Drop Tansfercase or Slip Yoke Eliminator???

[cory1014]

I'm looking to lift my '93 4 maybe 6 inches towards the end of winter. I'd like to go with the full leaf system(no blocks) along with longer radius arms for climbing some rocks and trail riding. I'm not sure about the transfercase position with the drive shafts to the axels getting any weird angles or if it will even get into a weird position. Just want to do it right and not break anything on the trail. Also any other problems I may want to check into before going off-road please let me know. I already know about the TTB and caster, camber and the alignment, I think I've read everyhting about it on here.haha Also any suggestions on a good lift system like described that'd be great, I'm still researching. Thanks for the help.

 

[vincendebbie]

I'm looking to lift my '93 4 maybe 6 inches towards the end of winter. I'd like to go with the full leaf system(no blocks) along with longer radius arms for climbing some rocks and trail riding. I'm not sure about the transfercase position with the drive shafts to the axels getting any weird angles or if it will even get into a weird position. Just want to do it right and not break anything on the trail. Also any other problems I may want to check into before going off-road please let me know. I already know about the TTB and caster, camber and the alignment, I think I've read everyhting about it on here.haha Also any suggestions on a good lift system like described that'd be great, I'm still researching. Thanks for the help.

Rough Country offers a good full leaf and coil spring 6 inch lift. Make sure to get the extended brake lines, I use the spring covered lines. I have a 6 inch suspension lift and a 3 inch body lift with the original pads still in place. My tail shaft end and transfercase are both dropped two inches. I took the transmission bracket and mounted it under the frame rails with two inch metal spacers. Depending upon the transmission you are running you may have to change both drive shafts. I had the rear one extended 3 inches and the front one extended 2 inches. The best thing to do is to drop the tranny to the position you want and then take measurements. You want the slip yoke to be able to do its job properly. I hope this helps. --Vince

 

[GSUEagles]

Seriously? Have you looked at your driveshaft? There is no slip yoke to eliminate.....

Also, i've never heard of a transfercase drop for a bronco.

I've seen bronco's run 8" of lift on the stock driveshafts and work fine. Unless you have a manual transmission, the front d.shaft may hit your crossmember.

 

[vincendebbie]

Seriously? Have you looked at your driveshaft? There is no slip yoke to eliminate.....
Also, i've never heard of a transfercase drop for a bronco.

I've seen bronco's run 8" of lift on the stock driveshafts and work fine. Unless you have a manual transmission, the front d.shaft may hit your crossmember.

Seriously, if you lift the suspension and not lower the angle of the transmission you will cause undo stress and wear on the tranny. The drop for the transmission is not something that is offered by a manufacturing company, it is something that is fabricated for personal use as a custom fit for the application you are using. Even with 6 inches of suspension lift the double cardigan on the transfercase end of the rear drive shaft may rub against itself as it spins. I have had to file a few and some clear just fine. Again, it depends on the application. And yes there is a slip on 92 and up drive shafts for sure. I can take pictures and post them if you like. Oh also, working for FORD as a Certified Tech kind of allows me to be able to know this info.

Corey - PM sent, I will get you the electrical diagram from the OEM Ford Tech book tomorrow. --Vince

 

[GSUEagles]

And yes there is a slip on 92 and up drive shafts for sure. I can take pictures and post them if you like.

If you have time, that'd be great. I've never seen a '92+ Bronco without a double cardigan joint.

 

[Yardape]

Every one of them have a Double Cardan Joint. They still need a slip joint to function. You are correct that they dont have a slip yoke, the slip is in the shaft itself. And yes i'm well aware you know that as well.

 

[vincendebbie]

Every one of them have a Double Cardan Joint. They still need a slip joint to function. You are correct that they dont have a slip yoke, the slip is in the shaft itself. And yes i'm well aware you know that as well.

BINGO Yardape, ok so my bad for saying "yoke" instead of "joint", but the point is there is a slip in the drive shaft. --Vince

 

[cory1014]

Wow...that was an interesting back and forth. I just wasn't sure. I know now.

 

[Yardape]

Haha, I was wondering what was going through your mind. You will get that some times, guys just read threads and pick them apart to try and cause conflict.

