Bronco Hard shift in second gear?

[redlight runner]

Car History info:

Hello I have a 95 Ford Bronco that I've had since mile one, the car only currently has 88,255 miles which were run by wife around town and some small highway use mixed with an occasional to the beach run or small road trips. Actually I have to get in it every now and then take it out on the highway and blow the carbon out of it simply because I know she'll hardly ever tromps it into passing gear, the car has never seen any 4X4ing unless I put it into 4wheel mode on some backwoods nasty deer hunting roads in the late fall & early winter.

Service History:

The transmission was serviced by Ford @ 60,000 miles with a filter change and all new fluid added, also the Bronco has never towed anything at any time, basically its lived the "Life of Riley" and been a porch dog.

The Problem:

Well Within the last year the Bronco has developed a "Hard Shift into second gear only" and then its completely smooth shifting thru the rest of the gear pattern without a hitch. I've asked my wife if it does it persistently or only on occasions, her answer was 95% of the time it "Hard Shifts into second" and sometimes it will shift completely smooth like it always has, this electronic shift transmission when working correctly you hardly notice or feel it shift. Anyone have an ideas of what my problem might be, I plan to keep this car till FORD start making Broncos again LoL! /emoticons/[email protected] 2x" width="20" height="20" />

 

[BroncoJoe19]

Try pulling diagnostic codes.

There are a few sensors that the PCM depends on when determining to make the trans shift.

Two of those being the Throttle Position Sensor TPS and the Vehicle Speed Sensor, the VSS.

Recently I learned that in a '90 bronco, that the MLPS may go bad and cause shifting issues. I don't know if a '95 has one, but if not it would have a TRS Transmission Range Sensor, and I guess it could have the same issues, and cause shifting problems.

A vacumm leak to the MAP sensor could also be a problem, (but I don't think that it would only be at 2nd gear)

Pull Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTCs) From your onboard computer.

Your engine and transmission are computer controlled.

The computer uses sensors to tell it a number of different things and it controls actuators that push or pull mechanical levers (kinda). If one or more sensors aren't working properly, the computer goes "blind" and doesn't know what to do. If the computer can "see" but one of the actuators is broken and therefore can't follow the commands of the computer; the engine won't run correctly. The computer is preprogrammed with set values for each of its sensors, and each of its actuators. It will run a self check of all systems, like the space shuttle; it will compare its set value(s) to the value(s) it recieves from its sensors, and actuators. If any sensor or acutator is out of the "normal" range the computer will generate a "code." It will generate some codes on the fly, and others will be stored while you are driving. There is a simple method to "pull codes" out of the computer for one to use for diagnostic purposes.

Earlier versions of On Board Diagnostics OBD 1983-1995 can flash the error code to the dash board and can be pulled in one's driveway without any special tools.

Later versions of On Board Diagnostics OBDII some 1995, and pretty much all 1996 and newer, require one to use a code reader or scanner tool.

Some auto parts stores will scan your engine codes for FREE, you may want to call around. Some will scan OBDII but not the older (prior to 1996) OBD systems.

SO here you go...

How to scan FORD on board Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTCs) in your driveway

Howto Pull Codes 1983-1995 Broncos, Mustang, F series Trucks, Econolines, 302, 351 and more

 

[miesk5]

whOOps!

Skeeter,

I just spent 35 mins replying to your post in another Bronco Forum...

And my first reply didn't take there, thanks to Comcast or that site...lol

So, here it is (again, my 3rd shot at this) in case you don't go back there to see it.

Some info will sound familiar since BroncoJoe and Steve have already cited it in their rpelies here.

Skeeter,

This is my 2nd attempt to post a Reply here; this site may have a problem or Comcast is messed up here...

We have a 96 bought new too and feel the same way.

If that was the only fluid/filter change then that could be the problem, unfortunately.

Take a look at your Sched Maint Booklet for service intervals. For the E4OD and other things such as fuel filter, lubrication of spindles, etc. to aviod future probs in other areas that are $$$ to repair.

One thing to do is to check for Codes; DIY to save the Diagnostic fee or find a parts/service shop that will scan for free.

One possibilty; bec of the poss that the E4OD fluid/filter was changed only oce and @ 60k miles is;

Transmission Control Indicator Lamp (TCIL) Flashing Diagnostic Trouble Codes 62, 628 and/or 1728 Transmission Shifts Hard TSB 98-4-19 in 90-96

I placed * next to most likely concern..more * = my best guess based on da fluid/filter

So check level and condition..shouldn't smell burnt like burnt toast or black in color. Check for leaks.

MARCH 2, 1998

LIGHT TRUCK:

1989-97 F SUPER DUTY, F-250 HD, F-350

1989-98 ECONOLINE, F-150, F-250 LD

1990-96 BRONCO

1997-98 EXPEDITION

1998 NAVIGATOR

This TSB article is being republished in its entirety to correct the vehicles listed.

ISSUE:

Some vehicles may exhibit a flashing Transmission Control Indicator Lamp (TCIL) and Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTCs) 62, 628, and/or 1728 may be stored in memory. These DTCs can be set by any internal transmission element slippage or potentially by torque converter slippage.

ACTION:

Refer to the following text when servicing these codes.

NOTE:

WHEN SERVICING A VEHICLE WITH A FLASHING TCIL WITH DTCS 62, 628 AND/OR 1728, DO NOT REPLACE THE TORQUE CONVERTER UNLESS PROPER DIAGNOSIS HAS PROVEN THE TORQUE CONVERTER TO BE THE CAUSE.

Always verify the customer concern. Proper diagnosis for DTCs 62, 628 and/or 1728 may require talking to the customer to find out if there were any other symptoms associated with the TCIL flashing, (i.e., shift concerns, erratic/early/late, proper torque converter operation, etc.), prior to noticing the TCIL flashing.

