Cruise stopped working 1996

[sinker4]

I have a 1996 bronco 5.8 and the cruise control has been giving me problems for a while but it’s totally stopped now. I have checked the fuse #13 it’s fine. Also replaced the brake controller which was a cheap guess but it’s still not functioning. The tail lights are all replaced with oem bulbs and burning brightly. Any thoughts would be welcome. I am the original owner and love my ride, it was acting up the last few years and you would have to hit the activate button multiple times to get it engaged but generally worked fine, now I get nothing. Wondering if the steering wheel controls go bad on these or if it’s something else.

Thanks, Ken

If you replaced any of the break lights with LEDs the cruise wont work. It is looking for the resistance of the bulbs. Also there was a recall on the cruise unit some time ago

 

[ablediver]

Well, I guess those LED replacements will be sitting on my parts shelf. Glad they weren't expensive. Thanks for the heads-up

Ablediver out

 

[paul rondelli]

My 1993XLT still has a recall for the cruise control. I have LEDs on my dash lights and interior. There are plenty of posts on-line about guys adding a resistor to draw more power after LED upgrading



i went to fords website and put in my VIN. the following came up:

NHTSA Campaign ID Number: 07V336000
1993 FORD BRONCO VEHICLE SPEED CONTROL

Recall Date: 08/03/2007

Summary:
ON CERTAIN PICKUP TRUCKS, PASSENGER VEHICLES, SPORT UTILITY VEHICLES, AND MOTOR HOMES CHASSIS, THE SPEED CONTROL DEACTIVATION SWITCH MAY, UNDER CERTAIN CONDITIONS, LEAK INTERNALLY AND THEN OVERHEAT, SMOKE, OR BURN.

Consequence:
THIS COULD RESULT IN AN UNDERHOOD FIRE.

Remedy:
DEALERS WILL INSTALL A FUSED WIRING HARNESS. OWNERS OF THE PASSENGER CARS INCLUDED IN THIS CAMPAIGN WILL BE INSTRUCTED TO RETURN THEIR VEHICLES TO THEIR DEALERS TO HAVE THE SPEED CONTROL DEACTIVATION SWITCH DISCONNECTED AS AN INTERIM REPAIR. AS SOON AS REPAIR PARTS ARE AVAILABLE (EXPECTED OCTOBER 2007), OWNERS WILL BE INSTRUCTED TO RETURN TO THE DEALERS FOR INSTALLATION OF A FUSED WIRING HARNESS. THE RECALL BEGAN ON AUGUST 13, 2007, AND MAILING COMPLETED BY SEPTEMBER 19, 2007. OWNERS MAY CONTACT FORD AT 1-888-222-2751.

Potential Units Affected: 3600000

This guy explains the amp draw difference between LED and incandescent pretty well. It is a really big deal for RV guys ... but off-road also uses a ton of amps too.

Amp Draw Difference between LED and Incandescent Bulbs

Watch this video to see the amp draw difference between LED and incandescent bulbs that are used in RV’s. Much less is needed when you switch to LED.

www.rvrepairclub.com

just add some resistors to trick your ride into thinking you are still running incandescent. You will not save amp draw ... and they will will not save power anymore.... but they will last a LONG time

LED Load Resistors and Why You May Need Them for Your Vehicle

One of the most common problems that arises when replacing stock filament bulbs with LED bulbs in most vehicles is hyper flashing or bulb out warnings.

www.vleds.com

 

[EnginerdMTB]

I am having a slightly different problem, but it may be related so I thought it would be best to build on this thread:

After running through 'Pinpoint Test A,' I learned the following:
- Test A4: Passed with doors closed (0.1 ohms), but was ~50 ohms with the driver door open
- Test A11: Failed (12v with horn button depressed)

All other tests checked out ok, including resistance in all steering wheel cruise switches. It seems like I should be looking at the switches and clock spring, and want to rule out any wiring issues before ordering parts. I have a few questions:
1) Is it normal for resistance between pins 4 and 10 to vary with an open door (presumably tied to courtesy/dome light curcuit)?
2) Does a failed test 'A11' indicate bad switches, even if resistance is ok?
3) Could it be the clock spring, even though the horn works, and resistance doesn't vary when wheel is turned?

