genthree
Member
Does anyone know of a source (part #) of a gauge that will work with the stock sending units?
I really want to have an operating gauge.....
I really want to have an operating gauge.....
Aftermarket fuel gauge....
- Thread starter genthree
- Start date
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Are all the other gauges in the stock cluster working..? (oil, temp, amps)
If so., the rebuilt fuel gauge is available at the EB stores.
-OR-
There's a guy on this board that will re-build your whole cluster for a "reasonable" price.
-OR-
I took my spare cluster appart & soldered the 'lil wire (slightly larger than a human hair) inside the gauge
back together. Tricky but it now works.
Point being, there's little room to plant extra gauges in these rigs.
If so., the rebuilt fuel gauge is available at the EB stores.
-OR-
There's a guy on this board that will re-build your whole cluster for a "reasonable" price.
-OR-
I took my spare cluster appart & soldered the 'lil wire (slightly larger than a human hair) inside the gauge
back together. Tricky but it now works.
Point being, there's little room to plant extra gauges in these rigs.
yo Genthree,
As Bob advised and Auto Meter has replacement fuel gauges that may fit; I don't have the size and ohm data for your year; so validate Auto Meter's info
one size and type for example;
http://www.autometer.com/cat_gaugedetail.aspx?ref=search&gid=3453
Air-Core meter movement.
For most Fords before 1989 (except 1987 & later Mustang) & most Chryslers. Designed for use with Original Equipment non-linear fuel sensors. Click HERE for details
http://www.autometer.com/tech_faq_answer.aspx?sid=1&qid=56
"...The short sweep electric fuel gauge manufactured by Auto Meter for the Ford 73-10 ohm range is calibrated for the original Ford factory supplied, non-linear, fuel level sender design. If you view the gauge dial itself, you will notice that the halfway point in the gauge is in fact not centered in the field in order for the calibration to match this special sender.
The Ford Fuel Level sensor with a 73-10ohm range operates with the following ohm ranges for Full, Half, Empty, and Below Empty:
Full: 10 ohms
Half Tank: 25 ohms
Empty: 50 ohms
Pointer Width Below E: 73 ohms
If you have replaced the original equipment Ford sending unit in your vehicle with an aftermarket sending unit, you may notice that the gauge will match the sending unit at the Full and Empty portions of the scale, but that the readings in between will not match up. The reason for this is that some aftermarket senders operating with the 73-10ohm range now utilize a linear movement instead of the original non-linear scale. The comparative ohm reading difference for Full, Half, and Empty have been supplied below for your reference.
Full: 10ohms
Half Tank: 41ohms
Empty: 73ohms
As you can see these numbers differ radically from those of the factory Ford sending units and have a drastic effect upon the gauge readings.
In the event that you have this situation, we recommend one of two options. The first would be to seek an original equipment fuel level sending unit from Ford directly for your vehicle. The other would be to purchase one of our 240-33ohm scaled gauges and the matching #3262 sending unit, or if this unit will not fit your specific tank type, a similar 240-33ohm fuel level sending unit from your tank manufacturer. We recommend the 240-33ohm units because they are a broad linear scale and provide a very accurate reading of the fuel level in the tank."
As Bob advised and Auto Meter has replacement fuel gauges that may fit; I don't have the size and ohm data for your year; so validate Auto Meter's info
one size and type for example;
http://www.autometer.com/cat_gaugedetail.aspx?ref=search&gid=3453
Air-Core meter movement.
For most Fords before 1989 (except 1987 & later Mustang) & most Chryslers. Designed for use with Original Equipment non-linear fuel sensors. Click HERE for details
http://www.autometer.com/tech_faq_answer.aspx?sid=1&qid=56
"...The short sweep electric fuel gauge manufactured by Auto Meter for the Ford 73-10 ohm range is calibrated for the original Ford factory supplied, non-linear, fuel level sender design. If you view the gauge dial itself, you will notice that the halfway point in the gauge is in fact not centered in the field in order for the calibration to match this special sender.
