AIR pump and EGR fix? Also what is this?

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harbinger

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Previous owner removed air pump and let the EGR tube rust in half. Also I've been working on setting the vacuum back up the how it should be. I've done a good bit of research, but I think it's time to enlist the pros. 

Green vac line goes to EGR, not vac tree. Correct?

IMG_20141103_082142_812.jpg

Where are the holes that need to be plugged for the AIR/smog pump?

Here are some pics of the suspects. 

IMG_20141103_084449_563.jpg

Right above the starter?

IMG_20141103_084504_700.jpg

Are they on the back of the heads?

IMG_20141103_084609_964.jpg

Above is on the driver side above the transmission. Below is the passenger side right above the transmission dipstick tube. 

IMG_20141103_084638_160.jpg

And can anyone identify this wire or what it should be connected to?

IMG_20141103_082245_287.jpg

 

miesk5

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yo H,

yes, green to EGR as shown below;

Vac hose R&R in 89 F 150 (same as Bronco)

Source: by Booba5185 http://fullsizebronco.com/forum/showthread.php?t=192382

and more info in my Vac Leak Test at http://broncozone.com/topic/23994-90-58l-getting-continuous-code-33-and-running-code-44/ post #11

Stainless Steel Thermactor Smog Plugs the holes in the back of your cylinder heads when removing the exhaust crossover tube. Comes with 2 stainless plugs and Loctite. Hex head makes installation easy when the engine is still in the vehicle.

http://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0063/4532/products/thermactor_plugs_large.jpg?100386

Bruno wrote about these; "...the diameter and thread pitch is 5/8-11. I went to the bolt shop and bought 4- 5/8-11 x 3/4" stainless steel bolts. The cost was $7.29. A person could get off quite a bit cheaper if they could find just a regualr grade 5 in the same configuration and either paint them or leave them *****. I would assume this could have been for $2-$3 if I went that route. I used ARP thread sealant on the threads. I used the same sealer(reccomended by ARP) to install my rocker studs in the heads. So I am assuming it will hold up. If not Loctite makes a thread sealant used in boiler and hydraulic applications labeled 545. This stuff is much thinner and is very similiar to the consistency of their thread locker product. I went with the ARP sealant b/c the thread pitch is so coarse on these bolts I was worried it wouldnt seal well.

The only thing I would say to watch out for when doing this is to not crank down on the bolts with a lot of torque. The location of the thermactor port is over to the side of the head and isnt very thick there. It looks as though a person could break the head very easily and open up a can worms. I tightened mine down with an end wrench. The head was a 15/16". If I had to guess at how much torque I put them under I would say 45-50 ftlbs .

Good luck! The bolt size is a little uncommon as far as the thread pitch goes. I have a fastener supplier that I do a lot business with and they had them in stock. I considered using a set ***** with the same dimensions , but , the machine supplier only had them in 3-1/2" lengths. I used a set of calipers to measure the depth of the thermactor port before I explored my options. I did this so I wasnt limited to one length and it increased the chances of finding something that would work. The port depth measured out to be just a little longer than 1-1/2" maybe 1-5/8". I would assume a 1-1/2" length would work as well.

351 and 302 heads are reversible. In other words there is no left or right head .So there is thermactor port on both ends of each head as well as threaded holes for the accesories on both ends.

I ran the bolts in and out while blowing the hole out with the compressor and blow gun. Then wiped the doo doo off of the bolt before applying the thread sealer..."

SOURCES;

EGR Tube (also called, AIR Tube), Crossover Tubes, Check Valves, O2 Sensor Repair Bungs, High Temp Silicone Hose, etc. for Bronco & all Ford, w/Ford Part Numbers & pics; miesk5 NOTE; "...EGR, Source: by PCI Inc

great customer servcice!! they see direct or thru NAPA..etc.

http://www.pciinc.com/

Maybe someone else can reply to other Qs such as pump bolts;

 
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harbinger

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I like the part about the doodoo. anyway, I can't seem to find the location?  am I on the right track with the photos above? are the holes on the sides or the rear of the heads?

 

miesk5

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yo H,

two ports on the back of the heads see - pic below.

emissionsv8.jpg

Diverter & Bypass Valves, Hoses, Crossover Tube, EGR Valve, PCV Port & Smog Pump Location pic in an 88 F 150 5.0

Source: by Steve

secondaryair.jpg

------

vaclinesefi.jpg

Typical EFI Vacuum Lines (V8 shown; I6 similar)

NOT SHOWN: pre-'93 vacuum cruise servo, brake booster hose & check valve

For colored hard plastic vacuum lines:

RED is the Ford standard color for manifold vacuum

BLACK (hard plastic only) is the Ford standard color for checked or reservoir vacuum

PINK is the Ford standard color for TAB

YELLOW is the Ford standard color for TAD

GREEN is the Ford standard color for EGR

WHITE is the Ford standard color for the fresh/recirc door for the HVAC system

Early 2-port HVAC check valve shown. Most trucks use a 3-port check valve that connects to the HVAC reservoir.

--

02smogpump.jpg

Smog Pump pulled showing bolt holes

---

 

miesk5

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These holes?

attachicon.gif
emissionsv8 copy.jpg
Yes,

Unless someone else with 86-91 Bronpo has other info; Ford mage changes to Secondary Air System through years; such s in 96 where 5.0 had smog pump, TAD/TAB solenoids, valves, etc. but 5.8 did Mot have Secondary Air sys because of model year engine/ emission improvements

The upstream air (going to the heads) pre-burns some of the fuel coming out of the exhaust ports, and helps generate enough heat to get the cats working. The downstream air (going to the cats) provides Oxygen & Nitrogen for them to work.

 
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harbinger

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Awesome. I don't think I'm going to reinstall the air pump so I'll just plug them... unless they already are. How bad would that be to drive around with those holes wide open?

 

miesk5

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yo H,

I see you are here in this thread, so instead of editing thus you possibly missing the edit;

Check TAB and TAB solenoids next to Coil; some use the elimination resistors when bypassing the Air Sys.

also;

look for this EGR Eliminator & TAB/TAD Eliminator;

http://web.archive.org/web/20070221131457/http://rjminjectiontech.com/?p=9

http://web.archive.org/web/20131107051157/http://www.rjminjectiontech.com/

"Remove the EGR for a cleaner look and cooler intake air. The EGR system adds heat and carbon deposits to the intake manifold. EGR Valve Position Sensor Eliminators send a 0.50volt CLOSED EGR signal to the computer. The computer then knows the EGR is permanently closed. Keeps the annoying CHECK ENGINE light OFF, and more importantly keeps the engine running smoothly. Guaranteed to work on any 1986-93 5.0L Mustang! Also works on most 1986-95 Ford that uses the Light Gray EGR valve position sensor; which has a closed reading of 0.24 – 0.67 volts. Without this the computer will assume the EGR is stuck open when removed, causing a rough running engine. We can't guarantee these will work on every 1986-95 Ford, but the only other option is a custom chip for the computer, which typically costs $350 or more. While the only option for 1996 and newer Fords is a custom tuned chip for the computer.

Made with original Ford parts that plug into your stock wiring harness EGR Position Sensor connector under the hood."

by Ryan M - he is out of business now so just showing his former site for info only

 

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