axel wrap

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fordgt

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i have a 79 on 38's everytime the tires wont to grab the axel spins blowing the u joint at the back of the driveshaft and spitting out the blocks for the lift. what would be the fix to this.

 

Foul Al

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i have a 79 on 38's everytime the tires wont to grab the axel spins blowing the u joint at the back of the driveshaft and spitting out the blocks for the lift. what would be the fix to this.
do you have a lift on it for the big tires?if so, how high? just a thought...

 

Justshootme84

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The best solution would be an anti-wrap bar connecting the axle to the frame. A few companies make them. Looks like a single ladder bar, mounted perpendicular to the axle, with bushings on the ends. If I find a thread with a pic or link, I'll post it, JSM84

 
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fordgt

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The best solution would be an anti-wrap bar connecting the axle to the frame. A few companies make them. Looks like a single ladder bar, mounted perpendicular to the axle, with bushings on the ends. If I find a thread with a pic or link, I'll post it, JSM84
thank you

 

green streak

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sounds like you might need a longer driveshaft.

 
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aqua_wonder

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Replace with the blocks with a set of lifted leaf springs. I ran 38's with 6-8" inches of block under the factory springs for a short while. The rear always moved since it pivoted on the blocks. I installed a set of 6" procomp lifted leaf springs for like 350 bucks. Never had another problem. Articulation was a tad better too.

 
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fordgt

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Replace with the blocks with a set of lifted leaf springs. I ran 38's with 6-8" inches of block under the factory springs for a short while. The rear always moved since it pivoted on the blocks. I installed a set of 6" procomp lifted leaf springs for like 350 bucks. Never had another problem. Articulation was a tad better too.
hey how was the rest of the factory drive line on the 38's after the axle stopped wrapping up?

 

aqua_wonder

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I think for the most part the driveline held up for a F150 on 38's. I broke a few u-joints in the front axles. I never broke any joints on either driveshafts. I had 8" of suspension lift which caused binding on the front driveshaft at the yoke on the transfer case, without a cv. I had a stronger slip yoke installed and just machined the yoke's a tad and never touched again. Only had one rear axel snap, but I think that was from age with stress. I had 4.56's with a detroit locker in the rear and truetrac in front. I would suggest against a truetrac if running 38's. I ended up toasted mine.

 
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fordgt

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I think for the most part the driveline held up for a F150 on 38's. I broke a few u-joints in the front axles. I never broke any joints on either driveshafts. I had 8" of suspension lift which caused binding on the front driveshaft at the yoke on the transfer case, without a cv. I had a stronger slip yoke installed and just machined the yoke's a tad and never touched again. Only had one rear axel snap, but I think that was from age with stress. I had 4.56's with a detroit locker in the rear and truetrac in front. I would suggest against a truetrac if running 38's. I ended up toasted mine.
hey do you know if a 1330 yoke fitts right in to the 9 rear end? and is a cv yoke better than a non cv yoke?

 
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fordgt

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I think for the most part the driveline held up for a F150 on 38's. I broke a few u-joints in the front axles. I never broke any joints on either driveshafts. I had 8" of suspension lift which caused binding on the front driveshaft at the yoke on the transfer case, without a cv. I had a stronger slip yoke installed and just machined the yoke's a tad and never touched again. Only had one rear axel snap, but I think that was from age with stress. I had 4.56's with a detroit locker in the rear and truetrac in front. I would suggest against a truetrac if running 38's. I ended up toasted mine.
hey do you know if a 1330 yoke fitts right in to the 9 rear end? and is a cv yoke better than a non cv yoke?

 

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