Cowl induction hood

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rednck7736

rednck7736
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I have 1985 Bronco.I have been trying to fine a cowel induction hood.The only 1 that I have found was all fiber glass and 600 dollars.I have found them for the the 88 and newer.I have a problem with the under the hood temp.I can't even grab the antanni base or hood in the summer cause it is so hot.And it likes to boil the gas in the carb some times.It has a stroked 5.8 with alum. heads and intake a long with headers and a large max cool radator under the hood.I have bought a scoop to have put on the hood.But would rather have a hood with one already on it.I can find them all day long for a stinking chevy of all models.Its like almost all after market parts plac elike to cader to the damn chevy.

IF ITS NOT A FORD IT DOESNT EVEN MATTER!!!!!

 

Broncobill78

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http://www.usbody.com/

The Dominator is what you're looking for, it's a 3" cowl induction hood. The GT500 hood will also fit. Unfortunately $600 or so is the going price for a fiberglass hood. If you want something cheaper then you'll have to go the route you've already gone & pick something up that you can bond onto your steel hood. I had an L88 scoop on my last 78' and didn't have any problems bonding it on. just be sure to be careful when cutting the hole (or holes) so that you don't cut through the bracing (I learned that one the hard way, fortunately the 73-79 hoods have such a deep curve to them that they're pretty forgiving in that respect but the 80-96 hoods really need the brace)

I believe JC Whitney also carries a Z71 style hood for the 80-96's. Other than that I don't know of anyone making steel hods for this application.

Have you given any thought to trying to figure out just *why* it's running so hot ? I assume this wasn't a problem before the rebuild ? I've seen stroked/rebuilt engines that were either bored too far & had this problem because the cylinder wall was too thin at the water jacket or due to poorly fit pistons (too tight in the bore). What was the overbore ? Too rough of a finish on the cylinder wall can also cause this, was it honed after being bored ? Don't overlook the amount of heat the headers throw out, if you're sure the rebuild isn't the problem then I'd give serious thought to sending the headers out to be coated by someone like Jethot, having it coated with their stuff or something like a ceramacoat will drastically reduce underhood temperatures. You can go *real* cheap and do it yourself with a header wrap but that tends to really cut down on the life of the headers unless they're a high quality stainless. Jethotting them on the other hand can make even the cheapest carbon steel headers last a lifetime.

http://www.jet-hot.com/

 
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rednck7736

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I was hoping to find a all steel hood with a scoop.I have a scoop thats made like the old 69 camero scoop that opens to the rear that I guess I will have put on.As far as the heat. It has always been hot like that.My parents had the truck before me and it was stock everyting and was still on the hot side. Since then I added the all aluminam top end and headers.I started melting the spark plug boots on top of the distributer.So I git hi temp wire.The heat off the max radiator i put in is bad.And just recently I stroked the 351 to a 427.I have to pull the motor later on to fix the oil pan leak and put a stall and bigger cam in it.I guess will wrap the headers then.Its not drove much right now any way.I can't pull the headers out to wrap them.I had the collects cut off and the pipe welding to them.NO more dang collector leak.

 
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rednck7736

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The build is good on it .It was this hot before the build.But th thought crossed my mind to wrap the headers when I had the motor out.But I was on a thight budget and Just did not have the funds to beable to wrap them.The thought of having a set of headers jet coated had not even crossed my mind.I will probly have to have a set with of new ones in the next two years.The lower end of mine that catches all the mud and dirt look pretty ruff.These headers on it are 5 years old and up till last year.THe truck was a daily driver.But I will get the old ones wrapped and have the scoop put on.That will vent a lot of heat then.Thanks for the ideas guys.

 

Broncobill78

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Ok. Wow. I'm going to try & decipher what you're saying.

Yes, absolutely having the headers coated will dramatically reduce your underhood temps. A couple rolls of wrapping tape cost maybe $40 so that should be affordable if you're able to swing the cost of a 427 stroker. If those 5yr old headers aren't TOO pitted & worn then I would definitely have them coated & be done with them as a heat issue. Or as you seem to suggest, just buy a new set that are coated right off the bat & be done with it. Either way your headers dump a whole LOT of heat into the engine compartment & if fuel is boiling out of your float bowls then I'd say it's probably time to take the bull by the horns & deal with it.

As far as the hood thing goes I'm not sure what to say :) /emoticons/[email protected] 2x" width="20" height="20" /> A fiberglass hood will cost some bucks, no two ways about it. You can cut your steel hood & bond on an ABS or fiberglass scoop for a whole lot less & that's what I'd suggest. $hit, you can probably take the scoop you have & your existing hood down to a local body shop & have the whole thing done & brought to primer for half of what a fiberglass hood would cost just to purchase much less have delivered. Shiny paint is entirely overrated anyways, only pimps like that sorta $hit on a truck :) /emoticons/[email protected] 2x" width="20" height="20" />

 
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rednck7736

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Only pimps like the the shinny paint LOL.Thats a good one broncobill.I think I will just wrap the headers for now.I was going to get another hood and add the scoop myself.Then have it panted black black and have the 427 logo put on the hood like old nascars did .Black hood with white 427 logo on it on a white truck.That would work.

 

American Thunder

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I'm almost drooling looking at all those '73-'79 glass parts they have. Do you have any experience with the glass doors and how well they stand up to daily driver duty? It would be fantastic to have parts that can no longer get rusty on the edges, (like the bottom of the doors) I just want fenders, hood and doors. No mo' rust, and losing weight off the nose sure wouldnt hurt, either. The only part that does hurt is the cost.. heh I need a second job. Who needs sleep anyway!

 

Broncobill78

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I'm almost drooling looking at all those '73-'79 glass parts they have. Do you have any experience with the glass doors and how well they stand up to daily driver duty? It would be fantastic to have parts that can no longer get rusty on the edges, (like the bottom of the doors) I just want fenders, hood and doors. No mo' rust, and losing weight off the nose sure wouldnt hurt, either. The only part that does hurt is the cost.. heh I need a second job. Who needs sleep anyway!
I've only used 'glass doors once and didn't have a good experience. Swapping the window glass, regulators & the door handle hardware over was a pain in the a$$ & then 2 months later I whacked a small tree with the mirror while traveling pretty fast on a trail & just tore up the passenger door. Haven't messed with the stuff since.

 
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