bronco starting problem? cold vs hot!

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alaskan18

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Hey there. New here working on my project bronco. Some reason after it is started and gets up to operating temperature if i shut it off it wont start back up (while hot, after it cools down it does fine)! What could be causing this?

 

Krafty

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when it comes to hot vs cold its usually an issue with metals expanding and contracting that plays with the conectivity of various electrical systems, but in any case can you please tell us what year and the details of your vehicle.

your vehicle details can be added to your "signature" on your profile page so that information is included on each of your posts without having to write it in everytime.

 

Elmo

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well you and i are in the same boat. About two months ago i had to replace the starter, battery, and cables all at the same time. I knew i needed new cables but kept putting it off and i think this put undue stress on my starter and was not keeping the battery fully charged so stressed it out as well. Three weeks ago I put a junkyard engine in the Bronco, original engine lost oil press. For the first couple of weeks it started and ran great but after driving for a couple of weeks it would leave me needing a jump after stopping at the store ten miles from the house on my way to work. So far orielyes says the battery load test good and the alt test good. When i replace the cables the only one that was not corroded was the one going to the starter from the starter relay/silinoid, there fore it didnot get replaced.

Correct diagnosis here is to verify that all battery connections are clean and tight, connections between the battery connectors and cables are clean and tight, ground connections at the frame and engine block are clean and tight, positive cable connections at the battery, silinoid, and starter are clean and tight. Visual is not good enough separate all conections clean with a wire brush or sand paper and reassemble. here is where my dad would lightly coat all joints with grease, but i have heard that this can have a negative affect on the conductive properties of the joints. Please some one chime in with any recomendations on this practice or any other recomendations. If at this point the problem still persist(most will be taken care of at this point)have the battery and alternator checked for shorted/dead cells(battery) and charging problems. I have read accounts of guys here in the Zone having to add a ground strap from the starter to the frame due to some grounding issues.

I am thinking that my problem may be from me haveing left off a ground strap when i replaced the engine, but i have not had time to look at it yet so that possibility has not been ruled out or verified. As of yet the one thing that I have not checked is how many amps the starter draws when hot starting. Even with my starter being new it could be drawing/pulling too many amps therefore being defective. If its made by man Its made to fail. Pulling excessive amps could be a result of even slightly dirty/corroded Positive or negative connections.

On the extreme outside of things excessively high(advanced) timeing will cause an engine to act like the battery is week/dead. This is not likely to be the problem on an engine that has been running and starting fine and has not had any adjustments made lately. I replaced ALL the gaskets(except the head) on this junkyard engine prior to putting it in so I did consider it to be a possibility in my case. Timeing checked out to be right where i set it at upon startup, 14 degrees with spout removed.

Please forgive my long rambling post BZone. OCD on the details.

 

Bully Bob

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TO alaskan.,

What Krafty said.. i.e. please provide more needed info.

TO Elmo.,

"here is where my dad would lightly coat all joints with grease, but i have heard that this can have a negative affect on the conductive properties of the joints. Please some one chime in with any recomendations on this practice or any other recomendations"

Nothing wrong with this. Snow, mud, salt, water crossing, etc. can affect connections.

However., there are dielectric sprays & goo now, to use on connecting plugs, wire/cable bolt-downs. (most any auto parts will have this in packets or bulk) This is a better choice.

Obviously, the mating points should be cleaned first.

 
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Rons beast

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Ditto Bully on the grease issue. It will melt and cause more problems. Go with the dilectric, or proper spray.

Elmo learned the lessons on ground cables. I too had problems that all traced to ground.

What Krafty said about the info.

Finally is the issue that the truck cranks but won't start, or it won't even crank?

 
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alaskan18

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its a 1987ford bronco with the 300 straight six and the c6 tranny.

bout 163 thousand miles.

anything else?

 

Seabronc

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its a 1987ford bronco with the 300 straight six and the c6 tranny.

bout 163 thousand miles.

anything else?
Right, but put that information in you signature file for future reference should you have any other questions.

Also, as far as grounds go, there should be one from the battery (-) to the engine block, one from the engine block to the frame, one from the fire wall to the hood, and one from the rear of the engine intake manifold to the fire wall.

In regard to the hot cold starting: If you let it run after getting hot, will it shut itself off?

Good luck,

peace.gif


 

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