Bronco Coil Spring Replacement?

[Broncoholics]

I've seen some extend ridgid brake line down to the radius arm and re-use the flexable rubber brake line at the pivot point of the arm (frame end). Then run another ridgid line down the inside of the radius arm and connect to the other stock rubber line to bake calliper. Seems like a cheap way of doing it since the S.S. Brake cables are spendy. Its for street use. Off-road spend the extra bucks and get the extended S.S. lines so you don't tear them off on a rock.

 

[Kennel_Dog]

Yah that nut is a little tricky to get at. You have get a socket on it and move the ratchet along the inclined plain of the coil. That might not make much sense now, but when you get to doing it you will see what I mean.

I just recently put a 4" lift on my 87 (already wishing I had gone with the 6") and that nut was a bastard to get of even using the method seabronc described above. Is there a special tool for this job?

Shadow_D I bought the 4" version of the one your talking about and its a good kit. Ride quality is awesome and it comes with everything except the extended brake lines for the 6" likt.

 

[Shadow_D]

Cool.

Now I have to convince my better half that she can climb up in to the truck with the running boards I got for it.

I am also going for the lines, they said it would be an extra $20

 

[Seabronc]

Actually, when I took off that nut once I used a breaker bar and deep well socket. I used the breaker bar because it allows that kind of movement.

>-

 

[Wliebhard]

You'll need a deep wall socket for that spring reatining nut, at the bottom of the coil. Also, you'll need enought socket extentions to reach the bottom of the spring from the top. All I needed for mine was a sledge against the breaker bar to loosen it up. I let that sucka soak in WD-40 for a few days first. I also had to trim the stud down with my sawz-all because I didn't have a deep-wall socket.