21. Temp sensor out of range

Code 25. No knock signal durring self test

And code 41 again

Ok so those are the results. Now I have access to all data as Im a light duty tech at a dealership. I looked into these codes and wow. If any of u have ever seen these u know what I mean. But do I really need to do all the pin point tests they say. I mean I will but do u recommend it.

Well ill keep a close eye on this and report back often thank u all for ur help and im looking forward to the input

 

[miesk5]

yo,

good!

So here it is;

DTC 41, 42, 91, 92, 136, 137,139, 144, 171, 172, 173, 175, 176, 177 & some Possible Causes for Rich & Lean HEGO The engine temperature must be greater than 50°F (10°C) to pass the KOEO Self-Test and greater than 180°F (82°C) to pass the KOER Self-Test. To accomplish this, the engine should be at normal operating temperature

Source: by Ryan M (Fireguy50) at fordfuelinjection.com

====

DTC 34 EGR voltage above closed limit - Failed sensor, carbon between EGR pintle valve and seat holding the valve off its seat. Remove the EGR valve and clean it with carbon remover. Prior to re-installing see if you can blow air through the ****** side of the EGR by mouth. the egr is not closing properly which can cause detonation. remove the egr and clean off any carbon built up on it with carb cleaner and a brush if necessary.

Source: by miesk5 at Ford Bronco Zone Forums

DTC 34; Next isn't listed by anyone for the 34 Code, but is a good test anyway to rule the EVR out & is a simple multimeter test; The EGR Vacuum Regulator (EVR) controls the opening and closing of the EGR valve. The EVR is an electromagnetic solenoid and should have between 20-70 ohms resistance between the pins. +12volts should be constant on one side from the EEC Relay, the computer controls the ground signal when EGR flow is needed. When the EGR Vacuum Regulator (EVR) is off, both ports vent slowly to atsmophere. To test it mechanically check to see if vacuum is present at the EGR valve with the electrical connector unplugged from the EVR. The top port should not have vacuum! Because that would open the EGR at the wrong times. With everything connected and the engine running ground out the pin 33 side. The EGR vavle should open and the engine RPM should change. Source: by miesk5 at Ford Bronco Zone Forums READ MORE

============

DTC 13 Cannot control RPM during ER Self-Test, low RPM & Possible Causes;

TB base idle off- Idle Air Control (IAC) Sludge; Poor Idle TSB 91-25-07 for 85-92 Bronco & F Series & many others; "...Hard cold starts, hesitation and stalls on initial start-up or during idle or decel may be caused by sludge in the throttle body and/or idle by-pass valve. Sludge deposits or oil film on the throttle body bore and plate or the idle air by-pass valve may cause one or more of the following conditions. Hard Cold Start, Stall On Initial Start-Up, Stall During Idle, Stall During Decel, Rough Idle, Rolling Idle, Hesitation During Acceleration. A new idle air by-pass service kit (F2PZ-9F939-A) is now available for service use to correct sludge contamination concerns of the throttle bore and plate only. It eliminates the need to clean the majority of past model throttle body applications. Cleaning is not required on sludge tolerant throttle body designs released for 1991 and newer model years..."

Source: by Ford via Steve83 (Steve, That dirty old truck) at http://www.supermotors.net/registry/media/724437idle

...

Idle air bypass valve dirty or bad -Overview & Testing; "First let me say this little thing has many names. But they all talk about the same item under the hood. Here all the names I’ve had the torture of learning throughout the years: Idle Air Bypass •Idle Air Control •Idle Speed Control •Throttle Bypass Air •Idle Bypass •Inlet Air Controller •Inlet Air Bypass •Intake Air Bypass •Intake Air Control..."

Source: by Ryan M (Fireguy50) at http://fordfuelinjection.com/index.php?p=39

...

Vacuum Leak Test; On an idling engine check for vacuum leaks using a mechanic's stethoscope with the probe removed, or a ~3' garden hose section. Don't spray flammables on a running engine. MIESK5 NOTE; Also check: vacuum hoses; intake manifold gasket & throttle body; PCV line; vacuum reservoirs: EGR Sys Vacuum Tank & 2ndry air (coffee can); AC, heater, defroster, vent control ckt & vacuum tank (plastic ball type), under dash & lines to heat/blend/etc. doors; power brake booster; cruise control ckt, etc.... where applicable

BEWARE OF BELTS/PULLEYS, FAN AND HOT ENGINE

Source: by miesk5

...

