Bronco sickness

Disclaimer: Links on this page pointing to Amazon, eBay and other sites may include affiliate code. If you click them and make a purchase, we may earn a small commission.

whoabegone

New member
Joined
Jan 3, 2017
Messages
15
Reaction score
0
Location
Bikini State on the redneck side
Ok new guy but OLD too. So here goes bought a 94 351w h code Eddie Bauer Bronco not running but in real good shape. Figured either the T/C or dist. module had it running 30 minutes after the wrecker dropped it off. That's when the fun started. Module was psycho did then didn't finally pulled it during a didn't and was so hot it couldn't be handled new one installed plus changed out dist got a new one with truck and squirrels  had been chewing on wires. Put a new coil in(why not) and still ran bad. Set timing by ear and ran sorta but started blowing 20 amp ignition fuses so got out wiring funny pages and found out the only high amp part in circuit was pcm power relay changed that and now runs but still not good at 1500 rpm finally got scanner for OBD 1. Truck passes KOEO about eight times but cannot retrieve DTCs or cylinder ID so set timing at top of pointer where it says time with spock removed. Runs fine idles about 900 plug spock in and barely runs plus no advance atall. Book says probably bad pcm. Any thoughts? Is buying a used one a good idea? 

Whoa begone

 

Seabronc

New member
Joined
May 22, 2004
Messages
7,315
Reaction score
35
Location
North of NYC
Without the SPOUT connected the engine is running without computer control, that is a good emergency limp method of running the engine. With the SPOUT connected the control is via the computer, the problem could be the PCM but it could also be a bad connection.  Before replacing the PCM, check all connectors for corrosion on the contacts. 

Buying a used one is like buying a used car, it could be good or not.  If you get a used one, get some sort of return agreement from the seller.

:)>-

 

miesk5

96 Bronco 5.0
Staff member
Moderator
Joined
Oct 18, 2005
Messages
9,078
Reaction score
1,035
Location
Floating in the Pacific
Yo Whoabegone,

