95 Bronco XL 302/5spd

[Xxxyank]

Well i have enjoyed my Bronco for just over a year now (knock on wood) it has been very reliable but it's time to get her safety inspection. Great thing is, since I'm in Catawba NC, i don't have to go threw an emission test since my truck is a 95... but i don't think i would have a problem, I have no codes showing & she purs like a kitten.. Anyways a buddy of mine with a 96 Bronco XLT is cussing himself, cause he just failed 2 weeks ago...

The previous owner of my truck was a Fire chief, so my light harness has been hacked all up. Of course wouldn't you know, it wasn't but last week all my lights were working... except for the left high beam, turns out it is a wire problem there... So i just did a little bypass to get me threw tomorrow. I think I'm going to order a painless kit for the headlamps, unless someone else might know of another source.

but now i also got a brake light out & turn signal out on the left rear side which i still haven't figured out what was wrong. this truck also has a butchered up homemade trailer light thing to going on... Anyways With me messing with the wires now my tailgate glass doesn't go up... lol just my luck

I just replaced my emergency brake cable, that i had to cut this winter, cause -30 degrees in snowmobile country froze it up. It has been a pita finding a place to park, to keep the truck running, so i can keep my AC on this summer...lol

I have put 12K's on her since i bought it last year, since then i did a tune-up, duel battery, new gas tank, starter & Alt... she has been very reliable (knock on wood)& runs like a champ. When i upgraded the 8.8, got rid of the clip axle shafts & dropped in a Detroit True Trac, she handles the rough winter weather really well! An saved me a boat load of $$$$ cause i didn't have to put her in 4wd for the full 800 snow/ice miles of the trip. This years projects will be front axle upgrade & maybe a slight lift with 33's. Even though i didn't get stuck, snow clearance (sometimes the snow was above my bumper) had my blood pressure up & adrenalin pumping... I'm hoping to get another year or one more 2K trip out of my 302 which is burning & leaking some oil, then do a crate job... Besides all that i am a very happy & proud Bronco owner, which is hard to admit, with all my IH scouts in the driveway.

Anyways any advise on the back lights would be greatly appreciated but i understand it's hard to tell unless there is a trouble spot someone knows of. An i really need to replace that headlamp harness one way or the other, so if anybody knows of another quality route or cheap source for a painless harness.. let me know

Thanks!

Matt

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[Seabronc]

Check the condition of the connectors at the left side that are just under the bumper on the rear cross member. The left and right tail light harness splits at that point and if they hacked the wires for stuff like flashing lights you may have a problem with the wires there or behind the tail light. The window may be any number of things, but the most common problem is the switch located in the left tail gate latch. Try pushing against the left side when operating the tail gate key switch. Is it stuck up or down?

Good luck,

Please add your truck vitals to your profile signature.

 

[miesk5]

yo,

May I add to what Seabronc mentioned on the left brake light, etc.?

I assume brake/turn bulb (3157K bulb) & socket are ok?

Check continuity of front turn lamps and rear stop/turn lamps

Check continuity of Circuit 57 (BK) at each front turn lamp and each rear stop/turn lamp with a known good ground

Multi-Function Switch (MFS) Failure Causes; "...The turn signal switch is very often misunderstood as to how it operates. The turn signal switch does more than operate your turn signals. It operates the horns, brake lights, and emergency flashers as well. For those who are electrically inclined or just would like to understand how the turn signals work, below is an explanation of the operation of the turn signals. When viewing the drawings, think of the turn signal switch oriented where the lever is pointing straight up and the switch is on it's side. As you can see, there are multiple points where age or corrosion may cause improper operation of any of the circuits. Also notice that the circuit for the brake lights goes through the turn signal switch. The brighter bulb element is used for both the brake lights and the turn signals. This is how the circuit for the emergency flashers works, using the existing brake light circuit contained in the switch. It's important that the turn signal switch be in good condition for the brake lights to operate properly. If the switch is worn, sometimes the actual weight of the lever can make the switch break the circuit for the left brake light but not quite connect the flasher circuit for that turn signal. This happens often and can confuse many an owner or mechanic in trying to learn why the left brake light won't work properly. A new turn signal switch does wonders for the overall operation of turn signals, horns, brake lights and emergency flashers. NOTE: There are kits that allow you to just change the cam plate on an old switch. For proper operation, the turn signal cam has to be correctly alligned and tightly installed. If the cam is worn out and needs replacing, chances are the rest of the switch probably needs replacing also. It is recommended that the complete switch assembly be replaced when needed to ensure proper operation of all functions the turn signal provides. Here is a dissassembled turn signal switch. The cam plate had been changed at one time but this shows how the contacts are oriented in the switch..."

Source: by 1970mgr.org

But since the left turn signal doesn't work either (or does it at other times?)

Try this first; Press hazard switch in and out for about a minute, it helps to clean the MFS contacts

Multi-Function Switch (MFS) Cleaning & Internal pics in a 2001 Explorer; Miesk5 NOTE, it should be electrically & functionally identical to our years; "...Wipe with a rag, hit with contact cleaner and an old toothbrush to clean. Regrease with dielectric grease. Save ~$80 for a new switch that will only last ~4 years..." Source: by Electrohacker

Multi-Function Switch (MFS), Hazard, Turn, High & Low Headlight Dimmer, Flash-to-Pass & Brake Light Testing & Wiring Diagram in 92-96; "...the MFS testing is done with connectors disconnected; it's strictly an internal test of the MFS; ..." Miesk5 NOTE; Brake Light & Turn, High & Low Headlight Dimmer, Flash-to-Pass & Hazard CKTs are a Feed-Through Circuit in Multi-Function Switch (MFS)

Source: by Steve83 (Steve, That dirty old truck) at http://www.supermotors.net/registry/media/225114_1



MFS Testing 92-up

IF THE IMAGE IS TOO SMALL, click it.

Use these photos for access to the MFS:

http://www.supermotors.net/registry/6098/31472-4

Repair it; http://www.supermotors.net/registry/media/867609-4

Brake, Turn, Multi-Function Switch (MFS) Wiring Diagram in 92-96 Bronco & F 150; for lighting only, turn signals, head lights, hazards, etc.



Source: by seijirou at SuperMotors.net