95 Bronco\Headlights won't turn off

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jamesmthigpen

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My 95 EB Bronco was parked in carport. Everything off and locked. Headlights (All running lights) came on??? Had to disconnect battery. I replaced the light on\off switch. I noticed when I unplugged the switch from the harness, the lights were still on. I inspected the harness and didn't see any problem. I replaced the multiple switch on the column (blinker, hazard, wiper, high beam). I also replaced the circuit breaker in the inside fuse panel just for kicks. (LOL) I reconnected the battery and the lights were still on. I pulled each relay one at a time in the fuse box located under the hood and all the lights stayed on. HELP!
 

Tiha

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Has anyone made light additions or changes to the bronco?

Maybe not even lighting, but adding other accessories? Aftermarket headlights?

You have eliminated the obvious, if it is none of those you have a harness melted together someplace.

I am trying to find a decent size wiring diagram to post here. But there just isn't anything you haven't already checked. They should have gone off when you unplugged the headlight switch. So you are not crazy. You just have one of those difficult ones.
 
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jamesmthigpen

jamesmthigpen

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Thanks for responding. I'm the only owner, I bought her brand new. No modifications have been made. She is all original. Is there maybe a resistor under the hood? Next thing I thought was many anti-theft system malfunction. Long shot... Probably not because she cranks and runs fine. Blinkers, Brake and Back-up lights work correctly.
 
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Tiha

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Okay, that helps.

Need to narrow it down now.

Headlight power comes from the headlight switch to the multifunction switch and out to the headlights.

You said they stay on if you unhook the headlight switch.

Do they stay on if you unhook the multifunction switch?

And is it just the headlights? Or all the marker lights?
 

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Tiha

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Before this, Did you have daytime running lights?

I was thinking that was a Canada only thing. Do you know if you did?
 
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jamesmthigpen

jamesmthigpen

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Yes, all marker lights are on. I don't think it has DRL, but if so, where would it be located? What does it look like?
 
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jamesmthigpen

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Thanks for the wiring diagram.. Didn't see any resistor or a DRL. Lights on have one-off control switch..
 

Tiha

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I believe DRL module is out on the radiator support.

If your markers are on as well it is not the multi function switch or the DRL module.

What about trailer wiring? Do you have anything back there?

Looking for something back feeding the system. I supposed you could pull one fuse at a time, when the lights go out that will narrow down which circuit it is. Maybe? That is if one of the fuses will shut it off.
 
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jamesmthigpen

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How is this possible. I unplugged the on\off switch and the multifunction switch. All marker lights are still on.????
 

Tiha

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It is getting power from a melted harness somewhere. That is about the only way left.

Melted, pinched.
 

miesk5

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Yo James,
Switch Fires, Part Number SW-2103: "...Over the past two years, this office has experienced fires caused by another potential problem in Ford vehicles. The problem exists within the dimmer portion of the headlight switch in Ford vehicles. The light switch involved is a Model SW-2103. These are the pull out type headlight switches usually located in the left corner of the dash of Ford vehicles. The headlight portion of the switch has two pullout positions, the first for parking lights only, and fully out for headlights and parking lights. The shaft of this pull-out light switch can be turned clockwise and counterclockwise which activates a dimmer switch, lowering and raising the intensity of the lighting in the instrument panels respectively. Fully rotating the shaft counterclockwise past a notch activates the interior lights within the vehicles. The potential problem exists within the dimmer portion of this switch. The dimmer mechanism consists of a metallic resistive coil set inside a ceramic disc positioned over the shaft of the switch. The coil is exposed on its front side away from the passenger compartment. The front side of the coil passes across a contact permitting a current to flow through a certain portion of the coil when the switch is pulled our in its first or second positions. The greater amount of coil through which the current is permitted to pass (clockwise most position) creates the greatest resistance and therefore dims the dash lighting to its lowest intensity. The opposite position provides greatest intensity. Through our investigations, we have found that the coil can fail owing to wear and/or possible material defects or damage. A fractured coil can maneuver itself free of the ceramic disc permitting it to come in contact with the metal bracket which mounts and grounds the switch to the vehicle. When this occurs, a current can flow through a portion of the coil creating high temperatures melting the metal material of the coil and possibly igniting surrounding combustibles. This mechanism has been observed in three separate incidents by this office. Two of these resulted in a fire. The mechanism is precipitated by wear and/or defect in the coil mechanism. If the former is true, we expect there will be an increase in fires caused through this mechanism given an increase in service time. To this date the problem appears to be somewhat limited. However, this particular light switch has been utilized in numerous Ford vehicles. Therefore, a small increase in failure rate owing to age and wear could result in a significant increase in fire losses. The SW-2103 Light Switch Assembly discussed above is reportedly installed in the following Ford vehicles: 1986 -1997 F100, F150, F300; 1990-1994 Explorer; 1987-1994 Ranger; 1987-1990 Bronco II; 1992-1997 Aerostar..." Miesk5 NOTE: No Bronco Listed, but this may be the result of typos or incomplete research by the company.
 

