Captain red beard
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Thanks man! It runs waaaay better now! And no codes! Now I can start upgrading the plugs wires and distributor cap. And so on.
94 bronco doesn't want to shift
- Thread starter Captain red beard
- Start date
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Yo Sam,
Great!
Spark Plug Wire Routing & Firing Order TSB 94-04-10 for 87-93 5.0 & 94-96 5.0 & all 5.8 - engine miss, spark knock, buck/***** surge and other driveability concerns;
Same as diagram atop radiator support, but printable and larger.
MIESK5 NOTE; The firing order for 1987-1993 5.0Ls is 1-5-4-2-6-3-7-8. If #7 and #8, or #2 and #4 spark plug wires are routed next to each other at the separation bracket, an induction crossfire condition can occur.
&
The firing order for 1994 5.0Ls & all 5.8Ls is 1-3-7-2-6-5-4-8. On these vehicles the #1 and #3, or #5 and #6 spark plug wires must be separated to eliminate the possibility of an induction crossfire. To eliminate the possibility of the coil wire becoming disconnected, route the coil wire under the spark plug wires at the distributor cap.
http://www.supermotors.net/clubs/superford/vehicles/registry/5180/32495
By Ford via Tank92
Great!
Spark Plug Wire Routing & Firing Order TSB 94-04-10 for 87-93 5.0 & 94-96 5.0 & all 5.8 - engine miss, spark knock, buck/***** surge and other driveability concerns;
Same as diagram atop radiator support, but printable and larger.
MIESK5 NOTE; The firing order for 1987-1993 5.0Ls is 1-5-4-2-6-3-7-8. If #7 and #8, or #2 and #4 spark plug wires are routed next to each other at the separation bracket, an induction crossfire condition can occur.
&
The firing order for 1994 5.0Ls & all 5.8Ls is 1-3-7-2-6-5-4-8. On these vehicles the #1 and #3, or #5 and #6 spark plug wires must be separated to eliminate the possibility of an induction crossfire. To eliminate the possibility of the coil wire becoming disconnected, route the coil wire under the spark plug wires at the distributor cap.
http://www.supermotors.net/clubs/superford/vehicles/registry/5180/32495
By Ford via Tank92
Captain red beard
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Alright so something weird is going on. It's been driving fine lately and then out of nowhere I'm driving on the highway and it stalls on me. And it doesn't want to start back up. It will crank and crank but the only way I was able to get it started was to turn the key on for about 2 minutes and then it would start. It sputtered on the highway before stalling. I still have half a tank of gas so it's not the fuel. Do you think it could be the fuel filter? It isn't showing any codes. I did both tests and neither one showed any codes
Yo,
This:
Could be the filter. Replace fuel filter every 15,000 miles.
How to Troubleshoot a No Start
(Ford 4.9L, 5.0L, 5.8L)
http://troubleshootmyvehicle.com/ford/4.9L-5.0L-5.8L/how-to-troubleshoot-a-no-start-1
for some of the tools/test devices, check with local parts stores for a loan a tool program, refundable deposit for such as:
Fuel Pump Diagnostic Kit, spark tester ...
***
"It will crank and crank but the only way I was able to get it started was to turn the key on for about 2 minutes and then it would start."
Sounds familiar when my battery developed a Cell; "... Sometimes, a battery will have just one cell go bad or short out. When this happens, the battery will seem fully charged, but fail to start the car, or it may start the car right after charging, but then fail to start the car an hour or more later. Replace the battery, there is no way to fix this problem. This condition most often happens to batteries subjected to lots of vibration, and sometimes to new and almost new batteries that have a bad cell from the factory.
Source: by Gordon via miesk5
Can you pull it and have it tested?
This:
Could be the filter. Replace fuel filter every 15,000 miles.
How to Troubleshoot a No Start
(Ford 4.9L, 5.0L, 5.8L)
http://troubleshootmyvehicle.com/ford/4.9L-5.0L-5.8L/how-to-troubleshoot-a-no-start-1
for some of the tools/test devices, check with local parts stores for a loan a tool program, refundable deposit for such as:
Fuel Pump Diagnostic Kit, spark tester ...
***
"It will crank and crank but the only way I was able to get it started was to turn the key on for about 2 minutes and then it would start."
Sounds familiar when my battery developed a Cell; "... Sometimes, a battery will have just one cell go bad or short out. When this happens, the battery will seem fully charged, but fail to start the car, or it may start the car right after charging, but then fail to start the car an hour or more later. Replace the battery, there is no way to fix this problem. This condition most often happens to batteries subjected to lots of vibration, and sometimes to new and almost new batteries that have a bad cell from the factory.
Source: by Gordon via miesk5
Can you pull it and have it tested?