NOTE: I have also completed the 'self test' procedure by installing a test lamp between pin 1 and the positive terminal of the battery, per TSB 06-8-5, and get 4 flashes, indicating "the speed signal circuit is open or damaged." I do not believe this is correct, because my speedo works, E4OD transmission shifts fine, and I recently cleaned the VSS, and measured good voltage on the pinpoint test (A14 ~4V). The TSB also notes "...the clutch (CPP/neutral switch (TR sensor) circuit is damaged..." I presume it can't be this, because I have an automatic, so no clutch, but figured I should ask:
Is there a clutch (CPP/neutral switch (TR sensor)) on a '95 Bronco with E4OD automatic transmission? If so, where is it located?

Any insight would be appreciated. Thanks!

 

[Motech]

Is there a clutch (CPP/neutral switch (TR sensor)) on a '95 Bronco with E4OD automatic transmission? If so, where is it located?

CPP for manual transmission, and Neutral Switch (Transmission Range sensor) for automatic transmission are combined for convenience in these Ford diagrams.

So yours does NOT use a Clutch Pedal Position switch, which would be located on the clutch pedal linkage at your feet.

The Neutral (Safety) Switch function us incorporated into the Transmission (gearshift selector) Range Sensor, which lives on the left hand side of the transmission and wraps around the gear shift selector shaft.

EDIT:

These switches serve only to cancel the cruise control if there is a status change. If you push in the clutch, it turns off the cruise, or if you shift from drive to neutral, it shuts off the cruise.

 

[Motech]

Don't overlook the simple stuff. Many cruise control failures can be traced to linkage popped off at throttle body for example, or vacuum disconnected/misrouted, and rodent damage to underhood cruise wiring.

 

[EnginerdMTB]

Don't overlook the simple stuff. Many cruise control failures can be traced to linkage popped off at throttle body for example, or vacuum disconnected/misrouted, and rodent damage to underhood cruise wiring.

Good point. All under hood components have passed a visual inspection, and there does not appear to be excess resistance in the cable. I suspect the problem is electrical due to the test results. I suspect if it was something in the linkage, I would still hear the motor whirring or see the actuator trying to turn when doing the self test in the TSB.

tuff. Many cruise control failures can be traced to linkage popped off at throttle body for example, or vacuum disconnected/misrouted, and rodent damage

 

[EnginerdMTB]

CPP for manual transmission, and Neutral Switch (Transmission Range sensor) for automatic transmission are combined for convenience in these Ford diagrams.

So yours does NOT use a Clutch Pedal Position switch, which would be located on the clutch pedal linkage at your feet.

The Neutral (Safety) Switch function us incorporated into the Transmission (gearshift selector) Range Sensor, which lives on the left hand side of the transmission and wraps around the gear shift selector shaft.

EDIT:

These switches serve only to cancel the cruise control if there is a status change. If you push in the clutch, it turns off the cruise, or if you shift from drive to neutral, it shuts off the cruise.

We may be on to something... I took a peek at the neutral safety switch, and found a black wire coming into the harness had been cut, and the previous owner had installed a wire running aft connecting to the switch. I rewired the unit into the factory configuration, and it now appears I have no reverse lights (all other lights seem to work). I re-ran the pinpoint tests, and both 'A4' and 'A11' had the same result. The self test also yielded the same result.

It appears there is something funky in the wiring, but as far as I understand, reverse lights should have nothing to do with cruise control operation. I guess I will have to make some time to dig deeper into the wiring; any ideas would be appreciated, including aftermarket options.

 

[Motech]

It appears there is something funky in the wiring, but as far as I understand, reverse lights should have nothing to do with cruise control operation.

