can't stay running

[ColoradoBroncoman]

Hi, it has been a while since I've been on here but I've just ran into a problem today with my 1994 Bronco. Let me start from the begining, I've changed the sparkplugs, but it didnt really need to, the distributor cap and rotor cap and the throttle sensor. Now my truck would alway die out when I shift it into gear. I can let it idle, but it doesnt sound as strong as it use to. It would warm up good, but when I step the brakes to put it into gear, it would die. Not sure what the problem is, prior to changing all of those items out, it would run strong and would not die out. Any suggestions? It is 1994, Ford Bronco, 5.0 with electronic transmission. I cannot get it to stay running when going into gear. When I do get into gear and step the gas it would run pretty good, but when I stop, it would die.

Any ideas?

Thanks,

 

[miesk5]

yo,

I imagine you went over all that was replaced or disconnected while you made the changes; esp the throttle position sensor; Note that on 5.0L and 5.8L engines, position the TP sensor so that the pigtail points toward the IAC valve.

and maybe the stator (also called PIP etc.) inside distributor was disturbed?

Motorcraft Stator (PN DU-50) pics for your Remote Mount TFI ICM





Source: by Seattle FSB (SeattleFSB)

is Check Engine Light (CEL) On while driving?

Try a Self Test for Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTC)s by my pal, BroncoJoe19

http://broncozone.com/topic/14269-code-reader/page__pid__74587__mode__threaded

The engine temperature must be greater than 50° F for the Key On Engine Off (KOEO) Self-Test and greater than 180° F for the Key On Engine Running (KOER) Self-Test.

Run it around to heat the engine up and shift thru all gears incl Reverse. Then turn off all accessories/lights, etc.

Make sure A/C is off and transmission is in Park (automatic) or in Neutral for a Manual & release clutch.

Do Key On Engine Off (KOEO) portion first.

Look Codes up in my broncolinks.com site using the new Search function.

And Post em here according to:

KOEO

&

KOER

 

[ColoradoBroncoman]

yo,

I imagine you went over all that was replaced or disconnected while you made the changes; esp the throttle position sensor; Note that on 5.0L and 5.8L engines, position the TP sensor so that the pigtail points toward the IAC valve.

and maybe the stator (also called PIP etc.) inside distributor was disturbed?

Motorcraft Stator (PN DU-50) pics for your Remote Mount TFI ICM





Source: by Seattle FSB (SeattleFSB)

is Check Engine Light (CEL) On while driving?

Try a Self Test for Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTC)s by my pal, BroncoJoe19

http://broncozone.com/topic/14269-code-reader/page__pid__74587__mode__threaded

The engine temperature must be greater than 50° F for the Key On Engine Off (KOEO) Self-Test and greater than 180° F for the Key On Engine Running (KOER) Self-Test.

Run it around to heat the engine up and shift thru all gears incl Reverse. Then turn off all accessories/lights, etc.

Make sure A/C is off and transmission is in Park (automatic) or in Neutral for a Manual & release clutch.

Do Key On Engine Off (KOEO) portion first.

Look Codes up in my broncolinks.com site using the new Search function.

And Post em here according to:

KOEO

&

KOER

 

[ColoradoBroncoman]

All disconnected items were reconnected. I did not go into the distributor except to pull the rotor cap. I will have have to check the TPS to see if the pig tail is facing the valve. Right now the pigtail is facing to the rear of the engine.

If it is installed correctly, are there any other possibilities?

Thanks in advance,

Robert

 

[miesk5]

yo,

ok

is Check Engine Light (CEL) On while driving?

Do the Self Test

Check vacuum lines around coil to TAD/TAB & EVR



Location pic by SeattleFSB (Seattle FSB) at

 

[ColoradoBroncoman]

Meik, the Check engine light comes on every now and then when we start the engine. My question is: When I installed the new one it goes right on to the throttle body without turning the black know which turns/opens the flanges on the body. When I try and install the old one, it goes in one way and it turn the **** and opens the flanges when I turn it to aline the mount screws. Which is the correct way to install them.

At one point after installing the sensor, the enging was running but I had to push the gas peddal which cause the engine to shake violently. When the throttle was released, the engine just died out.

 

[miesk5]

yo CB, Sorry, was away for most of 3 days;

Read this info; I can't copy & paste right now

http://broncozone.com/topic/13883-throttle-position-sensor-tps-replacement/

=

and

The following is a list of vehicle symptoms which have been associated with the TPS, but can also be related to other vehicle

components.

Check engine light

Stalls/quits

Hesitation/stumble

Fast idle

If an EEC error code has identified the TPS as suspect, perform pinpoint tests on the TPS.

Testing the TPS in the vehicle electrical circuit

Do that self test asap

 

[ColoradoBroncoman]

Thanks Meisk, I will get it done. Those are the symtoms of what is happening. I have gone through 2 TBS since they both had the tabs inside move freely without turning the **** for the TB flanges.

I will what I can do,

Thanks again,