Cranks Too Long B4 Start, Can You Help Diag?

[froggy47]

I'm having to crank 4 to 5 times (5 sec each) before it'll start. Once running if I shut off & restart it catches right away. Sometimes when it starts the idle will be very low & like it wants to stall.

I've replaced fuel pump & filter a year ago. Also plugs, cap, rotor & wires.

This sound like anything familiar? What else can I check or replace?

Thanks

 

[BigNasty]

Tell us more about your engine.

What size, injected or carbed, year etc. /emoticons/[email protected] 2x" width="20" height="20" />

 

[froggy47]

Hi & thanks It's in the signature but happy to repeat. 1989 b2 2.9fi 4x4 automatic

I GUESSING IAC but it's $68. so I'd rather get some help on the forum b4 I throw that part at it

 

[Guest]

ttt

 

[froggy47]

There is a part attached to the pass side intake manifold that has a line that looks like a large vacuum line that runs from it to the bottom of the throttle body. An elec. solenoid causes the valve inside to open. I tested it by taking the part off the intake manifold and cranking the engine. I could see the valve move. Is this the Idle Air Control Valve? IACV?

With the valve open it seems that this would reduce or bypass some of the air coming from the air filter area and make the fuel/air mix richer? Like a choke?

** Apparently it lets more air in and the engine computer adds more gas***

The valve had a lot of black dirt/carbon/crap on it which I cleaned a little with some brake cleaner.

** There was little chance of getting it 100% clean & it does not disassemble any more than what I had it at.**

Put it back on & it starts a little better but not perfect. Still about a 3 to 4 sec crank & usually 2 times to get started. Before it was a 5 sec crank 4 or 5 times to start

If you think this is headed in the right direction I may replace the part to get it back to 100% operation.

Does this make sense?

 

[BLADE262US]

My 89 full size bronco acted that way come to find out the pump in the tank was dead and it took that many times cycling the key to prime the pump in the frame rail after it started it was good until it sat for awhile and lost prime again . Check to see if you have 2 pumps if you can see the plug on top of the tank it should have 4 wires if theres a pump in there and 2 if it doesnt . Just something to check /emoticons/[email protected] 2x" width="20" height="20" />

 

[froggy47]

Thanks for the post,

I replaced the fuel pump in the tank & fuel filter about a year ago. It could be bad again. If it's not iac I'll check fuel press. at the rail w/ gauge

I'm betting on iac because it got a little better when I cleaned it - see prev. post

 

[BigNasty]

I missed your signature....

But it does sound like you are on the right path.

I have more experience with carbed engines and they would be another ball game in comparison /emoticons/[email protected] 2x" width="20" height="20" />

 

[Guest]

After sitting over night it was not much better this am

Is there a cold start fuel injector or something like that. Maybe needs a little xtra fuel on startup??

 

[froggy47]

I got an obd1 code reader & pulled the koeo(key on engine off) codes. There was nothing just 11/10/11 which is no bad codes.

I will check the fuel pressure today.

I did find a vacuum leak on the tubing for the a/c. I replaced the leaky part & it seems to start a bit better - but it's still not right.

The search continues

I'll try checking the "engine running" codes today along with fuel pressure.

Thing is it runs GREAT once started - I have to focus on cold start problem areas.

Anyone know this engine?

How to diagnose a cold start problem?

Thanks

 

[froggy47]

Pinched/restricted fuel line (pressure side) just before it goes into the fuel pressure regulator

This is the new fuel pressure hose - the one on top - old one was pinched

 

[froggy47]

It was the fuel pressure regulator, the part at the east end of the new fuel line I installed.

Hope this helps someone

 

[froggy47]

Not the FPR. I guess it's the 18 month old fuel pump. Last thing I want to do is drop the tank again, but it's at that point I guess

 

[froggy47]

Hi Mr. S.

I'm not positive on the direction of flow for the filler cap and the vent on top of the tank. Good topic for a new thread.

I did get this stinker finally fixed - it was the 18 month old piece of c#r%a^p fuel pump (NAPA's less expensive one - I know I should have known better. I hope this NAPA / Carter lasts longer

If it goes I guess I'll buy an oem.

For anyone else reading this thread here's a tip. If you hear the fuel pump make a noise and it's a kind of a weak 2 sec hum & then off - well that does NOT mean it's working. I know that now

Also you don't have to take the rear bumper off to drop the tank - you do need to drop the skid plate of course - 4 fasteners. Need to take the trim piece off between the body & bumper & you'll see two bolts there, other two at the front end of the skid plate.

Happy motoring

Also another good forum www.ford-trucks.com

 

[NewIIFord]

Hello,

I am looking at purchasing a 1987 B2, 2.9, automatic. My first Ford. It has a starting problem, similar to yours. Should I be worried about buying this thing? Can I get a phone number, to contact you? Please, email me directly at [email protected], as I need some quick answers. Thanks!

Regards,

Dave