Captain red beard
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Sounds good I will get he battery tested. I just thought it was weird that it stalled on me while driving. I replaced the fuel filter and the fuel came out black. So yeah it was definitely time to change!
Captain red beard
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Sounds good I will get he battery tested. I just thought it was weird that it stalled on me while driving. I replaced the fuel filter and the fuel came out black. So yeah it was definitely time to change!
Yo,
OK.
Let us know how it runs.
OK.
Let us know how it runs.
Captain red beard
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Ok so it runs alright for now. It shifts good, idles good, runs smooth and no codes. But it is running SUPER rich. If I have the back window and side windows rolled down, I have a hard time breathing while driving. Only getting about 250 miles per tank. And I changed the fuel filter and it fixed it for about 2 weeks. Just stalled on the highway yesterday. When it stalls it acts like it's not getting any gas, but it smell super rich. Let me know if you have any ideas of where to start
Thanks
Sam
Thanks
Sam
Yo Sam,
Check air inlet atop radiator for blockage, then thru filter and box to throttle body for same plus tears, holes, etc.
How is fuel quality, has it been in tank for a long time?
Did I mention a vacuum leak earlier?
See my leak diagnosis in post #20 @ http://broncozone.com/topic/23994-90-58l-getting-continuous-code-33-and-running-code-44/?p=125535
Check air inlet atop radiator for blockage, then thru filter and box to throttle body for same plus tears, holes, etc.
How is fuel quality, has it been in tank for a long time?
Did I mention a vacuum leak earlier?
See my leak diagnosis in post #20 @ http://broncozone.com/topic/23994-90-58l-getting-continuous-code-33-and-running-code-44/?p=125535
Captain red beard
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I'll check those. This is the second full tank that has gone through the bronco since I've had it.
Yo,
OK.
All that I posted also apply to stall while in cruise or acceleration mode in addition to electrical connectors and ignition wiring.
Is CEL LIT?
OK.
All that I posted also apply to stall while in cruise or acceleration mode in addition to electrical connectors and ignition wiring.
Is CEL LIT?
Yo, Part 45,
Sorry, bad headache day.
Yo,
By Ford,
"Visually inspect the complete fuel delivery system, including fuel tank lines, reservoir, filter, pumps, injectors, pressure regulator, and line connectors for leakage, looseness, cracks, pinching, kinking, corrosion, abrasion, or other damage caused by accident, collision, assembly or usage."
Check air inlet atop radiator for blockage, then thru filter and box to throttle body for same plus tears, holes, etc.
How is fuel quality, has it been in tank for a long time?
As flomaster suggested, Leaking injectors
Restrictions in fuel return line, CHECK FUEL PRESSURE LEAKDOWN
Connect the Fuel Pressure Test Kit at the fuel pressure test point.
Connect a jumper to the FP lead of the DLC.
Key on, engine off.
Ground the test lead using the jumper wire to run the fuel pump.
Run the fuel pump for 30 seconds minimum.
Remove the test lead ground and note fuel pressure on the gauge.
Verify whether the fuel pressure remains within the specified 5 psi for 1 minute after the test lead is ungrounded.
Does fuel pressure remain within 5 psi for 1 minute after the test lead is ungrounded?
Read more, same as 90 @ http://www.thedieselstop.com/faq/9497faq/maint/vra/leftside=vras9al.htm&rightside=vras9ar.htm
Clogged exhaust, thus lowering vacuum. A vac gauge is best low cost test and MPG helper you can spend $ on.
Exhaust leaks before or near the HO2S will dump raw oxygen on the O2 sensor and can make the system attempt to go rich.
Fuel pressure regulator; pull vac hose off, any gas in it or gas aroma means it's bad because it's diaphragm ruptured.
Sorry, bad headache day.
Yo,
By Ford,
"Visually inspect the complete fuel delivery system, including fuel tank lines, reservoir, filter, pumps, injectors, pressure regulator, and line connectors for leakage, looseness, cracks, pinching, kinking, corrosion, abrasion, or other damage caused by accident, collision, assembly or usage."
Check air inlet atop radiator for blockage, then thru filter and box to throttle body for same plus tears, holes, etc.
How is fuel quality, has it been in tank for a long time?
As flomaster suggested, Leaking injectors
Restrictions in fuel return line, CHECK FUEL PRESSURE LEAKDOWN
Connect the Fuel Pressure Test Kit at the fuel pressure test point.
Connect a jumper to the FP lead of the DLC.
Key on, engine off.
Ground the test lead using the jumper wire to run the fuel pump.
Run the fuel pump for 30 seconds minimum.
Remove the test lead ground and note fuel pressure on the gauge.
Verify whether the fuel pressure remains within the specified 5 psi for 1 minute after the test lead is ungrounded.
Does fuel pressure remain within 5 psi for 1 minute after the test lead is ungrounded?
