drilled and slotted rotor

[broncotough]

does anyone know were online to get the best value in rotors. this is the third set of vented rotors ive gone thru in just over a year. they warp really fast. the last set was premium and lasted a little longer. this is my wifes favorite vehicle to drive. she drives it like a mustang. lol i cant fix her drivin shes stuck in her ways so i need to upgrade. there are many brands, prices and sites. dont know who to trust.

 

[Broncobill78]

I haven't gone the drilled/slotted route with the Bronco's, I used Brembo's on my Grand National though. As a general rule you pretty much get what you pay for with rotors. Cheap drilled/slotted rotors usually *do* warp pretty quickly. These are one of those parts where you look for the most expensive ones you can find & buy them.

http://www.brembo.com/ENG

 

[American Thunder]

Could always route some dryer duct tubing to blast fresh air onto the brakes. If she drives it like its a NASCAR, you might as well cool it like its a NASCAR. haha

 

[broncotough]

**** Thats awesome. im an a/c tech why havent i thought of that.

 

[Broncobill78]

The best rotors for these trucks are MotorCraft.

Why ? Admittedly MotorCraft's aren't bad & I agree the drilled/slotted rotors are rarely necessary (it's usually only the cheap ones that crack or warp though the real good ones work well) but (assuming $$$ was no object of course /emoticons/[email protected] 2x" width="20" height="20" /> ) I'd rather have a set from Brembo or baer.

 

[Seabronc]

If you are really interested in improving the braking performance then go for an after market solution like rear discs and something like a hydro boost system.

Good luck,

>-

 

[broncotough]

the rotors and pads arnt wearing out as much as they are overheating. i had a similiar issue with a nissan maxima in the mountains of north carolina. after switching to a drilled and slotted rotor, stopping felt more confident and very smooth. also im sure under normal driving conditions premium vented rotors and good pads should be enough but.. when you drive it like you just stole it, and race it from stop light to stop light they get hot quick. i would love to put rear disc on and will when i upgrade to a 1 ton rear. for now its either a cooler running brake system or slowing her down (the wife). im sure i need to upgrade somehow (the truck not the wife) this seems like the easiest bolt on solution. im still shopping. thanks for your ideas

 

[Justshootme84]

For some odd reason, I was really ******* the brakes on my work truck (98 Z-71). Rotora 7 pads would only last 25-30K miles, and my local machanic said that is normal - if you live in san Francisco!!! 50-60K miles is more the norm here in the flats. The most common problem I found wass having the local tire place over-tighten the lugnuts when rotating the tires, thus warping the stock rotors. I've had better results by doing my own roation, and torqueing the lugs to 100 ft-lbs.

 

[broncotough]

im missing a lug nut do to a stripped stud. i've never torqued the wheels on, but i put them on by hand not with an impact. i hate when they do that, i can never get them off with out a fight. your post makes me think the missing lug nut might have somethin to do with it. when i put the diff back in ill replace the studs and lugs. ill be sure to torque them down now. thanks for a diffrent look at things it makes since.

 

[Seabronc]

For some odd reason, I was really ******* the brakes on my work truck (98 Z-71). Rotora 7 pads would only last 25-30K miles, and my local machanic said that is normal - if you live in san Francisco!!! 50-60K miles is more the norm here in the flats. The most common problem I found wass having the local tire place over-tighten the lugnuts when rotating the tires, thus warping the stock rotors. I've had better results by doing my own roation, and torqueing the lugs to 100 ft-lbs.

Yah, I had a tire shop that put my daughter's lugs on so tight I broke the spline tool that is required to take them off. I couldn't budge them with lug wrench. Sent it back with instructions on how to mount wheels and tighten lugs.

>-

 

[broncotough]

still waiting on drilled and slotted rotors. irotors ebay store paid 141.45 Supposed to have some sort of anti corrsion inhibiter. ordered 4/30 still waiting...... i miss my bronco....

 

[shift1313]

i got some cheap drilled/slotted rotors for another project of mine. they were for an nsx and were $40 each but i dont know that i would cheap out with your wife at the wheel.

As far as quality goes. Im very happy with wilwoods performance parts. Ive also had really good luck with ebc pads. Pads with cut outs for outgassing will help keep the heat out.

I dont know if wilwood has anything for you but their rotor hat design lets you replace only part of the rotors.

 

[broncotough]

After screaming thru the phone at an answering machine for the third time i finally got a tracking number from fed ex. i really hate internet companies. they never answer the phone, and i never got a call back. just an email with a tracking number. hey, whatever, ill be glad to get the truck back in the mud. i was almost going to reuse old pads and rotors just to get it out. 2 thumbs down Irotors.com

 

[miesk5]

thnx for the heads-up on that company broncotough!

I use the Motorcraft "SUPERDUTY" (Brand name, not the SD truck model) Pads pn BRSD-632 on the 96 & MC rotors; I rget about 33k Miles out of the pads and 66k miles out of the rotors before replacing them as reg. "over"-maintenance; I don't wait until the pads are shot or the rotors crack.

Ford Motorcraft

 

[shift1313]

the place i got my drilled/slotted rotors for my car project was r1concepts.com

looks like their economy drilled/slotted rotors are $63 ea

premium about $150.

they list rotors for 88-93 then 94-96. not sure what the difference is there.

 

[broncotough]

I finally got them yesterday and installed using premium ceramic pads, that company finally called me back and said the reason why it takes so long is that they start with a premium rotor and slot and drill it then it sits in a "zinc" chemical bath for 4 days. she was extremely sorry for the delay. the rotors look good they are directional including the internal cooling vanes. i hope these will last. after breakfast im going to test them out. we just got some rain so im going to try out that welded diff to. hehe

 

[broncotough]

brakes dont seem as confident as they should. firm pedal, and if i push hard enough the rears will lock and unlock but not the fronts. after some stop and go traffic you can smell them. i hope thier just needing to break in a bit

 

[BUBBAS 666]

Did you clean the surface of the new rotors before installing them?

Most of the new rotors we (me and the rest of the techs I work with) install have a factory coating on them that causes a "glaze" and will be harder to stop.

Cleaning the surface off with brake cleaner before install helps.

If you don't you'll have to burn off that top coat. It'll take about a week.

When I replaced my rotors I didn't clean it off and was not stopping as good as it should.

A week later it was stopping like a dream.

 

[broncotough]

I used a lot of brake cleaner and made sure everything was clean. The guy at autozone said because they are drilled and slotted there is less surfase area, so they wont stop as well. i find this hard to believe. im going to check the brakes front and rear this weekend. i also want to relocate my rear spring perches slighty to help my driveshaft angle