anyone good at noise detecting?

[broncostyle]

After driving a few miles when my bronco has warmed up a lil, there is a slight bump bump noise that sounds like slack somewhere, when i brake hard to come to a complete stop and let off the brake i here it again. i brought it to a local mechanic and he says that's how all the 96 broncos are, i am not satisfied with his assumption and is why i decided to sign up to this forum. anyone else having this problem?

 

[miesk5]

yo, Welcome to da ZONE!

Where do you think this is coming from, front or rear, driver/or pass. side?

If you can't determine above, have a helper stand-by while you brake to figure it out.

Then, helper can use a length of garden hose to use as a stethoscope to narrow it down.

could be a few things..

U-joints going out on the driveshaft,

slip shaft needs greasing; get under and see if there is any side to side movement with the ujoints on the driveshaft, there shouldnt be any side movement at all;

Instead of sliding into the t-case like a car driveshaft would into a trans, a Bronco driveshaft normally is two pieces that slide together. The slipshaft is normally covered by a rubber boot in the middle.

Removal

CAUTION: Under no circumstances is the driveshaft to be clamped in the jaws of a vise or similar holding fixture. Denting or localized fracture of the tube may result, which may cause driveshaft failure during vehicle operation.

To remove the rear driveshaft (4602) on Bronco, index mark the driveshaft in relation to the transfer case and rear axle companion ******. Disconnect the double Cardan U-joint from the ****** at the transfer case and the single U-joint from the ****** at the rear axle (4001). Wrap tape around the bearing caps to prevent the bearings from falling off the U-joint spiders. Remove the driveshaft.

To install the rear driveshaft on Bronco, position the single U-joint end of the driveshaft to the rear axle with index marks aligned and install the four bolts.

Position the double Cardan joint to the transfer case with index marks aligned and install the four bolts.

Tighten the bolts at the transfer case and the rear axle to 83-118 Nm (61-87 lb-ft).

http://www.thedieselstop.com/faq/9497faq/maint/stj/images/e2258g.gif

1 4635 Double Cardan Assembly

2 4635 U-Joint Assembly

3 4784 Driveshaft Center Yoke

4 4782 Driveshaft Centering Socket Yoke

5 — Centering Spring

(Part of 4635)

6 7B214 Transfer Case Yoke (******)

7 4841 Driveshaft Slip Yoke

The front axle driveshaft used on F-150, F-250, F-350 4x4 and Bronco vehicles connects the power flow from the transfer case to the front drive axle. It incorporates two single Cardan universal joints (U-joints one double Cardan on F-350 4x4) a driveshaft with a splined stub shaft end, and a slip yoke boot with two slip yoke boot clamps, one large and one small.

Driveshafts, F-150, F-250 4x4 and Bronco 4x4

Item Part Number Description

1 4635 Universal Joint

2 — Bearing (Part of 4635)

3 — Snap Ring (Part of 4635)

4 — Seal (Part of 4635)

5 — Spider (Part of 4635)

6 — Splined Stub Shaft

(Part of 4602)

7 4421 Slip Yoke Boot

8 4841 Driveshaft Slip Yoke

9 — Boot Groove (Part of 4841)

10 4K227 Large Clamp

11 4K227 Small Clamp

12 4602 Driveshaft

13 — Front Driveshaft Yoke

(Part of 4602)

When you check the u-joints, park it on a flat spot, block the wheels & put it in neutral. That way the driveshaft will be free to move if the u-joints are bad.

Some guesses;

Clunk-Early Wear TSB 96-23-15 for 73-96; "... A clunking noise may be heard from the upper and lower ball joints on some vehicles. This may be due to early wear of the joints caused by entry of water and contamination into the ball area. ACTION: Replace the ball joints with a new integral seal design ball joint. Refer to the following Application Chart for correct part usage. The new ball joint should reduce the possibility of moisture and contamination into the ball joint. Refer to the appropriate Service Manual for removal and installation procedure..." by Ford via Chilton

Source: by Ford

Clunk from Steering Column on Accelerating & Braking TSB 96-25-21 for 96 Bronco & 96-97 Ford Trucks; "..."clunk" noise heard/felt through the steering column when maneuvering in parking lots, driving in stop-and-go traffic, and driving over bumps may occur on some vehicles. This may be due to a "slip-stick" condition of the slider spring to the outer tube of the lower steering shaft. ACTION: Replace the lower steering column shaft assembly with a revised Lower Steering Column Shaft (-3B676-) assembly. For removal and installation procedure, refer to the appropriate year F-150/F-250 Service Manual..."

