Body Panel Replacement

[bu66a]

Hey Guys,

Lately I have really been looking into purchasing my first Bronco and I found one for a pretty good deal (1971 302) but it does need a bit of body work. I've been searching on here for a bit and been googling how to replace some panels, but I figured you guys are the ones to ask. Both front fenders will need to be replaced as well as the lower rear quarter panel and the tail light panels. I don't have a welder and have no body experience at all, but I love to tinker with things and try to do it myself. My question, are these pieces all bolted and no welding needed? Or do they need to be welded? By my research the front panels are just bolted on right? Thanks for your help in advance!

-bu66a

 

[Bully Bob]

Hi bu66a., welcome...

The front fenders & grill do bolt on.

The side panels that the fenders bolt to are spot welded to the wheel well. The welds can be drilled & new panels spot welded back in. (assuming yours are bad) --OR-- you can patch areas you can get to.

The back is a diff. story. Most everything is spot welded.

A little "wire-feed" welder is not expensive.... If I could teach myself to use one., anybody can. Just takes a bit of practice.

 

[bu66a]

Hi bu66a., welcome...

The front fenders & grill do bolt on.

The side panels that the fenders bolt to are spot welded to the wheel well. The welds can be drilled & new panels spot welded back in. (assuming yours are bad) --OR-- you can patch areas you can get to.

The back is a diff. story. Most everything is spot welded.

A little "wire-feed" welder is not expensive.... If I could teach myself to use one., anybody can. Just takes a bit of practice.

So is this the type of welder you are talking about?

http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200434915_200434915

So it sounds like with a little research and practice, this is doable in my garage by myself? I'm prepared that this won't be show quality, but atleast getting some straight body on this guy in preparation for some nice paint.

 

[Bully Bob]

Yep...!

I bought mine (Lincoln) several yrs. ago.., never looked back. (Always finding something to use it on.) A lot of it you'll end up "tack" welding right into the holes you drilled.

On any thru holes..., you can back it up with an aluminum block & the hole will fill & the block won't stick. (However., don't hold the block by hand..!)

You'll be surprised how well you can weld with these units.

I got the face shield that darkens automatically a few yrs. later. I like that.! There are welding blankets that catch the sparks & protect vital areas. Likely need a "Makita" with some grinding & cut-off wheels.

Your biggest challenge will be the lower 1/4 panels which I have NOT done. (didn't have to)

Some on this board have soooo..., maybe they'll chime in with some tips.

Keep us posted with your progress if you would. maybe some pics..?

Have fun.,

B

 

[monza]

I have a ton of bodywork looming.

I would like to know if u get that welder - and how easy you find it.

please post back with ur experience.

Thx,

Monza >-

 

[mikeiam82]

On any thru holes..., you can back it up with an aluminum block & the hole will fill & the block won't stick. (However., don't hold the block by hand..!)

B

Copper is better, as it wont stick or cause galvanic corrosion. Galvanic corrosion is when aluminum and steel come in contact with each other and it has the same result as rust. The 2 metals will eat each other until 1 remains and it makes a white dust rather than a red color. Using the aluminum block to weld against will guarantee the introduction of aluminum to the steel as it has a lower melting point as steel.

 

[Bully Bob]

That's odd...!!!

I was shown this yrs. ago, by a 30 yr. in the business welder, and a custom car builder.

I've backed up with the same blocks for 8-10 yrs. & the alum. blocks are like new..... no marks on them.., let alone any melting... /emoticons/[email protected] 2x" width="20" height="20" />

And no sticking.... (however, some gray smoke on them)

I grind then sand the weld/spots & there's nothing left but shiny steel..??

I'm talk'n wire-feed., not a "stick" welder.... never tried this with a "stick".

And I thought alum. had a "higher" melting temp...??? :blink:

However., most of MY welding is 1-4 second bursts.....so I'm hardly the expert. >< <'>

 

[mikeiam82]

That's odd...!!!

I was shown this yrs. ago, by a 30 yr. in the business welder, and a custom car builder.

I've backed up with the same blocks for 8-10 yrs. & the alum. blocks are like new..... no marks on them.., let alone any melting... /emoticons/[email protected] 2x" width="20" height="20" />

And no sticking.... (however, some gray smoke on them)

I grind then sand the weld/spots & there's nothing left but shiny steel..??

I'm talk'n wire-feed., not a "stick" welder.... never tried this with a "stick".

And I thought alum. had a "higher" melting temp...??? :blink:

However., most of MY welding is 1-4 second bursts.....so I'm hardly the expert. >< <'>

Melting point of aluminum is roughly 1200f-660c and steel roughly 2500f-1000c, i guess it also depends on weather the aluminum or steel is high strength or not. Im a 10 year bodyman and from what i have learned about steel and aluminum i personally would not do any welding on steel with an aluminum block. I was always taught to use copper or brass, on most 80's-90's toyotas the roof skins are brazed on all 4 corners where it meets the sail panels and windshield pillars so brass would be considered ok to use.

As for your info from the 30 year welder and hot rod builder, im not discrediting anything he said or knows as he has 30 years experience with this. All i know is what i was taught and 30 years ago people were taught very differently. For instance autobody techs used to be taught to use wet asbestos from a 25 liter pail to check for heat distribution while preforming welds or shrinks. they applied this wet asbestos with bare hands and no masks while heating it up and possibly burning it. this practice is thoroughly discouraged now because of what we know about asbestos.

I guess it all depends on weather or not you keep your block polished and make sure it doesnt get huge dents or nicks. That way you greatly reduce the risk of having pieces of aluminum getting into your steel. I personally would not take the risk and i would use brass or flattened copper pipe. thats my 2 cents /emoticons/[email protected] 2x" width="20" height="20" />

 

[Bully Bob]

That's cool..!

Ya., my bud was a foreman on the Alaska Pipe Line...& also at the Nevada Test Site. (he's a tough old salt) And a plumber/pipefitter.

Do this.... drill a hole in two sheets of body., or sheetmetal.

Clamp a block of alum. (with the two sheets/holes lined up) on the back & fill the hole with a wire feed.. & let me know what you find/think... :-B

Next time.., I'll try copper...whatever helps fill the hole.

(I think a "real" welder could do it easily W/O any block)

That's diff. not me.... /emoticons/[email protected] 2x" width="20" height="20" />

 

[mikeiam82]

That's cool..!

Ya., my bud was a foreman on the Alaska Pipe Line...& also at the Nevada Test Site. (he's a tough old salt) And a plumber/pipefitter.

Do this.... drill a hole in two sheets of body., or sheetmetal.

Clamp a block of alum. (with the two sheets/holes lined up) on the back & fill the hole with a wire feed.. & let me know what you find/think... :-B

Next time.., I'll try copper...whatever helps fill the hole.

(I think a "real" welder could do it easily W/O any block)

That's diff. not me.... /emoticons/[email protected] 2x" width="20" height="20" />

When im replacing roof skins/rocker panels/radiator supports/quarter panels in collision work we drill the top layer of spot welds leaving the bottom layer intact. All you need to do assuming you drilled the spot welds correctly is use a hammer and a chisel to pop the 2 panels apart. Then we use a type of hole punch on the new panel and weld directly to the base metal surface creating an infinitely easier weld because we eliminate the need to even use a block because your not going to have a hole through both panels. Doing this also creates a stronger weld because you will be fusing more material together and not just trying to fill a hole. also as you drill through multiple panels say 3 the bottom layer should be solid the second 5/16 and the third 3/8, you then weld in a circle starting in the center and gradually moving outwarduntil all panels are fused then make 1 last pass into the middle again and stop.