Read more, same as 90 @ http://www.thedieselstop.com/faq/9497faq/maint/vra/leftside=vras9al.htm&rightside=vras9ar.htm
Clogged exhaust, thus lowering vacuum. A vac gauge is best low cost test and MPG helper you can spend $ on.
Exhaust leaks before or near the HO2S will dump raw oxygen on the O2 sensor and can make the system attempt to go rich.
Fuel pressure regulator; pull vac hose off, any gas in it or gas aroma means it's bad because it's diaphragm ruptured.
Captain red beard
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I don't think I mentioned it before but it runs smooth, but feels like I am constantly pulling a super heavy trailer. It feels like it has good low end torque but no top end speed. I'm new to Broncos so maybe that's just how they drive. If it is then I'm fine with that. Just trying to work out all the kinks before I start dumping money into it to make it a really sweet looking ride.
Yo Sam,
See if you can get a vacuum gauge. Some parts stores have them under a loan a tool program or the hand held vacuum pump with gauge.
Bring the engine (6007) to normal operating temperature. Connect Rotunda Vacuum/Pressure Tester 164-R0253 or equivalent to the intake manifold (9424). Run the engine at the specified idle speed.
The vacuum gauge should read between 15 and 22 in-Hg depending upon the engine condition and the altitude at which the test is performed. SUBTRACT 5.5 kPa FOR EVERY 500 METERS ABOVE SEA LEVEL. SUBTRACT ONE INCH FROM THE SPECIFIED READING FOR EVERY 1,000 FEET OF ELEVATION ABOVE SEA LEVEL.
The reading should be quite steady. It may be necessary to adjust the gauge damper control (where used) if the needle is fluttering rapidly. Adjust damper until needle moves easily without excessive flutter.
See Vacuum Gauge Readings, Interpretation
@ http://www.diesel-dave.com/vehic/manual/stj/stj30013.htm
This is by Ford:
Since driving habits can have a significant influence on fuel economy, verify the concern before starting an in-depth diagnosis. Also, the following external factors could contribute to "poor fuel economy" conditions:
Stop/Go City Driving
Tire Pressure/Size, do you have over sized tires/ wheels?
Vehicle Loads (Trailer Towing, etc.)
Extended Winter Warm-up Conditions
High Speed Driving
Axle Ratio
Road/Weather Conditions
After Market Add-ons
Short-Run Operations
Customer Expectations/Driving Habits
...
Air filter, is it relatively clean?
Air inlet atop radiator support to filter box and to throttle body; look for obstruction; damaged tubing
Fuel quality:
Top Tier Gasoline... see http://www.toptiergas.com
Oxidized fuel often turns darker over time and may even smell sour. You can check stored gasoline by pouring some into a clear glass container and comparing it side-by-side with known fresh gasoline. If your old sample looks noticeably darker than the fresh gas, you have strong evidence the gas has gone bad.
See if you can get a vacuum gauge. Some parts stores have them under a loan a tool program or the hand held vacuum pump with gauge.
Bring the engine (6007) to normal operating temperature. Connect Rotunda Vacuum/Pressure Tester 164-R0253 or equivalent to the intake manifold (9424). Run the engine at the specified idle speed.
The vacuum gauge should read between 15 and 22 in-Hg depending upon the engine condition and the altitude at which the test is performed. SUBTRACT 5.5 kPa FOR EVERY 500 METERS ABOVE SEA LEVEL. SUBTRACT ONE INCH FROM THE SPECIFIED READING FOR EVERY 1,000 FEET OF ELEVATION ABOVE SEA LEVEL.
The reading should be quite steady. It may be necessary to adjust the gauge damper control (where used) if the needle is fluttering rapidly. Adjust damper until needle moves easily without excessive flutter.
See Vacuum Gauge Readings, Interpretation
@ http://www.diesel-dave.com/vehic/manual/stj/stj30013.htm
This is by Ford:
Since driving habits can have a significant influence on fuel economy, verify the concern before starting an in-depth diagnosis. Also, the following external factors could contribute to "poor fuel economy" conditions:
Stop/Go City Driving
Tire Pressure/Size, do you have over sized tires/ wheels?
Vehicle Loads (Trailer Towing, etc.)
Extended Winter Warm-up Conditions
High Speed Driving
Axle Ratio
Road/Weather Conditions
After Market Add-ons
Short-Run Operations
Customer Expectations/Driving Habits
...
Air filter, is it relatively clean?
Air inlet atop radiator support to filter box and to throttle body; look for obstruction; damaged tubing
Fuel quality:
Top Tier Gasoline... see http://www.toptiergas.com
Oxidized fuel often turns darker over time and may even smell sour. You can check stored gasoline by pouring some into a clear glass container and comparing it side-by-side with known fresh gasoline. If your old sample looks noticeably darker than the fresh gas, you have strong evidence the gas has gone bad.
