93 bronco xlt possible fuel pump issues

[tonyrod12]

I live in oregon, and I was on my way up to the mountain. As soon as I got to the mountain my bronco all of a sudden turned off and I had to pull off to the side of the road. I started it, but it idled rough. Then I put it into drive and pushed the gas but it wouldnt go. I dropped it down to 1st gear and it barely started to move. The check engine light was on. This has happened about 3 times in the past 2 weeks? What could be my problem?

 

[miesk5]

yo!

Do a self test for Codes;

by my buddy here, BroncoJoe!

http://broncozone.co..._mode__threaded

important noted from Joe's diy article;

Run it around to heat the engine up and shift thru all gears incl Reverse. Then turn off all accessories/lights, etc.

Make sure A/C is off and transmission is in Park (automatic) or in Neutral for a Manual & release clutch

There are two types of EEC Self-Tests, Key On Engine Off (KOEO) & Key On Engine Running (KOER).

The engine temperature must be greater than 50°F (10°C) to pass the KOEO Self-Test and greater than 180°F (82°C) to pass the KOER Self-Test.

Post Codes here or look em up in my site using da SEARCH feature.. some Codes will be repeated a lot bec. they are used in different sections of my site... type ia code number such as 123

Remember that a code comes up for say.. DTC 87 FP relay circuit failure; may not be the relay itself..suspect inertia switch, fusible link, FP relay or EEC relay &/or socket corrosion, etc. so save $ on parts replacement for now until codes are checked and analyzed.

--

Next is, if needed would be a fuel pressure check, read and see how to Test pressure at the fuel rail with a gauge

;

the 5.0L, 5.8L and 7.5L EFI engines in-tank mounted high pressure fuel pump is capable of supplying 105 liters (27.7 gallons) of fuel per hour at a working pressure of 270.0 kPa (39 psi).

Pressure During KOER Self Test; 4.9 (45-60 PSI), 5.0 (30-45 PSI), 5.8 (30-45 PSI) & 7.5 (30-45 PSI); read more for KOEO PSI Source: by Steve83 (Steve, That dirty old truck) at http://www.supermotors.net/clubs/superford/vehicles/registry/media/283459_1

see diagram on how to run fuel pump using same DLC connector that BroncoJoe describes in that self test for Codes.

here it is

http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/245234/thumbnail/dlc-eeciv.jpg

Connect FP Relay (terminal A) to any ground to force the fuel pump(s) on when the key is in RUN.

 

[tonyrod12]

When I get the codes how do I know what they mean? I understand what to do but how do I understand the codes?

 

[Seabronc]

Do the checks that Miesk5 suggested, and also do this. Just a possibility based on past experience. Take the distributor cap off and look for evidence of arching. Look for what looks like light scratches. I've had that happen to me and usually only happened under load like going up a hill. It sort of sounds like either that or the ignition module, but don't change them unless you have pretty much determined it is one of them.

good luck,

>-

 

[tonyrod12]

Ok so my distributor cap (interior) is all scratched. Just replace the cap that's it? Or is something causing all the scratching. Also the interior cap spark contacts r all corrosive.

 

[Seabronc]

Ok so my distributor cap (interior) is all scratched. Just replace the cap that's it? Or is something causing all the scratching. Also the interior cap spark contacts r all corrosive.

Yes, Once arcing starts inside a cap there is nothing else to do but replace it. Usually the problem is caused by age and moisture.

good luck,

>-

 

[BroncoJoe19]

When you replace the cap, be careful, and replace one wire at a time, so that you do not get them out of order.

 

[Rons beast]

If there is arcing the cap it is because the voltage demand to fire the plugs has grown and the resistence is less in the cap, than through the wires and the gap at the plugs. ( path of least resistence).

Like Seabronc, and Joe said change the cap, may as well do the rotor, and if the wallet agrees change the wires and plugs too.

If you make alot of trips to the mountains the plug gap may have to be reduced.

Good luck

 

[tonyrod12]

ok guys im stuck again. it did the same thing again on me. but this time i was just on the freeway driving on flat land. it stopped but did not turn off. i pulled over off to the side of the road and the idoling was not bad, but the compression on giving it gas was bad. when i pushed the gas it didnt want to go. when i stopped i turned off the truck and sat for about 5 minutes and then started it. after that the truck ran just fine. i guess ill try to change the spark plugs next.

its seems to happen everytime i run the truck for awhile this happens. i can get away with short distance drive like less than 30minutes but when it goes past that, thats when it seems to act up. its crazy because in december i just drove from deep south texas all the way to portland, oregon (3,000 miles) and it ran perfectly fine. now i havent changed the spark plugs since, but honeslty its only been about 5,ooo miles.

let me know what you guys think!

thanks

 

[Rons beast]

What was the result of the tests Miesk5 suggested?

 

[tonyrod12]

Hey guys thanks for all ur help, I just wanted to let u know for future reference that the problem was the EFFECT sensor that went out. It was getting stuck closed and my engine was getting hot and the computer was tell the truck to turn off b4 the engine blew.

 

[tonyrod12]

My bad the problem was the *EGR sensor*