The Ford Fuel Level sensor with a 73-10ohm range operates with the following ohm ranges for Full, Half, Empty, and Below Empty:
Full: 10 ohms
Half Tank: 25 ohms
Empty: 50 ohms
Pointer Width Below E: 73 ohms
If you have replaced the original equipment Ford sending unit in your vehicle with an aftermarket sending unit, you may notice that the gauge will match the sending unit at the Full and Empty portions of the scale, but that the readings in between will not match up. The reason for this is that some aftermarket senders operating with the 73-10ohm range now utilize a linear movement instead of the original non-linear scale. The comparative ohm reading difference for Full, Half, and Empty have been supplied below for your reference.
Full: 10ohms
Half Tank: 41ohms
Empty: 73ohms
As you can see these numbers differ radically from those of the factory Ford sending units and have a drastic effect upon the gauge readings.
In the event that you have this situation, we recommend one of two options. The first would be to seek an original equipment fuel level sending unit from Ford directly for your vehicle. The other would be to purchase one of our 240-33ohm scaled gauges and the matching #3262 sending unit, or if this unit will not fit your specific tank type, a similar 240-33ohm fuel level sending unit from your tank manufacturer. We recommend the 240-33ohm units because they are a broad linear scale and provide a very accurate reading of the fuel level in the tank."
A side note; The stock gauges are energized @ 6v via the volt-reg. on the back of the cluster.
No clue on the aft. mkt., round units..., prob. need sep. wiring for power... :huh:
No clue on the aft. mkt., round units..., prob. need sep. wiring for power... :huh:
OP
OP
genthree
Member
Thanks guys....
I have thought about "rewinding" the gauge. I can see where the filament has lost it's insulation and is most likely grounding, but my hands shake too bad for the task. My electrician has fingers the size of a Hickory Farms Summer sausage so he is out. That wire is SOOOO small!!!
Toms didn't have a rebuilt last time I was in there, I may just wait. I had to add an after-market to the rig at this point. I was hoping someone had found something really cool to solve all my problems....
I have thought about "rewinding" the gauge. I can see where the filament has lost it's insulation and is most likely grounding, but my hands shake too bad for the task. My electrician has fingers the size of a Hickory Farms Summer sausage so he is out. That wire is SOOOO small!!!
Toms didn't have a rebuilt last time I was in there, I may just wait. I had to add an after-market to the rig at this point. I was hoping someone had found something really cool to solve all my problems....
BTW.., W/O reading waaaay back.., did you test the tank sender or is it new..? ..... or, assume it's working
with the aft. mkt. gauge.
That wire doesn't have insulation.., & the gauge can be tested with any 6v power supply, if you didn't already.
Have fun out there..!!
B
with the aft. mkt. gauge.
That wire doesn't have insulation.., & the gauge can be tested with any 6v power supply, if you didn't already.
Have fun out there..!!
B
OP
OP
genthree
Member
yeah, the sender unit I tested it on is a new one and it was Ohm'ing out correct. I also got good signal at the gauge so I know that my wiring was is good.
The wire on the gauge has some sort of clear sheath on it. I can see where it is "delaminating"..
The wire on the gauge has some sort of clear sheath on it. I can see where it is "delaminating"..
Don't think we're talking 'bout the same wire...?
Not the feed wire from the 6v volt. reg. I took my spare gauge "appart" & on the inside there was a "mini"
copper wire. (probably the end of the windings) This wire was broken & I was able to touch some hot solder
to the ends to re-connect. Gauge now works.
I think all the wires on the back of the cluster are jacketed as there is a constant 6v on the power side with the key on.
And as you know, that 6v. powers all 3 gauges.
The amp gauge, of course, is a seperate animal.
Not the feed wire from the 6v volt. reg. I took my spare gauge "appart" & on the inside there was a "mini"
copper wire. (probably the end of the windings) This wire was broken & I was able to touch some hot solder
to the ends to re-connect. Gauge now works.
I think all the wires on the back of the cluster are jacketed as there is a constant 6v on the power side with the key on.
And as you know, that 6v. powers all 3 gauges.
The amp gauge, of course, is a seperate animal.
OP
OP
genthree
Member
no seriously.... The MINI wire is jacketed with a thin, clean coating of some sort. Very thin wire.... I don't know why you are calling me a liar!!!! 
)
I can see it.... NOBODY believes me!!! If I had any guts at all, I would rip it out of the dash and take a picture of it just to prove my point..... But my wiring job sucks and it would take too much time.....