F7TZ-3B676-AA Lower Steering Column Shaft (1996 Vehicles)

Source: by Ford

...

Another common complaint of the 1356 is that it will sometimes exhibit a driveline thump or clunk on take off. Many shops have spent considerable time balancing drive shafts, replacing u-joints, mounts, etc. without success. The problem lies inside the transfer case itself. A careful examination of the rear output shaft will reveal excessive end play between the shaft and the rear bearing, and between the rear bearing and the extension housing. You should use shims to take up the endplay between the output shaft and the rear bearing retaining snap ring (figure 7). You can use Chrysler part #00015128 for a shim kit that will enable you to take up the endplay between the bearing and the output shaft snap ring...Figure 8 shows how to take up slack between the rear output bearing and the extension housing using Spicer shim kit 701121X which fits the outside of the bearing and prevents it from traveling rearward against the extension housing. This shim is designed for a pinion shim in a Dana 35 rear end and fits perfectly. By using these methods to fix the endplay of the output shaft you will solve many problems that have baffled dealers and other repair shops for years..."), some Figures are gone

source is:

http://www.atra.com/gears/sep01/taming.html

__________________

A usual Bronco driveline clunk on a fwd movement from a stop is da driveshaft slip joint

Clunk, Driveshaft in a 96; "...take it out, mark it, and separate it at the slip yoke. Grease the splines heavily, and put it back together, using new clamps on the rubber boot. Be sure to mark it before taking it apart, in order to line the splines up the same way. You can also drill and tap and install a zerk fitting in the outer part of the shaft..."

Source: by spdloader

==

I'll try to edit this later; whenev I add an Image or c&p from my website to here; the screen jumps about 12 lines and I get all Xeyed...

GL!

 

[monch915]

Check the bushings where the radius arms connect to the frame. I had a similar problem when I purchased my bronco. Those suckers were practically gone! Had em replaced with some tougher ones (according to the mechanic anyway). I think they said they were poly eurethane,or something like that.

 

[broncostyle]

yo, Welcome to da ZONE!

Where do you think this is coming from, front or rear, driver/or pass. side?

If you can't determine above, have a helper stand-by while you brake to figure it out.

Then, helper can use a length of garden hose to use as a stethoscope to narrow it down.

could be a few things..

U-joints going out on the driveshaft,

slip shaft needs greasing; get under and see if there is any side to side movement with the ujoints on the driveshaft, there shouldnt be any side movement at all;

Instead of sliding into the t-case like a car driveshaft would into a trans, a Bronco driveshaft normally is two pieces that slide together. The slipshaft is normally covered by a rubber boot in the middle.

Removal

CAUTION: Under no circumstances is the driveshaft to be clamped in the jaws of a vise or similar holding fixture. Denting or localized fracture of the tube may result, which may cause driveshaft failure during vehicle operation.

To remove the rear driveshaft (4602) on Bronco, index mark the driveshaft in relation to the transfer case and rear axle companion ******. Disconnect the double Cardan U-joint from the ****** at the transfer case and the single U-joint from the ****** at the rear axle (4001). Wrap tape around the bearing caps to prevent the bearings from falling off the U-joint spiders. Remove the driveshaft.

To install the rear driveshaft on Bronco, position the single U-joint end of the driveshaft to the rear axle with index marks aligned and install the four bolts.

Position the double Cardan joint to the transfer case with index marks aligned and install the four bolts.

Tighten the bolts at the transfer case and the rear axle to 83-118 Nm (61-87 lb-ft).

http://www.thedieselstop.com/faq/9497faq/maint/stj/images/e2258g.gif

1 4635 Double Cardan Assembly

2 4635 U-Joint Assembly

3 4784 Driveshaft Center Yoke

4 4782 Driveshaft Centering Socket Yoke

5 — Centering Spring

(Part of 4635)

6 7B214 Transfer Case Yoke (******)

7 4841 Driveshaft Slip Yoke

The front axle driveshaft used on F-150, F-250, F-350 4x4 and Bronco vehicles connects the power flow from the transfer case to the front drive axle. It incorporates two single Cardan universal joints (U-joints one double Cardan on F-350 4x4) a driveshaft with a splined stub shaft end, and a slip yoke boot with two slip yoke boot clamps, one large and one small.

