I'm new to having an early bronco and have never really dealt with drum brakes. Is it normal that the pedal usually loses braking power and hits the floor? I have to constantly pump it to keep it braking. Just wanted to be sure this is normal and I'm not going to lose all brakes one day. Thanks for any feedback
Drum brakes
- Thread starter pj31704
- Start date
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A profound NO..!!
No Ford EB, or any other mfgr. made their brakes to fail like that. Drum or otherwise.
What have you checked/inspected..? Fluid level, shoe adjustment, shoe wear..?
Could be a blo-by internal leak inside the master cylinder.
Could be external M/C leak with low reservoir.
Could simply be air in the lines & bleeding is required.
This is very UN-SAFE...!!! Park it 'til it's fixed, so as not to hurt yourself, or someone else. [-X
Do let us know what you find.... :-B
No Ford EB, or any other mfgr. made their brakes to fail like that. Drum or otherwise.
What have you checked/inspected..? Fluid level, shoe adjustment, shoe wear..?
Could be a blo-by internal leak inside the master cylinder.
Could be external M/C leak with low reservoir.
Could simply be air in the lines & bleeding is required.
This is very UN-SAFE...!!! Park it 'til it's fixed, so as not to hurt yourself, or someone else. [-X
Do let us know what you find.... :-B
DOT-3 is the recommended fluid..., however, any auto parts store will varify
those kinds of specs.
those kinds of specs.
I finally got some time to inspect under the rig today. I found this under the driver side, not really sure if it means a brake fluid leak but seemed evident of some type of leak. Does anyone know, will brake fluid appear this way if it has been leaking?
Also, I was trying to check the brake fluid level and I am having trouble with this. My 93 had an easy reservoir to check, obviously the 1973 doesn't have this. Do I need to take something off the master cylinder to check the fluid level? Thanks
Also, I was trying to check the brake fluid level and I am having trouble with this. My 93 had an easy reservoir to check, obviously the 1973 doesn't have this. Do I need to take something off the master cylinder to check the fluid level? Thanks
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Can't tell much fr. the pic. There's speckles on the tire that could indicate a leak from that old rubber flex brake hose.
Brake fluid leaks are usually quite messy. Wheel cylinders leak & leave streaks on the tires..., & sometimes drips on the floor.
There's a rectangle lid on the master cylinder. Likely held on with a thick spring-steel wire.
------ After a 2nd look, there's some "white" "whatever" (chalk like) all over that area. It's not brake fluid unless someone put some foreign liquid in the system.
Does that wipe off..? (looks more like battery acid spillage)
Brake fluid is a clear oil type fluid that appears wet & dark like those specs on the tires.
Brake fluid leaks are usually quite messy. Wheel cylinders leak & leave streaks on the tires..., & sometimes drips on the floor.
There's a rectangle lid on the master cylinder. Likely held on with a thick spring-steel wire.
------ After a 2nd look, there's some "white" "whatever" (chalk like) all over that area. It's not brake fluid unless someone put some foreign liquid in the system.
Does that wipe off..? (looks more like battery acid spillage)
Brake fluid is a clear oil type fluid that appears wet & dark like those specs on the tires.
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The chalk like substance was what I was wondering about, seems to be dripping from the hose at the top of the picture. It looks like its maybe been there awhile. Don't really see it being battery acid though, its on the driver side wheel.
As for the master cylinder, is there a technique on getting the wire over the top removed? Seems like its on there pretty good.
As for the master cylinder, is there a technique on getting the wire over the top removed? Seems like its on there pretty good.
You're doing fine.., but now, let's go back to basics.
You've had this rig a short while. Questions; is this low pedal issue better, worse, or the same as when you first got it.? Do the brakes pull left or right?
The front (smaller/closest to front of vehicle) reservoir operates the "rear" brakes.
Do this;
First, look for "wet" on the firewall below the master cylinder. Look on the "inside" as well to see if there is a wet trail fr. where the brake rod runs thru the firewall.
Now, pump the pedal 'til it doesn't hit the floor then, hold that pressure. If the pedal creeps down closer & closer to the floor, there's likely an internal leak in the master cylinder. (assuming no other leaks)
Also, check the back side of the rear wheels/tires/backing-plates for "wet".
Point being, you may have more than one issue.
If you find no leaks.., you may have no lining left on the rear brakes and/or lots of air in the line(s)
Pull a rear wheel & drum & check the shoes.
Bleed.., starting with right rear, left rear, right front, then left front.
NOTE: Don't let the reservoir(s) run dry while bleeding..!
You've had this rig a short while. Questions; is this low pedal issue better, worse, or the same as when you first got it.? Do the brakes pull left or right?
The front (smaller/closest to front of vehicle) reservoir operates the "rear" brakes.
Do this;
First, look for "wet" on the firewall below the master cylinder. Look on the "inside" as well to see if there is a wet trail fr. where the brake rod runs thru the firewall.
Now, pump the pedal 'til it doesn't hit the floor then, hold that pressure. If the pedal creeps down closer & closer to the floor, there's likely an internal leak in the master cylinder. (assuming no other leaks)
Also, check the back side of the rear wheels/tires/backing-plates for "wet".
