Body Work

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Billy Toppless

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any here have this rust problem?

IMG_0023.JPG

im trying to figure out the best way to fix this rust problem

ive been told to fiberglass it but idk about that cuz i dont want to to come back

what would be the best method for removing the rust?

cutting and re welding a new peice?

or drilling it out, then fiberglass

any helps would be great i dont know jack **** about body work

 

crazyhorse85

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BY THE LOOKS OF THE REPAIR SOMEONE TRIED TO FIX IT WITH BODYFILLER AND DIDN'T GET ALL THE RUST OUT AND CAME BACK...LOOKS LIKE CUTTING AND WELDING A PATCH PANEL IS GOING TO BE THE BEST BET...IF YOUR GOING TO KEEP IT FOR AWHILE....I'D START BY TAKING ALL THE FILLER OUT AND SEE HOW BAD THE CANCER REALLY IS...IT MAY END UP BEING TO BIG OF AN AREA FOR GLASS...I'LL SHOW YOUR PIC TO A COUPLE OF MY BODY TECHS AND GET THERE POSITION ON IT....

 
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Billy Toppless

Billy Toppless

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BY THE LOOKS OF THE REPAIR SOMEONE TRIED TO FIX IT WITH BODYFILLER AND DIDN'T GET ALL THE RUST OUT AND CAME BACK...LOOKS LIKE CUTTING AND WELDING A PATCH PANEL IS GOING TO BE THE BEST BET...IF YOUR GOING TO KEEP IT FOR AWHILE....I'D START BY TAKING ALL THE FILLER OUT AND SEE HOW BAD THE CANCER REALLY IS...IT MAY END UP BEING TO BIG OF AN AREA FOR GLASS...I'LL SHOW YOUR PIC TO A COUPLE OF MY BODY TECHS AND GET THERE POSITION ON IT....
alright thanks

yea i grinded most of it out and then filled it in with filler but the filler didnt hold up and fell threw

it was a half ass job lol

 

crazyhorse85

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WELL,MAY NOT BE AS BAD AS I FIRST THOUGHT...MY TECH WAS POINTING OUT GRIND ALL THE FILLER OUT...CLEAN UP THE RUST WITH A SANDING DISC,AND FOR SUPPORT WELD UP AS MUCH OF THE CRACKS AS YOU CAN...AND USE A SELF-ECTHING PRIMER ON THE BARE METAL...IT'S ACID BASED HENCE THE NAME IT ETCHES INTO THE METAL SO IT KEEPS THE RUST OUT...AND THEY MAKE AN ADHESIVE GLASS MESH TO USE WTH GLASS FOR SUPPORT FOR A BETTER REPAIR .SHOULD BE ABLE TO FIND IT AT AUOTZONE OR ANY AUTO PAINT SUPPLY STORE. TAKE YOUR TIME AND I'M SURE YOU'LL DO FINE....HOPE THIS HELPS...GOOD LUCK :)>-

 
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Broncobill78

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Billy,

Welding that up is going to be the only permenant way of repairing it. You *might* get away with brazing it up & then grinding ut flush but chances are you'd warp the surrounding sheetmetal in the process. I'm just going to fiberglass the spots on mine because it's just a project to keep me busy & I fully expect my son to destroy it so I'm not investing in anything more than fiberglass & a Maaco paint job. When there's a 78'/79' in the driveway THEN it'll get fixed properly (80-96's are a dime a dozen <grin>). Bottom line here is that you're going to have to make a decision. To do it *right* you'll have to either find a bodyshop to cut it out & weld in a patch or find a solo guy qualified to do that. It needs to be cut out & a patch needs to be welded in. Anything else is a second rate repair. Now having said that, not everyone demands a top notch repair you just need to decide how long you actually plan to keep the truck. Might be that you want to look for a 95/96 and use your 88' as a donor. In a situation like that forget the bodywork, concentrate on the mechanicals that you can swap over to a newer body at a later date. If, on the other hand, you really like the truck and want to keep it into the forseeable future then the time to get a handle on that sort of problem is sooner rather than later. In the next few years the water getting in right there is going to start rotting out the area right behind door and rockerpanels if it hasn't started to already, that's just the way these trucks rust (there's a method to Ford's madness)