Spark w/SPOUT Connector Un-Plugged, but Falter and/or No-Spark w/SPOUT Connected (similar to Hesitation, Stumble, Stall, Miss, No Start, No Spark); "It seems that the insulation around many PIP sensors breaks down prematurely - a condition that leads to shorting of the wires leading to the TFI ignition module. I always replace a PIP sensor along with a defective ignition module, if it has "soft" insulation...This month's column is about a Ford Ranger one of my students (Drew) said "would only run for about a mile, then die." Since we were in the middle of our electrical and engine performance unit, this vehicle would serve as a perfect troubleshooting opportunity. The story from my student went as follows: The vehicle began stalling intermittently during driving, but would usually restart right away. Sometimes, however, it would have to sit for a few minutes. Drew had replaced the ignition coil on the advice of a family friend, but the problem persisted. Next, the thick film ignition (TFI) module was replaced with a quality no-name brand from a local parts house. The stalling condition continued. Now, Drew had spent enough time with his friend to decide that the next logical course of action was to replace the entire distributor. This is where I became involved. As soon as I heard three ignition components had been replaced with no cure, I just had to mutter, "Sure, bring it in tomorrow!" The next day, I took the time to discuss with my students the proper method by which to approach this customer concern. Logical Troubleshooting Figure 1 - This is the old profile ignition pickup (PIP) sensor with defective insulation. Figure 2 - Believe it or not...Here's the original distributor with silicone around the cap sealing surface. Figure 3 - Here's the old distributor next to the new one, with the transferred ignition module. Figure 4 - New ignition coil. Figure 5 - Both the old and new spark plugs. Figure 6 - The root cause of the problem, which is the shielding wire grounding out the SPOUT signal. Troubleshooting is the process of testing a system to determine and isolate a malfunction. An automotive technician is often involved in troubleshooting a malfunctioning system on a car, such as this Ford TFI-IV ignition system. Skilled automotive techs do more than just troubleshoot - they logically troubleshoot. I tell my students they must approach this diagnosis just as a master technician would, by following a known, good, logical procedure that will isolate the root cause of the customer concern in a timely manner. The sequence I teach is: Verify the customer concern. Perform a thorough visual inspection. Test for the cause of the concern and perform published system testing. Isolate the root cause and perform the repair. Verify the repair. This is based on General Motor's Strategy-Based Diagnostics and I stress this to my students repeatedly. TSBs Drew found three technical service bulletins (TSBs) pertaining to the ignition system: TFI STALL NO START - TFI MODULE DIAGNOSIS AND SEALING: This bulletin addresses loss of module ground due to salt and moisture entering a module mounting *****. TFI ENGINE NO START/STALL AT IDLE - NEW IGNITION MODULE: This TSB talks about an internal short-circuit in some model TFI modules. DRIVEABILITY CONCERNS - MOIST EEC-IV CONNECTORS: This bulletin asks the tech to check for unsealed EEC-IV connectors and check for moisture or corrosion. Verifying the Concern, Performing the Visual Popping the hood on the Ranger revealed the new coil, new distributor cap and new TFI module screwed to the side of the distributor housing. The engine would only run for a few minutes before dying, just as though the key had been turned off. Sure enough, no spark occurred at spark testers when the no-start was present. Based on the TSB information, I directed Drew to inspect all of the EEC connectors and perform a complete inspection of all pertinent wires and components. We did notice that many of the wiring harnesses had some oil and road grime, and that there was some peeling of the wiring insulation at the EEC-IV module connector, although none of the wires appeared to be shorting. Now, Drew had already purchased a rebuilt distributor and plopped it down on our workbench. At this point I told Drew about a preliminary test that I learned to determine if the profile ignition pickup (PIP) sensor might be defective. We popped the cap and I pushed my fingernail down into the soft, gooey insulation surrounding the PIP sensor. This has historically been a red flag for techs hunting an ignition fault on Ford vehicles equipped with TFI ignition systems. It seems that the insulation around many PIP sensors breaks down prematurely - a condition that leads to shorting of the wires leading to the TFI ignition module. I always replace a PIP sensor along with a defective ignition module, if it has "soft" insulation. I liken this to replacing a high energy ignition (HEI) module in an older Delco-Remy distributor. Is it prudent to replace the ignition pickup coil while you're inside this distributor? I always let the customer make the decision, but I lobby for replacement. Drew was adamant about replacing the distributor, so I helped him through the process of marking the rotor and the housing, then swapping the TFI module from the old distributor to the new one. With this distributor installed, the Ranger now had a new ignition coil, ignition module, cap, rotor and PIP sensor. You can guess what happens next; the stalling condition is still present! Testing for the Root Cause At this point I had Drew's full attention, so we systematically walked through a proper diagnosis. A TFI testing worksheet showed a simple and systematic process that eliminates suspect parts and circuits, one-by-one, until the cause for the concern is discovered. The only problem, I explained, was that the engine would usually start right back up, and that made many of the tests ineffective. Still, we verified proper voltages at the coil, resistance across the coil and ground for the distributor. PIP Signal I decided to hook my lab scope up to the PIP and spark output (SPOUT) wires to isolate exactly where I was losing my signal to trigger the coil. The PIP signal is generated in the PIP assembly and is an indication of crankshaft position and speed. The PIP signal is fed to both the TFI module and the PCM. Hooking up to this signal with my lab scope would verify the entire distributor assembly. When the engine died and spark disappeared, the square wave produced by the PIP remained intact. SPOUT Signal The PIP signal is one of the many inputs processed by the PCM. After receiving all of its sensor inputs, the PCM produces a new signal called the SPOUT. The spark output signal represents the engine operating condition "electronically" and is sent back to the TFI module for comparison with the PIP signal. The TFI module then uses both of these signals to fire the coil at the proper timing interval. While watching the SPOUT signal on my scope, the square wave became jagged and jumpy as the engine sputtered, and then became a flat line before the engine died. Now we had a suspect - the PCM. A Break I noticed that when I unplugged the SPOUT connector to check base timing, and let the engine run at base timing, it never died. Unfortunately, this pointed me back to the PCM as a possible cause of my fault. But, when I plugged the SPOUT connector back together, I could make the engine falter and die by gently twisting the harness. Yes! I was sure I had located the fault, and I was right. Look at the figure with the yellow spark output signal wire that is without a section of insulation. This section happens to run through a shield ground that provided a convenient ground source for the SPOUT signal. Just the right bump in the road or vibration from the engine would provide a path of lesser resistance for the SPOUT signal, killing the coil trigger..."; etc. (for a Ranger, but similar);

Source: by Brian M at http://web.archive.org/web/20080808115620/http://www.asashop.org/autoinc/dec2002/techtotech.htm