Point being, you may have more than one issue.
If you find no leaks.., you may have no lining left on the rear brakes and/or lots of air in the line(s)
Pull a rear wheel & drum & check the shoes.
Bleed.., starting with right rear, left rear, right front, then left front.
NOTE: Don't let the reservoir(s) run dry while bleeding..!
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I've checked the firewall and the rear wheels for any wet spots, I don't see any evidence of a leak.
As far as the problem since I have acquired the rig, it has definitely gotten worse week by week. And I know there is no pull to one side. When I push the brake and get tension on the pedal it will slowly go further down to the floor as I hold force on it. From this I am guessing I am dealing with an issue with the master cylinder. Now I guess the question is, any way to fix the issue? Or will this require a new master cylinder?
As far as the problem since I have acquired the rig, it has definitely gotten worse week by week. And I know there is no pull to one side. When I push the brake and get tension on the pedal it will slowly go further down to the floor as I hold force on it. From this I am guessing I am dealing with an issue with the master cylinder. Now I guess the question is, any way to fix the issue? Or will this require a new master cylinder?
Either method will fix the problem. Rebuild or new.
Rebuilding req. taking it appart, checking the cylinder hole for rot or scratches..., then cleaning, (honing may be required) installing new rubber cups & a few other piecee parts in the same order & facing the same way.
The new one req. priming then installation. (rebuilt req. priming as well)
Once installed..., bleeding out any air that may have entered the lines while appart is necessary.
This is all quite easy.., but can be scarry the first time.
And.., compared to other component failures....this is actually a cheap repair.., new or rebuild.
Rebuilding req. taking it appart, checking the cylinder hole for rot or scratches..., then cleaning, (honing may be required) installing new rubber cups & a few other piecee parts in the same order & facing the same way.
The new one req. priming then installation. (rebuilt req. priming as well)
Once installed..., bleeding out any air that may have entered the lines while appart is necessary.
This is all quite easy.., but can be scarry the first time.
And.., compared to other component failures....this is actually a cheap repair.., new or rebuild.
One question, to do a rebuild where can I find all of the rubber cups and parts that need replacing?
Will I need to order individually off BroncoGraveyard? or possible to pick these parts up at local auto store?
I have not had much luck of finding anything except master cylinder replacement online at these stores. Thanks for any help
Will I need to order individually off BroncoGraveyard? or possible to pick these parts up at local auto store?
I have not had much luck of finding anything except master cylinder replacement online at these stores. Thanks for any help
Almost any Quality auto parts store will have FORD M/C re-build kits in stock.
However.., don't open the package 'til you examine the interior of the cylinder hole. If its badly scarred, & not rebuildable.., you can return the kit & get a new M/C ...., or some times they have rebuilts.
These days.., I don't recommend buying a rebuilt. (who knows who did it..?)
However.., don't open the package 'til you examine the interior of the cylinder hole. If its badly scarred, & not rebuildable.., you can return the kit & get a new M/C ...., or some times they have rebuilts.
These days.., I don't recommend buying a rebuilt. (who knows who did it..?)
Well, upon inspection as I was unhooking stoplight switch I found this 
I am still new to some of this, just wondering if the pushrod should have this much brake fluid coming through? I am guessing no. So will I be able to just replace that seal?
I am still new to some of this, just wondering if the pushrod should have this much brake fluid coming through? I am guessing no. So will I be able to just replace that seal?
That's more of a dust boot. It will come out with the M/C & a new one will be in the kit.., or come with a new M/C.
Yes.., that's signs of leakage soooo., it (M/C) is definitely due.
At this point.., I would suggest buying a NEW quality M/C so you don't have to go thru this again. You could use the old one to take apart, clean, & put back together, not to use but for practice.
Point being.., a proper functioning M/C will put a load on other components in the system., like wheel cylinders. Should they fail under proper pressure, you'll know how to insp., clean, rebuild or replace them. (They are smaller but similar)
I would buy parts fr. one of our Bronco stores like Wild Horses or Toms Bronco Parts as the quality is there. (No Chineee parts..!)
Yes.., that's signs of leakage soooo., it (M/C) is definitely due.
At this point.., I would suggest buying a NEW quality M/C so you don't have to go thru this again. You could use the old one to take apart, clean, & put back together, not to use but for practice.
Point being.., a proper functioning M/C will put a load on other components in the system., like wheel cylinders. Should they fail under proper pressure, you'll know how to insp., clean, rebuild or replace them. (They are smaller but similar)
I would buy parts fr. one of our Bronco stores like Wild Horses or Toms Bronco Parts as the quality is there. (No Chineee parts..!)
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Success! New M/C on and bled the system. Brakes are working 100% better. I have noticed the red light on the dash is on. Just wondering if any idea why that would be lit?
Side note, switch was not plugged in before the brake job, I noticed it was unplugged and connected it.
Side note, switch was not plugged in before the brake job, I noticed it was unplugged and connected it.
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