Prior to transmission repairs for DTCs 62, 628 and/or 1728 or investigating other causes, repair all non-related transmission DTCs first, then repair all other transmission DTCs other than 62, 628 and/or 1728.

Some of the other causes that may result in DTCs 62, 628 and/or 1728 are as follows:

- Aftermarket modifications (i.e., performance enhancers, electrical modifications, etc.)

- Missing shifts (some/all)

- [bTransmission fluid leakage (internal and/or external) *

- Erratic shift timing

- Valves, springs or retainers in the main control/accumulator body not assembled correctly, binding or sticking *****- Check balls missing and/or mislocated. Damaged, unable to seal/seat properly *****- Higher or lower than normal line pressure

- Transmission fluid restrictions and/or level *****- Erratic/inoperative vehicle speed and/or rpm sensor ***- Poor engine performance concerns **

Any vehicle system concerns that could cause the strategy to detect a perceived internal slippage or change in the expected rpm of internal transmission rotating components may cause DTCs 62, 628 and/or 1728 to set.

NOTE:

ONCE DTCs 62, 628 AND/OR 1728 SET, OTHER TRANSMISSION FUNCTIONAL DTCs MAY NOT SET.

--

Next is the Transmission Control Indicator Lamp (TCIL) (LED/OD SWitch at end of shifter) BLINKING?

--

Next, Check for Codes

Self Test by BroncoJoe19

http://broncozone.com/forums/index.php?sho...art=#entry74587

Remember to have engine @ Normal Operating Temperature before doing the KOER portion

----

Post codes found here.

btw, if you don't have your Owner's Guide or Sched Maint Booklet; get one for a 96; which is almost 100% equal to your year (exc for OBD II which isn't really covered in either & some accessories/optional equipt.) from Ford as a download.

Owner Guide (Manual) Free Download for any Bronco/Ford truck & other Ford vehicles for 96 to current year; register to view w/VIN; includes Warranty Guide & Scheduled Maintenance Guide Plus Recalls Performed or Outstanding, dealer service record summaries (Ford is adding entries now), etc.

Source: by Ford @ https://myford.fordvehicles.com/servlet/Con...6ord%3D15419550

--

GL

 

[redlight runner]

I did register my problem in a few other forums simply because I thought it might not get a reply, looks like some questions go unanswered in many forums. As for the problem being in the vacuum line I too thought the problem would probably be in more then first to second gear were this issue resides, a complete change of the lines is something that should happen now most definitely, I've owned this SUV 14 years their due, simple because of the cracking/leaking problems, cheap-an-nuff fix right.

re service: I went back into my records about the servicing of the trans and it was under full purchased after market warranty I'm now thinking Ford required the servicing at 40,000 along with a timely oil changes yuda, yuda. Its been awhile back I may have had it drained and refilled along with the water coolant once while getting the ac recharged around the 70,000 mark it gets a little cloudy after these years of ownership but its been well serviced guys.

You've offered some great info on my shift problem, and I'll have to find an auto part store willing to scan my engine codes for FREE. The problem might very well lay within code errors and I can resolve it there with a parts change out. Baring getting into the tranny, which can generate a BIG Loss of $$$Bucks! Thanks for the link on the code tutorial it will come in quite handy and as I find time this next weekend I plan to get those codes an to the bottom of this, I'll keep you posted on what is transpiring and of any codes #'s that come up.

miesk5 I've had the re-post wiped on me in another forum after almost completing it Comcast too a dump or froze etc which drover my blood pressure to boil off Lol, I now text it re-saving a few times to cut and paste into the forum reply, safe way to keep your blood pressure down a few notches.

 

[redlight runner]

Wow I'm hashing thru all this data your sending me an its going to take me time to digest this ;~) hey I'm just a shady tree mechanic that changes a few spark plugs, and maybe changes the brakes out lol I'll do my best to stay with ya on this Steve83. "Are you a transmission mechanic just wondering "roger that"

 

[redlight runner]

Well guys sorry not to get back on this, but had a few family problems lately. I had a trans pro take the bronco out for a long test drive, having done that we took it back to the shop and first off tore the rear pumkin apart.

Finding the spider gears all nicked ie metal on those gears broken off I opted to replace them and like Steve83 said sometimes these just need a rebuild to gettem back on track, not having one bit of expertise in automatic transmissions I had Aamco do a complete ground up rebuild $1900 or so but I know what I have now.

The better half agrees with me on keeping her baby just right but I feel 88K and the tranny shouldn't have had this kinda problem given the life the car has seen, but who am I to say. Thanks for all the info it helped me a great deal.

redlight runner /emoticons/[email protected] 2x" width="20" height="20" />

 

[broncosam43]

Well guys sorry not to get back on this, but had a few family problems lately. I had a trans pro take the bronco out for a long test drive, having done that we took it back to the shop and first off tore the rear pumkin apart.
Finding the spider gears all nicked ie metal on those gears broken off I opted to replace them and like Steve83 said sometimes these just need a rebuild to gettem back on track, not having one bit of expertise in automatic transmissions I had Aamco do a complete ground up rebuild $1900 or so but I know what I have now.

The better half agrees with me on keeping her baby just right but I feel 88K and the tranny shouldn't have had this kinda problem given the life the car has seen, but who am I to say. Thanks for all the info it helped me a great deal.

redlight runner /emoticons/[email protected] 2x" width="20" height="20" />

also if problem perists after rebuild it could be a bad diode in your alternator the way to test is to fully load the alternator and see what happens, the voltage will go all over the place if you do have a bad one mine eventually effected the whole engine circuit and the shift circuit causing it to shift way too early i had that problem with my truck and i knew that it wasnt the tranny cuz it only had 3000 on it