yo ckbodwell,
WELCOME!
I merged the duplicate post; I have Internet Cable lag due to Comcast's long standing Modem *****-Up / Cover-Up and I often get timed-out and re-enter a new reply only to find that my first reply did make it through.
Under Quick Test; that is for Testing for Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTC),
Try a Self Test for Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTC)s by my pal, BroncoJoe19
http://broncozone.com/topic/14269-code-reader/page__pid__74587__mode__threaded
The engine temperature must be greater than 50° F for the Key On Engine Off (KOEO) Self-Test and greater than 180° F for the Key On Engine Running (KOER) Self-Test.
Run it around to heat the engine up and shift thru all gears incl Reverse. Then turn off all accessories/lights, etc.
Make sure A/C is off and transmission is in Park (automatic) or in Neutral for a Manual & release clutch.
Do Key On Engine Off (KOEO) portion first.
Look Codes up in my broncolinks.com site using the new Search function.
And Post em here according to:
KOEO
&
KOER
---
With
NO DTCs;
SLOW cranking caused by; battery, terminals, cables, relay, or starter.
LONG cranking caused by compression, vacuum, fuel, oil pressure, or ignition (could have DTCs)
Slow Cranking or a Grinding Noise; "... Problems with the negative battery cable is a major cause of starting problems in Ford, Lincoln, and Mercury vehicles. Bad battery cables can cause slow cranking or a grinding noise when trying to start an engine. On some late model vehicles dating back to 1994, the wire connection inside the battery terminal connector corrodes easily. This will cause a voltage drop in the cable and result in low voltage being supplied to the starter. You can check for voltage drop in the cable using a digital voltmeter. Connect the negative probe of the voltmeter to the negative battery post (not the battery terminal connector). Then connect the positive probe to the starter case and crank the engine. The voltage reading should be less than .5 volts. A higher reading means there is resistance in the cable or the battery terminal connector. Clean the cable end and the battery terminal connector and test again. If the voltage reading is still higher than .5 volts, replace the cable and the battery terminal connector..."
Source: by genco via miesk5 at Ford Bronco Zone Forums
Slow Cranking; Take it to a parts store for a free starting & charging sys check; such as most NAPA stores; "...Free Alternator, Starter, Battery, and charging system testing". or DIY for the most part; bad battery, corroded cables and corrosion within terminal/connector betwee wire strands or a bad starter motor. A bad battery will be detected by a low voltage at the battery terminals (not the cables) while cranking. Corroded cable connections will be detected by low voltage at the cable ends. A bad starter motor will draw a high current and the battery cables will get warm to the touch. While it's cranking measure the voltages across the battery terminals. It should be somewhere around 12 volts or just below. If it is much lower than that, say 10 volts, then the battery is bad and should be replaced. If it is around 12 volts then leave the negative voltmeter lead on the battery and probe the starter. The voltage there should be 12 volts or so, not much lower. If it still hasn't started and the battery runs down again then feel the cables to the starter, are they hot? As my Bro-in-Grease and Parts Joe mentioned; If so then the starter motor may be shot and is drawing too much current. If you can get a clamp-on ammeter then use it to measure the current draw of the starter motor. 300 amps is typical - 400 means that the armature is dragging on the stator and drawing too much current.
Source: by miesk
No Crank, No Start/Normal Crank; Hard Start/Long Crank; Stalls After Start, Stalls or Quits on Idle; Rolling Idle, Rough Idle; Fast Idle, Diesels; Low Idle Stalls or Quits on Deacceleration; Stalls/Quits on Acceleration or Cruise, Bucks/Jerks, Hesitates/Stumbles, Surges; Runs Rough on Acceleration or Cruise, Misses; Backfires; Surges on Cruise; Lack/Loss of Power; Poor Fuel Economy; Spark Knock Diagnosis & Troubleshooting, Chapter 10, from Ford Fuel Injection and Electronic Engine Control: How to Understand, Service and Modify, 1988-1993; starts at page 211 & shows what components to check first and Self Test procedure
http://www.yunost.ru/docs/Ford-injectors-book/Part10/Part10.pdf
Tips to Avoid Lean Conditions TSB 91-8-13; "...Rough idle, hesitation, poor throttle response, induction backfire and stalls during cold start/warm up may be caused by the poor volatility of some high octane premium grade unleaded fuels (91 octane or higher (R+M)/2). When compared to regular grade unleaded fuel (87 octane (R+M)/2), high octane premium grade unleaded fuel may cause long crank time.ACTION: Use a regular grade unleaded fuel in all vehicles, except where a premium unleaded fuel is recommended in the Owner Guide. If lean air-fuel type symptoms are experienced, determine the grade and brand of fuel used and offer the following service tips. Advise those using a higher octane grade fuel to switch to a regular grade unleaded fuel. For those using a regular grade fuel, advise them to try another brand. Do not advise using a higher octane unleaded fuel than is recommended for that specific engine. Ford engines are designed to perform best using a high quality regular grade unleaded fuel. Only advise using a higher octane unleaded fuel to avoid potentially damaging spark knock or ping, but do so only after mechanical fixes are ineffective. NOTE: ALL UNLEADED GASOLINES USED SHOULD CONTAIN DETERGENT ADDITIVES THAT ARE ADVERTISED AS HAVING "KEEP CLEAN" OR "CLEAN UP" PERFORMANCE FOR BOTH INTAKEVALVES AND FUEL INJECTORS..." by Ford