)I can see it.... NOBODY believes me!!! If I had any guts at all, I would rip it out of the dash and take a picture of it just to prove my point..... But my wiring job sucks and it would take too much time.....
There are no liars on this board.., they're all in D.C. ..!! /emoticons/[email protected] 2x" width="20" height="20" /> /emoticons/[email protected] 2x" width="20" height="20" /> B)
Sooo., to be clear, you took the gauge out, took the two small nuts, fiber insulation, & cover off the back.
And removed the face..?
In there was the workings & the "WIRE" ..., size of a dog hair.
Maybe in later yrs. they jacketed it some how but mine is/was bare.
A touch of solder & good as new. I tested with a worn out 9v battery & the needle does its thing.
Don't remember if you said you tested your gauge...?
BTW-- if you mash or some way jam the 'lil needle, it won't move.
"Enjoy the ride..!!"
B
--UPDATE---
AH-HA..! I stand corrected. I took apart my (spare) oil pres. gauge that didn't work after re-soldering the 'lil wire.
(the fuel gauge re-solder worked) (I did these over a year ago)
Upon a closer look with a dual lense magnifying glass, I could see that I had soldered the fabric insolation
on that 'lil wire NOT the wire itself. I was able to scrape away the insolation & re-solder the wire and
WA-LA...! the oil press. gauge now works.
The insolation appears to be a dark brown fabric of sorts.
You are right..!! I would not have seen that fabric W/O the mag. glass.
AND.., my spare oil press. gauge now works, thanks to your persistence../
/emoticons/[email protected] 2x" width="20" height="20" /> /emoticons/[email protected] 2x" width="20" height="20" /> B)Sooo., to be clear, you took the gauge out, took the two small nuts, fiber insulation, & cover off the back.
And removed the face..?
In there was the workings & the "WIRE" ..., size of a dog hair.
Maybe in later yrs. they jacketed it some how but mine is/was bare.
A touch of solder & good as new. I tested with a worn out 9v battery & the needle does its thing.
Don't remember if you said you tested your gauge...?
BTW-- if you mash or some way jam the 'lil needle, it won't move.
"Enjoy the ride..!!"
B
--UPDATE---
AH-HA..! I stand corrected. I took apart my (spare) oil pres. gauge that didn't work after re-soldering the 'lil wire.
(the fuel gauge re-solder worked) (I did these over a year ago)
Upon a closer look with a dual lense magnifying glass, I could see that I had soldered the fabric insolation
on that 'lil wire NOT the wire itself. I was able to scrape away the insolation & re-solder the wire and
WA-LA...! the oil press. gauge now works.
The insolation appears to be a dark brown fabric of sorts.
You are right..!! I would not have seen that fabric W/O the mag. glass.
AND.., my spare oil press. gauge now works, thanks to your persistence..
/
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OP
OP
genthree
Member
Could you actually see where it wasn't connected? I am half-temped to break into that thing and see if I can actually see the break.....
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With a small ***** driver, you can bend the 'lil ear type tab on top of the face out just enough.., & work the indents on the bottom of the face just enough to get the face loose. Remove it carefully so as not to damage the needle.
With the face off, you can see the workings..., i.e. the wire coils on a thin flat piece of brass. The two wire ends are each soldered to ea. stud that exits the back of the gauge. That solder point is most likely where the wire breaks.
There's no guarantee that your wire is broke but a good chance.
Another test (B/4 dis-assembly) is, test the two poles for continunity.., if there is.., it's not likely the wire(s) are broken.
I had to use the mag. glass, an exacto knife (to scrape the jacketing), & tweezers to work in there.
I then had continunity, & the weak 9v batt. showed me the needle would move to full deflection.
Not exactly easy but doable. Everything in there is delicate.
With the face off, you can see the workings..., i.e. the wire coils on a thin flat piece of brass. The two wire ends are each soldered to ea. stud that exits the back of the gauge. That solder point is most likely where the wire breaks.
There's no guarantee that your wire is broke but a good chance.
Another test (B/4 dis-assembly) is, test the two poles for continunity.., if there is.., it's not likely the wire(s) are broken.
I had to use the mag. glass, an exacto knife (to scrape the jacketing), & tweezers to work in there.
I then had continunity, & the weak 9v batt. showed me the needle would move to full deflection.
Not exactly easy but doable. Everything in there is delicate.
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