cam swap???

[crazzyace90]

i had a coolant leak and i took it into the same guy (trans shop. only shop i trust) who put my gears and locker in.

it looked like it was coming from the timing cover but i wasnt sure.

long story short, it was, and hes charging me about 700 for:

new water pump

timing cover

timing set & chain

coolant flush

oil change(coolant will get in oil from taking timing cover off)

all gaskets

he said alot of labor. said parts are only like 200-250.

but ive always wanted a new cam (nothing major expecially with speed density)and i know the cam is right there when you have the timing apart.

for the cam, he then quoted me 1300(other stuff above included) and thats with ME bringing in all the cam parts. i want the E303 ford racing cam and im pretty sure id need new hyd roller lifters and thats another like 250.

so with that said, is the 1300 (1550 est. with cam parts) a so-so price for a cam install and the coolant stuff?

i figured it would only take a few extra labor hours because i have had the top end apart myself before and all you would really need to take apart is the plenum and the valve covers. the rockers come right off and you could just use those magnetic (i forget the name of the tool) to hold the lifters up and make it possible to swap the cam WITHOUT taking the intake manifold off. he said hes never done a cam and not changed the lifters so the intake would have the come off as well as all the accessories on front and obviously distibutor with the intake off.

basically down to the block and heads. he said another 11 hours of labor?

im 99% for just telling him to take the 700 and fix the coolant leak.

thanks for anyone who takes the time to read this.

i used to come on here but forgot my info so i set up a new account.

 

[crazzyace90]

also, what kind of camshaft is in a 1990 351? hyd. roller? are my lifters rollers?

 

[95 buckin bronco]

yes your rocker arms are rocker rollers and u might want to take it all apart bc if u dont put new push rods and rocker rollers and rebuild ur heads with higher preasure springs if u dont things are more likely to go wrong. and if u dont put new push rods then u will have what u think is valve clatter but is just the old rocker rollers with the old push rods hitting the new cam trust me i know i did it lol.so the best bet would be to take it all apart and do it the right way cause if you dont things will break and they will break fast.

 

[crazzyace90]

yes your rocker arms are rocker rollers and u might want to take it all apart bc if u dont put new push rods and rocker rollers and rebuild ur heads with higher preasure springs if u dont things are more likely to go wrong. and if u dont put new push rods then u will have what u think is valve clatter but is just the old rocker rollers with the old push rods hitting the new cam trust me i know i did it lol.so the best bet would be to take it all apart and do it the right way cause if you dont things will break and they will break fast.

really? a 1990 is a hydraulic roller? so i dont have to convert?

i found this chart for lifters for sale and it seems only 1994 and up have them for the 351?

Ford Bronco 1992 5.0L V8 Hydraulic Lifter N ENG CODE - Y ENG CODE STANDARD ONLY - ROLLER TYPE

Ford Bronco 1992-1995 5.0L V8 Hydraulic Lifter RLR.

Ford Bronco 1993-1995 5.0L V8 Hydraulic Lifter N ENG CODE STANDARD ONLY - ROLLER TYPE

Ford Bronco 1994-1995 5.8L V8 Hydraulic Lifter RLR.

Ford Bronco 1994-1996 5.8L V8 Hydraulic Lifter WINDSOR - H ENG CODE

i am most likely going to do this myself when i get it back from the trans shop.

thanks for your help 95 buckin bronco!

 

[crazzyace90]

also if i do the cam myself, what kind of non-common tools will i need.

only thing i can think of is torque wrench (i need one) and a timing gear puller.

anything else?

what kind of puller am i going to need? do the timing gears have the tapered holes? like 5/16 thread. i found a puller on ebay

thanks

 

[92broncomann]

A 90 Bronco with a 351w is NOT Hydraulic Roller. It's a Hydrualic Flat Tappet. THe HR didn't start until 1994 when the F4TE 351w block was introduced.

When you do the cam you will need to remove both the upper and the lower intake manifolds(Unhook the fuel rail, vaccuum lines and wiring), valve covers, Distributor, the timing cover assembely(Water pump and cover), Fan & fan shroud, Radiator, move the a/c condensor as far forward as you can(be careful not to break or bend it up), Tie back both accessory brackets that hold the P/S Pump, A/c Pump, Air pump and Alternator.

With a new Cam, you will want new Lifters as well as aforementioned push rods. If you use old stuff on new parts, you will wear a new/different/rough pattern that will cause supreme failure. :-&

You will need a standard issue puller for the Crank Damper/Pulley only. They timing gears are key notched and should slide off. Cam will have a pin and crank will have a notch. Be sure that you put them on the right way(shouldn't have to be said, but it's been done before). If you decide to degree the cam, you're going to want a professional there, it's not hard but it can be messed up easily.

If you need more information just let us know.

92BM