My 95 cruise stopped working and so did switch to watch t.v. Getting five volts on light green wire all the way back to high mount stop light followed to under dash past back of brake on off switch now where? Always at 5 volts with key on
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All fuses fine I believe it they both have to do with the fact Im getting 5 volts with key on through out the green wire behind brake switch and up into multi function switch won't let cruise engageI don't know about your watch TV switch, but the other two are both taking power from fuse 13. Check the voltage at fuse 13 You should be getting 12V.
Good luck,
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I am sorry, the problem is the five volts in that green wire, won't let my cruise control engage. I also happen to have alpine t.v. Hooked up to a switch and my brakes so I can watch while driving. This back feed also will not let t.v. Come on unless key is off. I did put led lights in my brake lights, but when I unplug harness further up I lose the 5 volts at third light. I will check those led brake lights though thanks I really appreciate it.Ok I am somewhat confused as to what you are exactly talking about. If the problem is that your cruise control won't work, and you have traced a problem to a green wire that goes from the third light to the brake light switch.....and that wire always is carrying 5 volts of current....?????
Then the problem MAY be that somehow a rear brake/ turn signal bulb has been changed, to an improper bulb. These should be 2 fillament bulbs known as #1157. Some times these are replaced with single fillament bulbs, #1156.. that can cause a rare backfeed of voltage.
This is just a guess, but I have seen bizzare things like this happen.
Without taking the time to verify, I'm thinking that the green wire you are referring to is your brake light circuit, and that before the brake light switch, it should always be hot with 12 volts. It operates independantly of the ignition switch. Therefore if you have 5 volts feeding the other side of the switch, it is being back fed. This is especially true since it only happens when the ignition switch it turned ON. I don't know what you are referring to (watch TV switch) so I suspect that circuit is the culprit. I'd disconnect that and see.
Oppps, just had a thought.
What about that recall for the switch under the master cylinder? Did you have that performed?
Do you have brake fluid leaking at the master cylinder?
yo,
Cruise Control, right?
Go out NOW and unplug that deactivation switch on the Master Cylinder
Don't bother reading the rest of this...go!
and come back to read about the :
Recall for 93-96 Bronco, 94-02 F-150, 97-02 Expedition & 98-02 Lincoln Navigators; NHTSA CAMPAIGN ID Numbers: 08V051000 (93 Bronco, etc.)
07V336000 & 05V017000
THE SPEED CONTROL DEACTIVATION SWITCH MAY OVERHEAT, SMOKE, OR BURN THIS CONDITION COULD LEAD TO A FIRE. FIRES HAVE OCCURRED WHILE THE VEHICLES WERE PARKED WITH THE IGNITION 'OFF.' AS AN INTERIM REPAIR, OWNERS WILL BE INSTRUCTED TO RETURN THEIR VEHICLES TO THEIR DEALERS TO HAVE THE SPEED CONTROL DEACTIVATION SWITCH DISCONNECTED.
do Not park under, next to home or in a garage.
Belafox wrote how Ford will reimburse him for the Recall work:"have a 95 Bronco and back in feb.-11- 2010 my rig's master cylinder's deactivation connection caught fire, this is what the recall "speed control system" is and the recall is still on going. Just go to www.fordowner.com to find out about recalls. After contacting Fordowner.com and filing a claim they passed it on to the claims group @ FORD to be reviewed. Once the group reviewed my claim then someone got in touch with me, I have to mail copys of my title, bill of sale, ect. and copy's of photos of the damage to her. She said that the dealer dose not have parts for vehicles 10 years and older so I have to get my local shop to replace the master cylinder and the wires that were effected by the break fluid and their labor cast, she will cut me/the shop a check and then after the work is done then the dealer will look it over to make sure the truck and the work is up-to-date. All this to fix something that at most costs $200"
....
I've seen all types of dealer's denials from other owners here and other places. Best bet is that Ford site @ http://www.flmowner.com & register with VIN
You can also get there, free for a 96 & UP;
Download
Maintenance Schedules
Owner's & Warranty Guide
...
Plus Recalls Performed or Outstanding,
dealer service record summaries (Ford is adding entries now), etc.
Also enroll in;
Owner Advantage Rewards. Ford; ".... is our way of thanking you for your business each time you purchase parts or service from your participating Dealership. Bring in any vehicle in your household for service, no matter what make or model. Make sure to show your membership card or let your Service Advisor know that you are a member every time you’re in for service, and your rewards will be posted to your account. It’s that simple. $10 enrollment bonus toward a future parts or service purchase, 5% credit on all parts and service purchases that can be applied toward future service visits. Rewards on every vehicle in your household, no matter what make or model. Special complimentary oil change offers (I believe it's a free oil service after 4 or 5 paid services)..."
miesk5 Note,You'll need to select the dealer and the program will only apply to parts bought or services @ that dealership
No I didn't wool do . I do still get the 5 volts even with fuse 13 out . I will try these things you suggested this weekend and get back to you, also. Really appreciate it..Did you actually pull the connector off the master cylinder as you were told to do by Miesk5? and then check the voltage? Having 5V on a line that should have 12V on it indicates a high resistance short circuit or bad connection. That is why I told you to check the voltage at fuse 13. If you still have 5V with the connector off, check the voltage at the output of fuse L in the engine compartment fuse box.
FIRES HAVE OCCURRED WHILE THE VEHICLES WERE PARKED WITH THE IGNITION OFFNo I didn't wool do ...
Thank you very much , and understood. The green wire behind the brake switch should have 0 volts., unless the circuit is energized. The green wire with the stripe is constant hot. I lose the green wire at mfs switch. I unplug mfs switch and still 5 volts. I dont know where to go next. I lose wire in loom under dash.schematics say goes to engine controls.?....but where?FIRES HAVE OCCURRED WHILE THE VEHICLES WERE PARKED WITH THE IGNITION OFF
Foregt the voltage checks; disconnect the switch NOW
then troubleshoot the ckt
I know a few owners who had have their Bronco burn to a crisp because of the Switch.
As for the recall;
I know our former local Ford Dealer was VG at doing recall or TSB work such as on the Child Safety Seat, Tether Attachments;
while at same time, others have said that their dealers knew nothing of this ( & "couldn't find the info on it" or wouldn't do it.
and for the Cruise Ctrl Deact. Switch Recall;
"took it to the dealer today and got a new one installed free" 12 April 2011
Source: by tr21triton