The fiberglass route will be a temp cosmetic fix at best. The *reason* that you (and most everyone here) has cracks there is because that's the point that sees some of the greatest stress when the body flexes. Trucks that have been garaged and never taken off-road, towed or plowed with are about the only ones that don't have this problem to one degree or another. It's the Bronco's stress point and a fiberglass repair will most likely start cracking the first time you take it off-road. Now that's not necessarily a bad thing as long as you understand it up-front. F-trucks don't see this because the bed & the cab are allowed to flex independently but since Bronco's just have the one big body tub when it torques something has to give (well, no it doesn't if it's properly reinforced but Ford didn't design them to last 50yrs doing hard work, not in their economic best interest)

 
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Billy Toppless

Billy Toppless

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Billy,
Welding that up is going to be the only permenant way of repairing it. You *might* get away with brazing it up & then grinding ut flush but chances are you'd warp the surrounding sheetmetal in the process. I'm just going to fiberglass the spots on mine because it's just a project to keep me busy & I fully expect my son to destroy it so I'm not investing in anything more than fiberglass & a Maaco paint job. When there's a 78'/79' in the driveway THEN it'll get fixed properly (80-96's are a dime a dozen <grin>). Bottom line here is that you're going to have to make a decision. To do it *right* you'll have to either find a bodyshop to cut it out & weld in a patch or find a solo guy qualified to do that. It needs to be cut out & a patch needs to be welded in. Anything else is a second rate repair. Now having said that, not everyone demands a top notch repair you just need to decide how long you actually plan to keep the truck. Might be that you want to look for a 95/96 and use your 88' as a donor. In a situation like that forget the bodywork, concentrate on the mechanicals that you can swap over to a newer body at a later date. If, on the other hand, you really like the truck and want to keep it into the forseeable future then the time to get a handle on that sort of problem is sooner rather than later. In the next few years the water getting in right there is going to start rotting out the area right behind door and rockerpanels if it hasn't started to already, that's just the way these trucks rust (there's a method to Ford's madness)

The fiberglass route will be a temp cosmetic fix at best. The *reason* that you (and most everyone here) has cracks there is because that's the point that sees some of the greatest stress when the body flexes. Trucks that have been garaged and never taken off-road, towed or plowed with are about the only ones that don't have this problem to one degree or another. It's the Bronco's stress point and a fiberglass repair will most likely start cracking the first time you take it off-road. Now that's not necessarily a bad thing as long as you understand it up-front. F-trucks don't see this because the bed & the cab are allowed to flex independently but since Bronco's just have the one big body tub when it torques something has to give (well, no it doesn't if it's properly reinforced but Ford didn't design them to last 50yrs doing hard work, not in their economic best interest)
yea im gonna have to find a shop or someone whos good enough to do it cuz i plan on keeping this truck for a while

cuz i know 30 years down the road it will be worth something enough to restore it with my kid

i have a bad feeling in the pit on my bank acount for this one.....

 

Broncobill78

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What about school ? Is it just a straight Mechanic's track or do they offer courses in bodywork ? If so then it'll be well worth signing up for them nxt semester and just doing it there w/an instructor looking over your shoulder. With an electric drill & recip we can grab a matching patch piece from one of the Broncos @ Snake Rd (assuming they're not in the same shape as yours). You might have to take a prereq first but still, for the classes you're taking a few more in bodywork will not only give you a chance to fix it cheaply & correctly but also round out what you're learning. Not too many guys left out there who do both mechanical AND bodywork & the ones that *are* left usually work for themselvs from home, set their own hours and make a pretty good living (because EVERYONE wants to be their friend <grin>)

 

madmax

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i drilled out the ends of the cracks, welded it, ground it, then leaded it, the lead is soft so it should exorb some of the stress, when I get the chance, I'll hole saw an access hole in the inside so i can lead on a reinforcement patch, I've not had sucess with body panel glue. I see whoever tried to fix it before didn't take the time to protect the cap from sanding, shame cause it's a small matter to unbolt it and slide it back a couple inches to work on it.