SEE Hesitation, Stumble, Stall, Miss, No Start, No Spark and/or DTC 211, TSB 95-15-11 for 93-95 (Shorts in Profile Ignition Pickup (PIP) & Spark Output (SPOUT) by Ford @

http://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=131491&d=1450922816

MIESK5 NOTE; from Ford EVTM; The Control Module (PCM) runs the pump{s} for one second when it receives an ignition- on signal. It also runs the pumps as long as it receives a PIP signal from the Hall-effect devices, it continues pump operation even after the key is released from START. If the PIP signals fall below 120RPM, the control module cuts off the signal to the fuel pump relay or the integrated relay control module. The pump will also run when the terminals of the fuel pump test connector are jumped. the Control module signals the pump when it receives a CRANK signal, and when the Control module gets PIP signals that the engine is running. the pump does not run if the PIP indicates the engine is not running even with ignition ON {except for that first one second}.

See, No Codes? by Ryan M @ http://www.fuelinjectedford.com/page44.html

Check battery voltage first as he advises. I have seen some owners have voltage issues by the time they go through the KOEO portion because battery had a dead cell, or was run down by cab, engine bay lights, radio playing, etc. Or bad or corroded posts, terminals, cables or wire strands.

You know what else goes wrong.

EEC IV Connector Pin LEGEND by Ryan M @ http://web.archive.org/web/20120118104425/http://www.oldfuelinjection.com/truckpinouts.html

& EEC IV CONNECTOR PIN DIAGRAM @ http://web.archive.org/web/20120115055622/http://www.oldfuelinjection.com/?p=3

Check the EEC IV Module for leaky capacitors.

EEC IV Removal 92-96 by bossind @

http://broncozone.com/topic/25522-i-have-replaced-everything-and-still-not-starting/

Scroll down to my post #8

Also see other info there.

Capacitor Repair by seedpress @ http://broncozone.com/topic/20788-fuel-delivery-problem/

I would take a chance on a used Module if I could open it and inspect before buying. Otherwise a reman one from;

Standard Motor Products (SMP™) brand

Cardone

http://www.autocomputerexchange.com/

Westers Garage

etc.

 
OP
OP
whoabegone

whoabegone

New member
Joined
Jan 3, 2017
Messages
15
Reaction score
0
Location
Bikini State on the redneck side
yep cardone was my choice of course have to pull inner fender and get #s and wait a week. Since the pip is in side dist putting NEW dist

in solves that prob. Logical trouble shooting IS using schematics to locate components in a failing circuit. Since I KNEW the module was bad see Ford modules forever because truck shut down not stumbled just plain quit. Then there was a high draw (over 20 amps) that blew the ignition fuse. Now the only item in that circuit capable of handling that much current was the relay that was replaced and fuses quit blowing. The test procedure used to determine probable ecm failure is supplied by innova and their scanner. But ALL connections are clean and bright and coated with silicone dielectric grease (love That stuff). So I believe that forty plus years of repairing cars etc. may qualify me to diagnose decide  what's bad and replace it one prob. at a time. Oh yes fuel pressure is at spec. had a new pump and was checked as well as mechanical timing no assumptions made!

Whoabegone

 

Seabronc

New member
Joined
May 22, 2004
Messages
7,315
Reaction score
35
Location
North of NYC
yep cardone was my choice of course have to pull inner fender and get #s and wait a week. Since the pip is in side dist putting NEW dist

in solves that prob. Logical trouble shooting IS using schematics to locate components in a failing circuit. Since I KNEW the module was bad see Ford modules forever because truck shut down not stumbled just plain quit. Then there was a high draw (over 20 amps) that blew the ignition fuse. Now the only item in that circuit capable of handling that much current was the relay that was replaced and fuses quit blowing. The test procedure used to determine probable ecm failure is supplied by innova and their scanner. But ALL connections are clean and bright and coated with silicone dielectric grease (love That stuff). So I believe that forty plus years of repairing cars etc. may qualify me to diagnose decide  what's bad and replace it one prob. at a time. Oh yes fuel pressure is at spec. had a new pump and was checked as well as mechanical timing no assumptions made!

Whoabegone
If your not looking for any suggestions, why are you posting?  Sounds like you have it sown up.

