air cleaner et al

[PFS]

I'm trying to reassemble and repair the evap system on my '74 with a 302. At some point, a PO removed the air cleaner and all the ducting and everything up to it. He replaced it with a K&N style air cleaner. Now when it's hot and I have it parked in the garage, it reeks. (...and don't tell me to not to park in the garage when it's hot... /emoticons/[email protected] 2x" width="20" height="20" /> ). I have the canister and the vapor separator thingy behind the driver's seat, but I'm having a bit of difficulty procuring that whole air cleaner assembly. Any ideas on suppliers?

 

[Bully Bob]

Hi Pete, nice rig..!

IMHO the K&N is a big waste of $$ but, it shouldn't cause any odor. :-&

What exactly is this "reek" smell..? Is it an "oily" smell or "fuel"..?

Is it that odor that sticks in your nose & on your clothes from being in the inclosed area..? If so.., it's a tuning & mixture issue.

I've had 4 EB's with aft. mkt. air filters -or- the hoses removed fr. the stock filter & housing. None produced any odor... they could idle in the garage W/the door opened, hot or cold & nothing but that normal clean exhaust smell that ****** goes away.

A "run-out" eng. will have that "crankcase" odor. Or a bad PCV valve/system can cause odor.

But for resto on that system, JBG (who sponsors this site) & Toms Bronco Parts have used parts to re-install back to stock.

 

[PFS]

Hey Bob,

Jeez, I haven't done this for a while...I have to be more clear on what the heck I'm talking about. The "reek" is definitely a fuel smell and when I say "hot" I mean ambient temperature. The PO also removed the charcoal canister, so I bought a new one at a local boneyard but haven't installed yet. I figured if I reconnected all that stuff correctly, it would mitigate the fuel smell by storing and then burning the fumes from the fuel tank...like I believe it was (quite cleverly) designed to do. It's pretty strong sometimes, but it runs like a champ otherwise.

I tried those places a few months ago, but maybe they've gotten some new bits in lately. I'll give 'em a try.

Thanks!

 

[Bully Bob]

"...storing and then burning the fumes from the fuel tank...like I believe it was (quite cleverly) designed to do."

Yes, this was a fine system...! BUT, as I recall, it was there via the demands of the famous "EPA"

All things being equal.., there should be no fuel smell (unless you get up real close, & over the eng., a slight odor) with or without the capture system. Even with no air filter/housing.., there should be no smell to speak of.

I would be looking for fuel seepage (doesn't need to drip) that slowly comes out & evaporates into the air.

Suspects would be the fuel pump.., (it has a weep hole) carb. gaskets, filters, old rubber lines, hard lines, etc.

A bad needle & seat would over fill the float bowl.., as would a bad or improper adj. float.

Do keep us posted... this is pretty important, i.e. having fumes floating 'round.

B

 

[PFS]

Well, now I think I'll check all the things you mentioned before I search further for the air cleaner assy. I didn't want the ac assy strictly to keep the fumes in, it was just part of the overall evap system that I was trying to repair. I started this process about six months ago, got real busy with work over summer, and am now starting it back up again. After you mentioned those things, I recalled changing a fuel line back in about May which really reduced the amount of fumes. There's still a bit of fumage about, so I'll keep investigating before I spend any more money on the evap system. Thanks for your help!

 

[Bully Bob]

"I didn't want the ac assy strictly to keep the fumes in, it was just part of the overall evap system that I was trying to repair."

I understand & if I had a rig that had a nearly complete evap. sys., I would try to put it back to stock. But, with so much missing in your case, it could get expensive. (with little or no help/improvement)

A couple other suspects would be a pin-hole in the tank, a cracked ring-gasket on the sending unit, & a bad gas cap.

I used to get a bit of fuel odor at the veh. rear. Found that the cap was faulty, repl. it & the smell was gone.

"The "reek" is definitely a fuel smell and when I say "hot" I mean ambient temperature."

I figured this & ya.., hotter days will expand the fuel a bit. Air pressure can increase in the tank & leak out, or liquid leaks will be more obvious.

 

[PFS]

So I checked all the things I think could be the culprit, and the cracked gaskets on both caps are the leading suspects. I fully realize this is pretty lame, but the caps are in perfect shape, so rather than replace the whole cap, I wonder if you can get just some gasket material for it. Just seems like a waste to replace the whole thing....

 

[Bully Bob]

1st. I'd want to be sure I had the correct caps. (3 types over the yrs.)

Some vented to atmosphere at a given pressure, & allow air to bleed in to repl. the depleting fuel.

Some (tanks, not the cap, it was sealed) vented to the emissions system.

As to gasket material;

Fiber material won't stretch well over the locking knobs.

Rubber would, but thickness is an issue with both materials.

Assuming the filler neck is stock, the caps were;

'66-'71 short reach

'72-'75 long reach

'77- only

 

[PFS]

Here are the caps and filler neck. Both filler necks are the same. The exterior of the caps are just solid metal. I think I'm just going to buy some new freakin' caps. This is getting out of control just for some gaskets, but if I'm trying to fix this problem, you bring up a good point of making sure I get the right caps for my system and current filler necks.

Thanks!

 

[Bully Bob]

Can't say for certainty but the plactic centered one looks like after market. Not sure 'bout the metal one.

The rubber does look bad.

Both are long reach & appear correct for that year.

Also.., can't say new caps will solve any or all the fume issues but they do look due for replacement.

Don't get frustrated.., you'll get it solved.. >< <'>