 

[cory1014]

Yeah I've see nthat a lot. When there is nothing to do on the computer and I've looked at enough bronco parts and extras I read peoples arguments on here like the one about the new f150 sucks and some will never buy one and this and that. I think it's great stuff.

 

[vincendebbie]

Yeah I've see nthat a lot. When there is nothing to do on the computer and I've looked at enough bronco parts and extras I read peoples arguments on here like the one about the new f150 sucks and some will never buy one and this and that. I think it's great stuff.

Hahaha, yeah, technically the shaft starts at the rear end with the yoke fitting, attaches with U-joints onto the drive shaft yoke which "slips" in and out of the long portion of the drive shaft, the next portion begins the cardigan joint which is actually a double u-joint with a needle bearing and ball, you then attach the upper most u-joint to the yoke on the transfercase. I also have a set of drive shafts that include a flat plate at the rear end and transfercase where the drive shaft bolts too. There are many different applications and ways of doing things.

It is all about general info on here and helping one another. I am not into the arguing a point with someone. I know what works for me and what has worked for others in the past. I pass the info on and folks do what they want with it. Diversity is the spice of life and we are a very diverse bunch on here. If someone knows a better way of doing things or a different way then share it. We, or atleast I, will listen and take out of it what may work for me.

--Vince

 

[Yardape]

Hahaha, yeah, technically the shaft starts at the rear end with the yoke fitting, attaches with U-joints onto the drive shaft yoke which "slips" in and out of the long portion of the drive shaft, the next portion begins the cardigan joint which is actually a double u-joint with a needle bearing and ball, you then attach the upper most u-joint to the yoke on the transfercase. I also have a set of drive shafts that include a flat plate at the rear end and transfercase where the drive shaft bolts too. There are many different applications and ways of doing things.
It is all about general info on here and helping one another. I am not into the arguing a point with someone. I know what works for me and what has worked for others in the past. I pass the info on and folks do what they want with it. Diversity is the spice of life and we are a very diverse bunch on here. If someone knows a better way of doing things or a different way then share it. We, or atleast I, will listen and take out of it what may work for me.

--Vince

Hey dont take it to heart, people like that come and go constantly. You have the proper attitude, just let it go.

 

[vincendebbie]

Hey dont take it to heart, people like that come and go constantly. You have the proper attitude, just let it go.

I take nothing to heart, just wanted to make sure that everyone else who read the thread understood what was going on. Some of the newb's may not understand. Thanks Yardape. --Vince

 

[cory1014]

I'm pretty sure I understand this now. I was actually working on my exhaust tonight and saw everything ya'll are talking about. My looks the same to what vince explained. I will still need some step by step help when I order the lift ofcaurse. haha thanks a lot guys.

 

[Justshootme84]

cory, you are doing the right thing by asking lots of questions and searching before getting a lift kit for your Bronco. My advice on brand would be what you find the best deal on, the quality of the brackets and the reviews of others who've had similar kits on their rigs. You'll save some considerable cash by doing the install yourself with the help of a few friends and a place to do the work. In addition to the kit itself, you've already mentioned longer brake lines. Some kits come with them, others do not, but check that the new lines are D.O.T. approved for street use. A couple brands of non-DOT appr. lines have bben reported to fail more often than normal. As you've mentioned, you'll need a frontend alignment after the lift kit goes on, so you want to check the condition of all the steering components. Items like the tierod ends, drag link, balljoints, wheel bearings, hubs, etc. need to be in working order, or you'll have problems. I've sen many lifts stalled due to having to replace worn suspension bushings, and often suggest planning on installing new, poly urethane bushings at the same time as you do the lift. Good luck, and keep us posted, JSM84

 

[BLADE262US]

GSUEagles I suggest you look back at the rules search my name Im sure youll find a discussion . We are not here to belittle people or make them feel uncomfortable about posting if you feel the need to do this go somewhere else if you continue I will help you . Thats all Ive got to say about that . There will be no more warnings . Enjoy the site /emoticons/[email protected] 2x" width="20" height="20" />

 

[cory1014]

Thanks a lot! I'll do that with checking the DOT lines. Since my bronco sat for about a year in virginia before I bought it from a lady on the coast of NC it was in rough shape about $9000 and 2 years later its finally starting to come together. I plan on replacing all the front end components that you mentioned. I'm just researching and looking for deals and quality now before I get into anything. I'll post tons of pictures once I start.