:)>-

 
OP
OP
whoabegone

whoabegone

New member
Joined
Jan 3, 2017
Messages
15
Reaction score
0
Location
Bikini State on the redneck side
Right now I'm hoping to find out where ecm is located. Have a factory diagram says under hood on D/S bolted to Firewall but aside from 3 large harness plugs I see nothing and if it is located where it was on somebody's 93 I'm in a mess with half the electrical system on that inner fender. 94 Eddie Bauer 351w h code.

whoa be gone

 
OP
OP
whoabegone

whoabegone

New member
Joined
Jan 3, 2017
Messages
15
Reaction score
0
Location
Bikini State on the redneck side
Ok when I look down between the inner fender and the F/W (with a light) all I see are three harness plugs all bolted to F/w otherwise you can see all the way down then see a little grass and asplhalt but no eec. I think this 94 351w h code may have a police package. The reason being under driver's seat was an FM modem that had bee very professionally installed with a lot of cable. It's about 7:15 am here and Dark but in a while I'll go and read label for any options. Also if there is a way will post pics of this area. If eec is attached in the area shown and is in fact the regular looking ECM pictured and the style  of box I have been looking for I don't see it should be hard to miss. 

whoabegone

 

miesk5

96 Bronco 5.0
Staff member
Moderator
Joined
Oct 18, 2005
Messages
9,078
Reaction score
1,035
Location
Floating in the Pacific
Yo,

20140319_1149591.jpg

EEC IV plug on firewall below power brake booster.

pic by Jowens in a 94 5.0

1pcm_plug_location.jpg

EEC IV plug on firewall below power brake booster.

pic by BDS in a 95 5.8

...

To post a pic from your PC, TABLET, etc., just below the reply box in lower right corner, click More Reply Options

Screen will change

See Attach files

pick out the pic

Click Attach This File

or click, Try our advanced uploader (requires Flash 9)

 
OP
OP
whoabegone

whoabegone

New member
Joined
Jan 3, 2017
Messages
15
Reaction score
0
Location
Bikini State on the redneck side
OK so the one with the white insert is the the one for ecm? and I guess the ecm just pulls out of a hole? Second picture seems to show the long skinny one as ecm? but still the thing must slide int  firewall?

found two codes fdd 68 too95 first one could be FOO .

Whoabegone

 

miesk5

96 Bronco 5.0
Staff member
Moderator
Joined
Oct 18, 2005
Messages
9,078
Reaction score
1,035
Location
Floating in the Pacific
Yo,

In first pic above, that is the PCM HARNEES SIDE Connector... PCM CONNECTOR AND MOST of pcm will be seen after harness connector is un-bolted and pulled aside.

Puc #2 pic by BDS is the long skinny PCM Harness side connector. Use a 10mm Socket to remove the big harness connector.

PCM does pull out from its cavity through the engine bay as described by bossind

I can not cooy all the pics, see them yourself.

Here it us again:

http://broncozone.com/topic/25522-i-have-replaced-everything-and-still-not-starting/

Scroll down to my post #8 to see this and related pictures.

PCM, aka EEC-IV REMOVAL in 92 through 96 Bronco by bossind from Burton, Canada with some comments by jowens (I may have some pics out- of-order):

dsc_0034.jpg

The best way to do this is through the drivers side wheel well by loosening the plastic inner fender as shown.

Remove the first 4 or 5 screws holding the Inner Fender on. You will want to be able to flex the inner fender downward to clear the EEC as it is removed. I used a 3 foot section of 2x4 to push straight down on the inner fender just in front of the relay box. If you push hard enough the inner fender will flex down enough so you can pull the PCM out.

dsc_0035.jpg

Pulling back the plastic inner fender you will have access to the computer harness, this requires a 10mm socket to remove. Next you remove 2-11mm nuts on PCM rubber gourmet, remove the grommet and pull out the PCM.

dsc_0040.jpg

The rubber grommet, notice the marking for "top".

dsc_0044.jpg

Reinstall the grommet, nuts and tighten down the harness

dsc_0046.jpg

dsc_0029.jpg

...

Use a T15 torx bit to remove the PCM cover and inspect it for burns & leaking Capacitors.

You should see just 3 digit codes... all numerals, no letters.

 
Last edited by a moderator:

Elmo

Member
Joined
Dec 2, 2008
Messages
417
Reaction score
1
Location
Forsyth Georgia
the ECM on my 90 model was accessed from inside the truck. I had to disconnect the plug from under the hood then remove the ECM by way of the inside of the truck.

 

Members online

Forum statistics

Threads
22,621
Messages
136,701
Members
25,282
Latest member
79' Buckin Bronco
Top