Brake reservoir

[adt123nvegas]

Is there a secret to removing the plastic reservoir from the master cylinder of a 1992 Bronco? I r2 the master cylinder and now I cant get the reservoir off the old one. From the looks of things it just pops right out. And Chiltons says nothing about it. But I have put enough force on it that I was afraid of breaking it (cargo strap around the reservoir, stand on the cylinder, and pull) and it wont budge. I tried prying lightly with a screwdriver but am afraid of punching a hole in the bottom. Is there something I am over looking or not seeing?

Thanks for any and all help.

adt

 

[BLADE262US]

The rubber boots that the resevoir pops into have probably gotten hard through the years . I guess all I can say is pull really hard and if it breaks youll have to get a new one maybe spray some oil around them and move the resevoir back and forth to get some oil between the boot and the res , Good luck . /emoticons/biggrin@2x.png 2x" width="20" height="20" />

 

[adt123nvegas]

Eventually got it. Had to cut the top of the grommets off to give it more room to compress, but it finally came off. Thanks for your help.

But after all that, I STILL have spongy brakes. I have read of this problem before in this forum, but haven't really seen a typical repair. Will try again tomorrow.

 

[miesk5]

Eventually got it. Had to cut the top of the grommets off to give it more room to compress, but it finally came off. Thanks for your help.

But after all that, I STILL have spongy brakes. I have read of this problem before in this forum, but haven't really seen a typical repair. Will try again tomorrow.

Soft/Spongy condition;

When brakes are cold;

air in brake system; re-bleed the brake system

soft or weak hydraulic hose (expanding under pressure) - replace hose (our 96 had this prob...when in hospital last fall best half took the b to a friend mech but his new helper tied hydr hoses to spring(s) w/wire that caused internal hose damage.

Bad Master cylinder - np here

brakes are hot after about 5 miles of stop and go ;

sys. is over-heated - allow to cool and re-bleed system

brake fluid boiling or contaminated - use higher quality brake fluid

shoes need adjusting

 

[firelt90bronco]

Eventually got it. Had to cut the top of the grommets off to give it more room to compress, but it finally came off. Thanks for your help.

But after all that, I STILL have spongy brakes. I have read of this problem before in this forum, but haven't really seen a typical repair. Will try again tomorrow.

Try bleeding the brakes and then replace the master cylinder, it should fix it.

 

[adt123nvegas]

Seems to work fine now. Bled everything again and this time it was still not right. Great pedal with the engine off, but with the engine running it was spongy. Called a friend/mechanic and suggested to tap the metering valve (i think thats what it is, its mounted to the left frame rail, inboard side, with one line in and one line out to the the rear brakes, and one electrical connecter) because sometimes they freeze up. I did this and now my pedal feels great. Maybe its about to go bad, so I will keep my eyes open for a spare. Also, since we are talking about brakes, I have read a few posts about a constant rear ABS light. Mine had this everytime the fluid got low from bleeding the brakes. Fill the res. back up and the light stayed on. Couldn't figure it out, so began to look around. Found that when I refilled the res., the float inside the fill cap would stick near the bottom. Tapped it with a screwdrive, float went up, and the light went out. I am assuming that the float has a magnet and the switch underneath the res. has a magnetic sensor for lighting up the abs light when the fluid gets so low. I haven't looked at any schematic, so I don't even no if this is remotely possible or the correct operation, but its what worked for me. Please correct me if I am wrong on anything. Thanks for reading. And thanks for all that resonded.

^_^ /emoticons/happy@2x.png 2x" width="20" height="20" />