Driveshafts, F-150, F-250 4x4 and Bronco 4x4

Item Part Number Description

1 4635 Universal Joint

2 — Bearing (Part of 4635)

3 — Snap Ring (Part of 4635)

4 — Seal (Part of 4635)

5 — Spider (Part of 4635)

6 — Splined Stub Shaft

(Part of 4602)

7 4421 Slip Yoke Boot

8 4841 Driveshaft Slip Yoke

9 — Boot Groove (Part of 4841)

10 4K227 Large Clamp

11 4K227 Small Clamp

12 4602 Driveshaft

13 — Front Driveshaft Yoke

(Part of 4602)

When you check the u-joints, park it on a flat spot, block the wheels & put it in neutral. That way the driveshaft will be free to move if the u-joints are bad.

Some guesses;

Clunk-Early Wear TSB 96-23-15 for 73-96; "... A clunking noise may be heard from the upper and lower ball joints on some vehicles. This may be due to early wear of the joints caused by entry of water and contamination into the ball area. ACTION: Replace the ball joints with a new integral seal design ball joint. Refer to the following Application Chart for correct part usage. The new ball joint should reduce the possibility of moisture and contamination into the ball joint. Refer to the appropriate Service Manual for removal and installation procedure..." by Ford via Chilton

Source: by Ford

Clunk from Steering Column on Accelerating & Braking TSB 96-25-21 for 96 Bronco & 96-97 Ford Trucks; "..."clunk" noise heard/felt through the steering column when maneuvering in parking lots, driving in stop-and-go traffic, and driving over bumps may occur on some vehicles. This may be due to a "slip-stick" condition of the slider spring to the outer tube of the lower steering shaft. ACTION: Replace the lower steering column shaft assembly with a revised Lower Steering Column Shaft (-3B676-) assembly. For removal and installation procedure, refer to the appropriate year F-150/F-250 Service Manual..."

F7TZ-3B676-AA Lower Steering Column Shaft (1996 Vehicles)

Source: by Ford

...

Another common complaint of the 1356 is that it will sometimes exhibit a driveline thump or clunk on take off. Many shops have spent considerable time balancing drive shafts, replacing u-joints, mounts, etc. without success. The problem lies inside the transfer case itself. A careful examination of the rear output shaft will reveal excessive end play between the shaft and the rear bearing, and between the rear bearing and the extension housing. You should use shims to take up the endplay between the output shaft and the rear bearing retaining snap ring (figure 7). You can use Chrysler part #00015128 for a shim kit that will enable you to take up the endplay between the bearing and the output shaft snap ring...Figure 8 shows how to take up slack between the rear output bearing and the extension housing using Spicer shim kit 701121X which fits the outside of the bearing and prevents it from traveling rearward against the extension housing. This shim is designed for a pinion shim in a Dana 35 rear end and fits perfectly. By using these methods to fix the endplay of the output shaft you will solve many problems that have baffled dealers and other repair shops for years..."), some Figures are gone

source is:

http://www.atra.com/gears/sep01/taming.html

__________________

A usual Bronco driveline clunk on a fwd movement from a stop is da driveshaft slip joint

Clunk, Driveshaft in a 96; "...take it out, mark it, and separate it at the slip yoke. Grease the splines heavily, and put it back together, using new clamps on the rubber boot. Be sure to mark it before taking it apart, in order to line the splines up the same way. You can also drill and tap and install a zerk fitting in the outer part of the shaft..."

Source: by spdloader

==

I'll try to edit this later; whenev I add an Image or c&p from my website to here; the screen jumps about 12 lines and I get all Xeyed...

GL!

 

[broncostyle]

Thank you guys very much for the warm welcome and the much needed info, I checked all that was suggested to me in the post. the bushings on one side was a lil chewed up but the problem is coming from the rear, we put it on the lift rack and looked around a bit, I seem to believe that the slack is coming from either the t-case where the yoke slides in or the rear end where the shaft meets, maybe this weekend i will also try what was suggested in this post, thanks again guys.

Daniel.