EDIT, what state are you in?, I have portable welding equipment.

 
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Justshootme84

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From the looks of the pic, it's hard to tell if the metal is just cracked, or if there's also rusty meteal around the cracks. I was lucky enough on my 84 that it only had cracks in the end of the rain gutters in that area. I was able to weld them closed, without replacing any sheetmetal. The metal is thin and will burn through real easy even with a MIG, so it takes some skill to seal the cracks up. If you need to cut out some rusted sheet metal, you're in for a bigger headache due to the tremendous stress in that area. I've seen where guys have added an inner metal plate to brace the area, then cover it with a new patch panel. Just using body filler or fiberglass is a waste of time, in my opinion. That does nothing to cur the rust or keep it from eating away more metal. ASlo, body filler does not hold to air, so it will break away if used to cover cracks or holes. Even with proper repair of welding the cracks, expect them to reappear in 2-4 years. Replacing the body mount bushings will help control the body flex, but the best way I found to limit the cracking problem is to install a rollcage, and tie the B-pillars into the cage. I made some simple L'shaped brackets that weld to the cage and bolt into the stock seatbelt anchor points. With the cage tied into the frame, this is a very solid solution. The seams and cracks that I welded 5 years ago have not returned. JSM84

 
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Billy Toppless

Billy Toppless

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What about school ? Is it just a straight Mechanic's track or do they offer courses in bodywork ? If so then it'll be well worth signing up for them nxt semester and just doing it there w/an instructor looking over your shoulder. With an electric drill & recip we can grab a matching patch piece from one of the Broncos @ Snake Rd (assuming they're not in the same shape as yours). You might have to take a prereq first but still, for the classes you're taking a few more in bodywork will not only give you a chance to fix it cheaply & correctly but also round out what you're learning. Not too many guys left out there who do both mechanical AND bodywork & the ones that *are* left usually work for themselvs from home, set their own hours and make a pretty good living (because EVERYONE wants to be their friend <grin>)
idk if ircc offers it or not but never hurts to check it out

ill have to when i start on the 29th

im sure most of them broncos are rusted to **** but im always down to check it out

 
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Billy Toppless

Billy Toppless

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i drilled out the ends of the cracks, welded it, ground it, then leaded it, the lead is soft so it should exorb some of the stress, when I get the chance, I'll hole saw an access hole in the inside so i can lead on a reinforcement patch, I've not had sucess with body panel glue. I see whoever tried to fix it before didn't take the time to protect the cap from sanding, shame cause it's a small matter to unbolt it and slide it back a couple inches to work on it.
EDIT, what state are you in?, I have portable welding equipment.
i live in FL so if ur near there that would be cool

and me nor my dad dont know body work

he was a motor guy so were both clueless

 

BB33's

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That isn't a very hard fix for someone with basic welding skills. I'd try to help ya but I'm in Southern CA :mellow: . I say take it to a body shop fixing that would take but a day and should cost 100 bucks Tops.

 

Broncobill78

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best way I found to limit the cracking problem is to install a rollcage, and tie the B-pillars into the cage.
Yup, that would be the way to go. Attack the root of the problem. Poly body mounts & a proper (frame mounted) cage are definately the way. I repaired this same prob on the 78' I raced (8-point frame mtd cage w/2 sets of crossties) and the problem never returned and that truck was run hard. Stop the body from flexing & the problem goes away.

 
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Billy Toppless

Billy Toppless

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That isn't a very hard fix for someone with basic welding skills. I'd try to help ya but I'm in Southern CA :mellow: . I say take it to a body shop fixing that would take but a day and should cost 100 bucks Tops.
yea ill run down to a local place and find some1

and thanks put a lotta work in2 her

 

barrett86

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i agree you have one **** of a clean bronco, she looks hella good, you should throw a light bar on top of er, YAH put like 4 6"Hella Off-Road lamps on it and be like a driving sun.

 
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Billy Toppless

Billy Toppless

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i agree you have one **** of a clean bronco, she looks hella good, you should throw a light bar on top of er, YAH put like 4 6"Hella Off-Road lamps on it and be like a driving sun.
that will be next

after the rust get fixed

along with a roof rack

 

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