How about getting a real cheap Vacuum gauge and using it? One of da Best & Less $ diagnostic tools out there

Vacuum Gauge Diagnosis - BEST!; Normal engine; Steady gauge 18"-20" at all speeds..." READ MUCH MORE

Source: by Craig U at http://www.classictruckshop.com/clubs/earlyburbs/projects/vac/uum.htm

hook it up to intake manifold Tee; route thru clutch blank w/grommet, under passenger side carpet "inlet"

& grommet under the glove box on the fire wall

---------------

DTC 44 (KOER); Right Thermactor Inoperative; "...I had a similar issue that turned out to be the vacuum line to the Thermactor Air Bypass Valve. No CEL, just a code; 1. First check that the two vacuum lines are connected to the Vacuum Reservoir (you have the ball type) and the resevoir is in good repair with no leaks on the bottom. Frequently the can leaks or the vacuum lines are accidentally knocked off. Check the vacuum hose to the bottom of the Bypass Valve. Check the vacuum hose to the Diverter Valve. Check the vacuum hoses to the TAB/TAD Solenoids. Then check your TAB/TAD Solenoids. These are common easy to miss problems. Once these are ruled out all that is left is: Thermactor Air Supply Hoses. One-way Check Valves. Main TAB/TAD Valves..."

Source: by Seattle FSB (SeattleFSB)

...

DTC 44 (KOER); Right Thermactor Inoperative; "...indicates a Thermactor Air System leak which could be anywhere from the smog pump up front to include EGR solenoiids over on the right inside fender liner and all the way to the back of the engine which is what you see in the photos. There is also a smog tube that runs along the passenger side engine below the valve cover which runs to the back of the FI plenum up to a Air Bypass Valve (plastic) crossing over to the cross-over tube (exhaust) which is connected to that and the CAT, check valve and tube below. the Thermactor system is designed to capture spent gases and ultimatley send them down to the CAT to burn off etc.If you look closely you'll see the chek valve and CO tube is pipe threaded, use some anti-seize and don't over tighten and when putting the valve on the tube, you don't need a gasket for the CO tube ends but rather just use some bearing grease which melts and forms a nice gasket seal.....this is a tip from Steve83; gaskets burn off and go away after a while and you're back with another vacuum leak etc..."

Source: by JKossarides ("The Bronco", Jean)

TAD TAB location pic by Steve83



Operational Description & pic; This pumps fresh air into the exhaust system, to burn left over hydrocarbons, lowering emissions. The computer uses 2 air valves (TAB & TAD) to control where the air flows depending on engine operation. Thermactor Air Bypass (TAB) shunts air to the atmosphere, when no air is needed. When air is needed it sends air to the second valve TAD. Thermactor Air Diverter (TAD) diverts air either to the exhaust manifold, or directly to catalytic converter. MIESK5 NOTE; If da Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor (ECT) is Below 50 degrees F, then TAB is grounded & sends air to atmosphere; If Between 50 and 190 Degrees F, Bypass Valve sends air to Diverter and to Manifold; If Over 190 Degrees F, it is in closed loop & Air goes to Catalytic Converter; Bypass when at idle/Wide Open Throttle (WOT), and with failing Oxygen Sensor. The fastest way to see if vehicle is in open loop is to see where the air is going; to Catalytic Converter, it is in Closed Loop; to Atmosphere or Manifold it is in Closed Loop, provided the thermactor system is working

Source: by Ryan M (Fireguy50) at http://fordfuelinjection.com/index.php?p=11

=======

==============

DTC 21 ECT out of self test range 0.3 to 3.7 volts; "... ECT is bad, engine not warmed up, bad thermostat, low coolant..Coolant is less than 50 deg F for KOEO, or less than 180 deg F for KOER, or greater than 250 deg F for either. If coolant temp is in proper range, suspect ECT sensor or it's connector/wiring..." read more

.......

DTC 25 Knock Sensor not tested (KOER); ignore if not pinging

Source: by miesk5

Source: by miesk5

 

[famousguy_fsas]

Ok prob fixed. When I was checking my o2 wire I decided to further my wiggle test and when gave the big mess of wiring on the passanger wheel well a lil shake my truck died. Did it again and everytime the truck would jolt and almost die. I proceded to taking off all the wire loomimg to find the prob and well... It went away. So it has stopped. Havent found it but im over it as long as it isnt doing it anymore. And if it starts up again then I know where to go. Also I put in a new o2 and it smoothed some things out. Stopped the rich exhaust smell and gave me alot more power.

So thank all u guys for ur help. I will prob be back soon as this bronco is being turned into a crawler. I have the lift. Tires. Half doors. Sliders. Bumpers. And I have tons of custom ideas I havent seen done before im gonna try. Hopefully that project will start in three months or so. Thank u all again