Tiha

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Maybe I would pull the bulkhead connector at the firewall.

If lights go out, then problem is inside the cab.

If lights stay on, problem is outside the cab.
 
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jamesmthigpen

jamesmthigpen

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I believe DRL module is out on the radiator support.

If your markers are on as well it is not the multi function switch or the DRL module.

What about trailer wiring? Do you have anything back there?

Looking for something back feeding the system. I supposed you could pull one fuse at a time, when the lights go out that will narrow down which circuit it is. Maybe? That is if one of the fuses will shut it off.
I pulled each fuse and reset them. (Under hood) When I pulled #4 (25amp), and reset it, all the marker lights turned off???? Trailer back-up lamps and running lamps. I put everything back together; switches, dash ect. Everything is operating according to manufacturing specifications. LOL. Screenshot_20220421-184901.png
 

Tiha

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that is interesting, Diagram says that is trailer back up lamp/marker relay.

I would say bad relay, but you said you pulled them all.

Glad you got it, at least if it happens again you kind of know where to look.
 

King Daddy Rabbit

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My 95 EB Bronco was parked in carport. Everything off and locked. Headlights (All running lights) came on??? Had to disconnect battery. I replaced the light on\off switch. I noticed when I unplugged the switch from the harness, the lights were still on. I inspected the harness and didn't see any problem. I replaced the multiple switch on the column (blinker, hazard, wiper, high beam). I also replaced the circuit breaker in the inside fuse panel just for kicks. (LOL) I reconnected the battery and the lights were still on. I pulled each relay one at a time in the fuse box located under the hood and all the lights stayed on. HELP!
Sounds like a short. Bare wire or something. Those can take 5 minutes or hours to locate. Try places that are most likely and show any rubbing or wear. My 90 Eddie Bauer has had a few but all were no power not continuous.
 

Motech

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Seems like you had a stuck relay, the backup/running lamp relay Tiha referenced. It's possible that relay is in a different spot than the ones you removed, so it was never unplugged. When you took away the power to it, contacts opened back up again.

I hate when that happens, when you correct something without knowing exactly what you corrected. Sooner or later it's going to come back to bite again.

I'm away from my shop computer, but feel free to quote me and reply here, I'll get the notification and look up the location for that relay to post up here later on.
 

miesk5

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Yo
  • Headlamps On Continuously
  • Circuitry open/shorted.
  • Damaged headlamp switch.

PINPOINT TEST B: HEADLAMPS ON CONTINUOUSLY​


B1 CHECK HEADLAMP SWITCH​

  • With headlamp switch in the OFF position, use Rotunda 73 Digital Multimeter 105-R0051 or equivalent to check for voltage at Pin H of the headlamp switch.
Is battery voltage present at Pin H?
YesNo
REPLACE headlamp switch. RESTORE vehicle. RETEST system.GO to B2.

B2 CHECK MULTI-FUNCTION SWITCH​

  • With headlamp switch in the OFF position, check for voltage at Circuit 12 (LG/BK) and Circuit 13 (R/BK) on the multi-function switch.
Is battery voltage present?
YesNo
REPLACE multi-function switch. RESTORE vehicle. RETEST system.GO to B1.


Headlamp Switch

The component connector MUST BE REMOVED before testing. To test a single circuit within the component, select that circuit under the column TO TEST. To test the complete component, perform all tests.

Connect the tester to the terminals shown in the second column and operate the component as shown in the third column.

To Test​
Connect Self-Powered Test Lamp or Ohmmeter to Terminals​
Move Switch to These Positions​
A Good Switch Will Indicate​
Headlamp Circuit
Pin B1, Circuit 38 (BK/O)
and
Pin H, Circuit 15 (R/Y)​
Off
Park
Head
Open Circuit
Open Circuit
Closed Circuit​
Park Lamp Circuit
Pin B2, Circuit 195 (T/W)
and
Pin R, Circuit 14 (BR)​
Off
Park
Head
Open Circuit
Closed Circuit
Closed Circuit​
Dome Light Circuit
Pin D1, Circuit 54 (LG/Y)
and
Pin D2, Circuit 55 (BK/PK)
Pin D2, Circuit 706 (GY)​
**** rotated fully counterclockwise
(In detent)​
Closed Circuit​
**** rotated fully clockwise
(Out of detent)​
Open Circuit​
Panel Light Dimmer Circuit
Pin R, Circuit 14 (BR)
and
Pin I, Circuit 294 (W/LB)​
**** rotated left from full clockwise position​
Ohmmeter Will Show Smoothly Increasing Resistance to approx. 11 ohm max.​
Ignition On, Lamps Off Circuit
Pin IGN, Circuit 137 (Y/BK)
and
Pin DN, Circuit 484 (O/BK)​
Off
Park
Head
Closed Circuit
Open Circuit
Open Circuit​
Cluster Dimmer Circuit
Pin I, Circuit 294 (W/LB)
and
Pin DN, Circuit 484 (O/BK)​
Off
Park
Head
Open Circuit
Closed Circuit
Closed Circuit​
 

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