But cruise control module and reverse lights both receive signals from the Range Selector Switch, as does the PCM. Any electrical fuckery there can potentially affect other systems too.

 

[ragtop69]

My '95 XLT had an intermittent problem with the cruise control when I bought it four years ago. I fiddled with fuses and that awful switch on the MC with no success. It was the servo that is under the hood on the driver's side right in front of the MC. It controls throttle position. They didn't make a replacement unit for that back three years ago (and may still may not), so I bought an operating used one from a Ford truck wrecker locally. Problem solved.

 

[wyo58]

I have a 1996 bronco 5.8 and the cruise control has been giving me problems for a while but it’s totally stopped now. I have checked the fuse #13 it’s fine. Also replaced the brake controller which was a cheap guess but it’s still not functioning. The tail lights are all replaced with oem bulbs and burning brightly. Any thoughts would be welcome. I am the original owner and love my ride, it was acting up the last few years and you would have to hit the activate button multiple times to get it engaged but generally worked fine, now I get nothing. Wondering if the steering wheel controls go bad on these or if it’s something else.

Thanks, Ken

Could be steering wheel switches also check the boo switch on the brake, if its adjusted wrong it will not allow it to set speed.

 

[Timothyfugate]

I have a 1996 bronco 5.8 and the cruise control has been giving me problems for a while but it’s totally stopped now. I have checked the fuse #13 it’s fine. Also replaced the brake controller which was a cheap guess but it’s still not functioning. The tail lights are all replaced with oem bulbs and burning brightly. Any thoughts would be welcome. I am the original owner and love my ride, it was acting up the last few years and you would have to hit the activate button multiple times to get it engaged but generally worked fine, now I get nothing. Wondering if the steering wheel controls go bad on these or if it’s something else.

Thanks, Ken

I have all the books and electrical blue prints for a 1992 xlt bronco I will check in there books these aren't Chilton books there original ford bronco books

 

[EnginerdMTB]

I have all the books and electrical blue prints for a 1992 xlt bronco I will check in there books these aren't Chilton books there original ford bronco books

I tried a new neutral safety/transmission range selector switch, with no change. Any chance you can take a look for the wiring diagram to the switch? I suspect a wiring issue, and any test procedures or voltage/resistance specs for these circuits would be helpful.

 

[Ray_Bronco]

i currently have the same problem. i changes my horn/cruise button, replaced the spring that broke on the steering column. i now have a horn but still no cruise. i replaced the sensor on the master cylinder still no cruise. all fuses are good... i bought a new throttle cable in hopes that may be it.. so will see..

 

[EnginerdMTB]

I have verified the MLS/neutral safety/transmission range switch seems fine (trans shifts fine, car won't start unless in P or N), and two units provide identical operation. I found the following test procedure, but it seems to apply to testing the switch itself: https://circuitdiagram101.z21.web.core.windows.net/e4od-mlps-wiring-diagram.html

To be clear, I am looking to diagnose the circuits upstream of the connector, and wonder if anyone can provide a test procedure with voltages or resistances I should be getting from wherever that bundle of wires comes from/goes to.

At this point, I'd be happy to pay someone more experienced with these things, but as it seems like all standard test procedures have provided little insight, I'm not sure it would be worth the time and money. I'm sure there are plenty of folks who could look at this and figure it out without too much trouble, and if you can recommend someone in Northern New England, that would be great.

 

[EnginerdMTB]

i currently have the same problem. i changes my horn/cruise button, replaced the spring that broke on the steering column. i now have a horn but still no cruise. i replaced the sensor on the master cylinder still no cruise. all fuses are good... i bought a new throttle cable in hopes that may be it.. so will see..

Have you run through this diagnostic procedure? https://diesel-dave.com/vehic/manual/stj/stja3005.htm#a

It is pretty easy to do with a multi-meter, and the only "tricky" part is to test VSS voltage with the vehicle running on jack stands. There is also a TSB I linked earlier in the thread with instructions for a self test procedure (this requires installing a test light if you don't have a CC light in your dash).