Baffled by starting issues

[WIZ]

Been getting great advice from this website in the past year and a half by just reading other issues and problem solving techniques by other members THANKS!!!.........but this one i cant figure out and had to register and ask??

Cold starts no issues cranks up fine , after 5 minutes of idle time or quick trip to the corner store it will not crank back up untill @ 2 hours of sitting...strong smell of fuel....checked for spark(GOOD) checked ignition module(GOOD),fuel pump sounds fine,engine light did start coming on when this problem started, bought a code reader, having problems retreiving codes, I can hear the test start while performing key on engine off, (the clicking of sensors and etc.) but will not show any codes. Any ideas would be much appreciated!!!!

 

[Krafty]

if it reaks of fuel then focus on diagnosing your fuel system, ie fuel pump, fuel pump relay, fuel pressure regulator, and other sensor type stuff. it helps if you include certain info in your posts like year, engine, trim level, any modifications you've made, especially if they could be linked to the problem.

 

[WIZ]

if it reaks of fuel then focus on diagnosing your fuel system, ie fuel pump, fuel pump relay, fuel pressure regulator, and other sensor type stuff. it helps if you include certain info in your posts like year, engine, trim level, any modifications you've made, especially if they could be linked to the problem.

 

[WIZ]

90 bronco 302 5.0 efi

all stock in the motor compartment

 

[miesk5]

yo WIZ,

Will that code reader perform the KOER portion? What Brand & Model is the reader?

Are all lights and accessories off incl the heater/ac/vent fan off?

some possibilities; Scan Tool Won’t Initiate Self-Test Due to Poor Grounds, Corroded Wiring, etc.; read more on how to Ground the STI & Proceed w/ Test

Source: by Jeremy M (Big 92, jermil01) at http://www.supermotors.net/registry/media/773042

Do you hear the fuel pump running continulously when you detect the gas aroma? if so ck EEC Relay and FP Relay; this describes a little of that situation;

EEC Relay (BROWN Connector, next GREEN FP Relay Connector Under hood behind air cleaner assy) Location pic in a 90 and all up to 91

Source: by Need4racin (The 90 Bronco, Dean) http://img130.imageshack.us/img130/9307/temp90pics033ru4.jpg

It's as likely to be bad corrosion at the relay socket/wiring as an internal relay fault, a bad relay rarely sets a code;

Scan Tool Won’t Initiate Self-Tests; Vehicle Battery goes Dead, Short Solenoid Body Life, 4th Gear Starts in D/High Pressure may be caused by a malfunctioning Electronic Engine Control (EEC) Relay. The EEC relay is controlled by 12 volts from the ignition switch and is responsible for supplying voltage to the computer and solenoid body. If the relay contacts stick open, the complaints are as follows: Gas engine applications won’t start, Diesel will start and run, but have 4th gear starts in D, 2nd gear in 2 and 1, and maximum line pressure. If the contacts are stuck closed, the complaints may be as follows: Both gas and diesel engine application: Scan tool won’t work, vehicle battery goes dead, short solenoid body life. Note: Watch for corroded relay terminals and connectors on 89-91 E-series vans. The relay is very close to the right side battery and prone to corrosion problems especially on diesel ambulances..." read more, Diagrams are gone

Source: by ATC-Distribution Group Inc. atcdg.com via web.archive.org

Long list here;Scan Tool Won’t Initiate Self-Tests Troubleshooting in EEC-IV; SIG-RTN, Self-Test Output circuit, etc.

Source: by Ryan M (Fireguy50) at http://fordfuelinjection.com/index.php?p=44

"Check EEC relay"

if it's a relay (EEC or FP or both)

EEC & Fuel Pump Relay Color Codes for Troubleshooting/Swapping to Bosch Style Relays

Source: by Steve83 (Steve, That dirty old truck) at http://www.supermotors.net/registry/media/507189

EEC & Fuel Pump Relay Swapping to Bosch Style Relays

Source: by Steve83 (Steve, That dirty old truck) at http://www.supermotors.net/registry/media/507187

Bosch Overview, Schematics, etc.

Source: by Craig U at http://www.classictruckshop.com/clubs/earlyburbs/projects/bosch/relay.htm

 

[WIZ]

90 bronco 302 5.0 efi

all stock in the motor compartment

i bought the innova 3145 (will double check all accesories off, next time i try to test). Daughter drives it back and forth to school and its been running and showing no engine light, although it still wont start immediatlry after having been running a while. on a positive note i did something right when tweaking the distributor cause she has a short 1 mile exit to exit drive on the freeway and said she has never got up to 65mph(which means 71mph due to tire size) so quickly.

i am gonna try jumper method for the ground for the code reader as soon as i get a chance, can relays be tested or just buy new ones????

thanks for all the ideas !!!!

 

[WIZ]

yo WIZ,

Will that code reader perform the KOER portion? What Brand & Model is the reader?

