C bushings

[marvin]

i need to replace my C bushings and my radius arm bushings JBG has a kit that has both in it so that is what i went with now should i try to do this myself or should i take it to a shop ?? i mow for a shop and they shot my a 150-200 price if i got the parts and i'm sure they are cutting me a deal but if i can do it i would like to save the favor for another job

 

[79bigbronco]

It's not a dificult job to do,the hardest part is getting the C bushing retainer back close enough to get the bolts started,I just use longer bolts in 2 positions to **** them together, then install the correct ones to finish the job.

 

[Bully Bob]

Safety is the key. Need tall, very sturdy jack stands under the frame rails.

Rad. arms need to be parallel B/4 locking down.

 

[Broncoholics]

Yeah, keeping the radius arm level is the most important. With the axle on the ground, tighten the bolts in an X pattern going from the left arm to the right until its tight. You will know if one arm gets off as the end of one arm which should be touching the ground will lift. Go back a few cranks until it touches down and retighten the otherside until its done. Then you have to fight to get the arms into the frame mounts. Its easier to have someone help to insert both sides at the same time. IBy yourself use leg power or a come-a-long. The rest is a straight bolt up.

 

[digitalracer]

if you do this repair yourself... i had to replace mine a few months ago not terribly difficult but time consuming and dirty here are a few tips

plenty of penetrating oil works wonders (pb blaster is my favorite)

disconnect the anti sway bar. otherwise you will be fighting it to manuver the axle back into place

impact wrench if you have access (saves tons of time and frustration)

 

[79shortbus]

if you do this repair yourself... i had to replace mine a few months ago not terribly difficult but time consuming and dirty here are a few tips
plenty of penetrating oil works wonders (pb blaster is my favorite)

disconnect the anti sway bar. otherwise you will be fighting it to manuver the axle back into place

impact wrench if you have access (saves tons of time and frustration)

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Like he said they're not hard to replace, surely not a $150 job. just follow those tips and you should be able to do it. I've done it b4 alone but I'd recommend having someone help ya since you've never done it. just take your time and remember how you took everything apart. shouldn't take ya long either it's just gettin started right, makin sure you dont round off and nuts/bolts and stuff like that. As for the swaybar none of mine have them anymore.

 

[Resto]

I just put new C bushings and radius arm bushings in my 78 bronco to allow for the new lift and it went fairly well. I am doing a restoration so I changed them as I placed the dana 44 in place and had no cross linkage to deal with so there wasn't much in the way.

If you have some common mechanical sense and the proper tools I don't foresee a problem. I took my front end apart just a couple months ago and everything came apart well for something that is 27 years old.

P.S. Note the proper C bushing placement depending on front/rear of axle.....should be written on bushing if applicable.

 

[jgvabronco]

I realize this is an old topic, but if anyone is still using this, there is an easy way to change these one at a time without wrestling the axle. If you've done this before, it will take you an hour or less per side. If not, then maybe 2 hours per side if you're good with picking up stuff like this.

Jack one side of axle up about 4"(loosen wheel studs first) and remove tire. Do not put jack under r-arm. Place stand under frame and place a little load on it by letting off jack a little. Loosen r-arm cap bolts slightly. If these are killer tight you may want to break them loose with tire still on ground but easier to get at w/ tire off. Remove rear arm nut and loosen 6 bolts holding bracket to frame and crossmember. Loosen the 2 bolts holding the coil spring cup to r-arm. Lower jack till you see coil rise off of cup. If rotor hits ground first, then jack axle back up and make stand on frame higher. Remove 2 bolts in cup and 4 r-arm cap bolts. Remove 6 bracket bolts and arm is off, axle and frame are supported, and opposite side is holding everything in place, no fuss. Put first side together with new bushings, then repeat for other side. The frame rail bolts are a pain, but nothing compared to wrestling the axle out of place in my opinion.