yo 90.
On the Brake Switch; one connector is for battery voltage (over 12v DC) and other connector is the feed to brake lights; so, the switch is in line from power source through Turn Signal Switch to brake lights.
Fuse still opening up?
If so,
Troubleshooting with a Test Light (low resistance) General; "...low resistance t
Source:
http://ocw.weber.edu/automotive-technology/ausv-1320-automotive-electronics/10-trouble-shooting/short-circuit-detection
or
Troubleshooting with a Self-Powered Test Light or Multi-Meter (ohmmeter) General
NOTE: Never use a self-powered test light to perform checks for opens or shorts when power is applied to the circuit under test. The test light can be damaged by outside power.
1.Isolate the circuit from power and ground.
2.Connect the self-powered test light or ohmmeter ground clip to a good ground and probe any easy-to-reach point in the circuit.
3.If the light comes on or there is continuity, there is a short somewhere in the circuit.
4.To isolate the short, probe a test point at either end of the isolated circuit (the light should be on or the meter should indicate continuity).
5.Leave the test light probe engaged and sequentially open connectors or switches, remove parts, etc. until the light goes out or continuity is broken.
6.When the light goes out, the short is between the last two circuit components which were opened.
Brake On/Off (BOO) Switch & Lights, Back-Up, License, Hazard Flash, Turn, Dome, etc. Wiring Diagram in 87-91 Bronco & F Series by AutoZone®
multi function switch shown is the Turn Signal Switch
Turn Signal Switch Replacement & Repair Info w/Tilt Wheel in an 89; similar to 80-91
"...The white plastic that takes up half the column is the turn signal switch. The red box in the top right is the steering wheel lock. When you turn the key, it goes down. The switch is only held down by two screws. One where my ***** driver is, and another, same spot, on the bottom. When I removed by wheel, I saw my top ***** sitting at the bottom of the column. Once I put the ***** back in and tightened them both up, everything was fine. The switch now stays in place, and the lever is now able to push the tilt bar backwards, releasing the wheel. I didn't have to replace my switch, but you see how easy it is now if you must do it. I thought about it - everything's off right now...spend 30 bucks and never think about this again... But then again it took me 10 minutes to get to the switch - I'll save my 30 and go drop it at poker. Check out last photo... If your turn signal does not snap back after turning, read on. Wanted to quickly explain how that works. When you lit the lever, the switch locks in place (green box in pic). There is a little ring around the steering shaft. As you turn, that ring rotates around the shaft until a little block on the ring hits an arm (red box) and the arm releases the lock. When my whole switch was loose, it moved the ring up the shaft a bit, and the little block wasn't hitting the arm. If your lever doesn't snap back after a turn, either the ring moved up, or the plastic lever and/or arm on the switch broke..."
Source: by Brahma502 at SuperMotors.net
Turn Signal Switch Repair; similar to 80-91
"...On the pre-1992, you also have the option of replacing the broken piece separately for about $9.99with a Dorman 49301. I wouldn't do it, but, I broke mine the last time I put it back together and failed to align the alignment pin which cocked the switch and broke the cancel function..."
Source: by j. r. Nice (J. R. N)
more Links in my site @
http://www.broncolinks.com/index.php?index=136
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Connectors, In-Line, Blade Type
The various connector disengagement procedures should be used when disconnecting the various types of connectors.
Disengagement Using a Screwdriver
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