Are all lights and accessories off incl the heater/ac/vent fan off?

some possibilities; Scan Tool Won’t Initiate Self-Test Due to Poor Grounds, Corroded Wiring, etc.; read more on how to Ground the STI & Proceed w/ Test

Source: by Jeremy M (Big 92, jermil01) at http://www.supermotors.net/registry/media/773042

Do you hear the fuel pump running continulously when you detect the gas aroma? if so ck EEC Relay and FP Relay; this describes a little of that situation;

EEC Relay (BROWN Connector, next GREEN FP Relay Connector Under hood behind air cleaner assy) Location pic in a 90 and all up to 91

Source: by Need4racin (The 90 Bronco, Dean) http://img130.imageshack.us/img130/9307/temp90pics033ru4.jpg

It's as likely to be bad corrosion at the relay socket/wiring as an internal relay fault, a bad relay rarely sets a code;

Scan Tool Won’t Initiate Self-Tests; Vehicle Battery goes Dead, Short Solenoid Body Life, 4th Gear Starts in D/High Pressure may be caused by a malfunctioning Electronic Engine Control (EEC) Relay. The EEC relay is controlled by 12 volts from the ignition switch and is responsible for supplying voltage to the computer and solenoid body. If the relay contacts stick open, the complaints are as follows: Gas engine applications won’t start, Diesel will start and run, but have 4th gear starts in D, 2nd gear in 2 and 1, and maximum line pressure. If the contacts are stuck closed, the complaints may be as follows: Both gas and diesel engine application: Scan tool won’t work, vehicle battery goes dead, short solenoid body life. Note: Watch for corroded relay terminals and connectors on 89-91 E-series vans. The relay is very close to the right side battery and prone to corrosion problems especially on diesel ambulances..." read more, Diagrams are gone

Source: by ATC-Distribution Group Inc. atcdg.com via web.archive.org

Long list here;Scan Tool Won’t Initiate Self-Tests Troubleshooting in EEC-IV; SIG-RTN, Self-Test Output circuit, etc.

Source: by Ryan M (Fireguy50) at http://fordfuelinjection.com/index.php?p=44

"Check EEC relay"

if it's a relay (EEC or FP or both)

EEC & Fuel Pump Relay Color Codes for Troubleshooting/Swapping to Bosch Style Relays

Source: by Steve83 (Steve, That dirty old truck) at http://www.supermotors.net/registry/media/507189

EEC & Fuel Pump Relay Swapping to Bosch Style Relays

Source: by Steve83 (Steve, That dirty old truck) at http://www.supermotors.net/registry/media/507187

Bosch Overview, Schematics, etc.

Source: by Craig U at http://www.classictruckshop.com/clubs/earlyburbs/projects/bosch/relay.htm

bought the innova 3145 (will double check all accesories off, next time i try to test). Daughter drives it back and forth to school and its been running and showing no engine light, although it still wont start immediatlry after having been running a while. on a positive note i did something right when tweaking the distributor cause she has a short 1 mile exit to exit drive on the freeway and said she has never got up to 65mph(which means 71mph due to tire size) so quickly.

i am gonna try jumper method for the ground for the code reader as soon as i get a chance, can relays be tested or just buy new ones????

thanks for all the ideas !!!!

 

[miesk5]

yo,

You can disconnect the relay and test it using this by Steve83;

EEC PWR

30 - Y (battery always 12V)

87 - Bu, DB, R (out to EEC)

85 - Wh/LB, R/LG (12V in from ig.sw.)

86 - Bk/LG, Bk (ground)

or swap to the better quality Bosch Style Relays used in 92-96;

EEC & Fuel Pump Relay Swapping to Bosch Style Relays

Source: by Steve83 (Steve, That dirty old truck) at http://www.supermotors.net/registry/media/507187

 

[2percent]

the eec and fuel pump relays can be tested very easily. Just hold it in your hand and have someone turn key on but don't start it. If they click they should be making contact. If you feel there is still a doubt you can test them with a test light and probe the wires leading to and from the relay.

 

[WIZ]

the eec and fuel pump relays can be tested very easily. Just hold it in your hand and have someone turn key on but don't start it. If they click they should be making contact. If you feel there is still a doubt you can test them with a test light and probe the wires leading to and from the relay.

 

[WIZ]

done scratching my head!!!! aint got much hair left!!!! took it to the my mechanic.... will let you all know what was the problem.....uggghhh!!!!

 

[WIZ]

been out of town, but mechanic called me and told me it took him 3 days to figure it out, after pullin his hair out also he narrowed it down to a freakin temp sensor gauge...didnt get many details, will get them monday when i pick it up.. thanks for everyone help!!!!

 

[Devil Dog08]

glad you solved the problem . i have heard on here by many when using the hand held computer you MUST be sure the radiator and resivior is is full. i never knew why but the answer you mech told you for your problem kind of explains