93 Bronco 5.0L tune ups

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Musicman93

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Hey everyone, I have recently got a 93 Bronco and I'm curious what I can do to this engine to give it more horsepower, but without doing internal work. Changing distributors, removing emission control, that sort of thing. It's a 5.0L EFI engine. Thanks!

 

miesk5

96 Bronco 5.0
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Yo,

Welcome!

First, try a Self Test for Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTC)s by my pal, BroncoJoe19 @

http://broncozone.com/topic/14269-code-reader/?pid=74587&mode=threaded

Some basics;

The engine temperature must be greater than 50° F for the Key On Engine Off (KOEO) Self-Test and greater than 180° F for the Key On Engine Running (KOER) Self-Test.

Run it around to heat the engine up and shift thru all gears including Reverse.

Make sure A/C is off and transmission is in Park (automatic); or in Neutral for a Manual & release clutch.

Then turn off engine, all accessories/lights (close driver's door) , etc.

Do KOEO test First

Post Code(s) here according to:

KOEO

&

KOER

...

For low cost; consider this Sixlitre Tune:

Open up the plug gap to .055

If needed, new Motorcraft plugs, 8mm wires (ensure wires are routed according to diagram atop radiator support, see below), cap & rotor.

If coil is not original Motorcraft, wait until it fails and drop a Motorcraft coil in there. See why below.

Bump the timing out to 13.5 degrees from the stock 10 (after you've checked where it was to begin with). If pinging upon acceleration, move it back a degree.

...

COLD air intake - insulate air intake from grille entry area to throttle body. Such as this Air Tube & Box Insulation pics in a 94 5.0; Ken used Reflectix Insulation, avail @ Lowes. etc. ST16025 - 16" x 25 feet.

miesk5 Note; Ken removed the cold air intake tube that runs to the top of the radiator; but he could have installed the intake tube section later.

Source: by Ken B (Kenny's 94) @ http://www.supermotors.net/clubs/superford/registry/9319/29460#content

...

EFI Performance Upgrades by Ryan M @ http://www.fuelinjectedford.com/page9.html

Ryan recommends for a good fuel injection truck cam:

intake duration @ 0.50" should be kept at or under 210

Gross valve lift should be kept under 0.500

Lobe seperation should be at or above 114°

Good 5.0L/5.8L (302/351) EFI hydraulic flat tappet cams:

Comp Cam 35-255-5

* Duration at .050 in.: 210 / 214

* Gross valve lift: 0.478 / 0.485

* Lobe separation: 114°

Edelbrock 3782

* Duration at .050 in.: 210 / 216

* Gross valve lift: 0.469 / 0.484

* Lobe separation: 116°

Crane Cams 444232

* Duration at .050 in.: 206 / 214

* Gross valve lift: 0.448 / 0.464

* Lobe separation: 114°

Stock 5.0 is:

* Duration at .050 in.: 210 / 211

* Gross valve lift: 0.421 / 0.447

* Lobe separation: 116°

Best 302/351 EFI roller cams:

89-95 Mustang 5.0L **

Ford Part numbers: E8ZE-6250-CA / F1ZE-6250-AA / F4ZE-6250-DA

* Advertised Duration: 276 / 266

* Duration at .050 in.: 214 / 210

* Gross valve lift: 0.444 / 0.444

* Lobe separation: 115°

Can be found on eBay or Mustang forums cheap

Several 1993-95 Gen 1 Lightnings going 11 sec 1/4 times

Good idle, good torque.

Another thing to consider with aftermarket cams: the duration is almost always higher, making the power band higher in the operating range. That means getting off the line is going to be more difficult, i.e. slower. This is a miserable situation (voice of experience speaking) since you'll have to punch the accelerator more just to maintain speed in OD, get moving in traffic, wait longer to pass someone, etc.

The factory camshafts aren't bad at all. It should be the very last item to consider changing in a small-block Ford.

Ryan wrote elsewhere, "The cams I listed above are about all you have to choose from. If you have a carb, or feel like spending $750-$3000 on programmable EFI you can pick out what ever cam you want...If anyone buys a higher performance cam than the above limits for a stock truck computer, they will ruin the dependability of the truck. Fuel ratios will be way off, and idle will be so bad the owner will sell the truck...

...if you live in CA. My reasoning is that any cam that would pass CA inspection and keep the computer happy wouldn't be much of an improvment over stock.

...Camshaft is never a starting point. The stock cam can outperform the intake and exhaust, and possible the heads. you have to look at the total package and replace the week points. Cam is far down the line in weak points...

***

How to Set the timing on an EFI Ford by Ryan M @ http://www.fuelinjectedford.com/page71.html

Here is Ryans site http://www.fuelinjectedford.com/page1.html

He did have a Parts site, but he is out of business.

...

Motorcraft TFI Ignition Coil Attributes

Source: by SeattleFSB

"Many Bronco owners shop for an ignition coil by looking for the highest voltage available. But I venture to say that there is much more to look for in achieving both a quality ignition system and saving money in the long run.

For clarification, it takes approximately 10-14,000 volts to initiate the spark across the OEM spark plug gap. After the initial arc, the voltage required to sustain the arc is much less and drops off significantly. So while you may have a 48,000v coil you can't actually get that across the plug. The extra power becomes reserve voltage which compensates for worn plugs, increasing resistance in wires and carbon fouling. This increased stress can require an additional 1-5000 volts.

Fact is a higher voltage coil does not work any better, it just lasts longer due to having a higher reserve reducing heat. You cannot push more than 20,000 volts across a spark plug without bad things happening. If you were to try you would see arcing down the side of the plug, across carbon buildups at the electrode end and out any weak points in the wire insulation and connections.

The bottom line is the ideal coil output required for normal applications is about 30,000 volts. So no, your coil does not need to be 48,000v for proper ignition. The benefit would be in having enough reserve to compensate for high resistance due to a worn or altered ignition system.

This is why the Sixlitre Tune recommends a 48,000v coil and larger spark plug wires – to compensate for a substantial increase in resistance from larger than specified spark plug gaps. You are adding resistance as the spark attempts to reach ground. This in turn causes the plug wires to break down and decreases the service life of the rotor, distributor cap, spark plugs and increases the chance of spark scatter within the Distributor Cap.

Think about it, you are setting your spark plugs at a maximum gap even before wear. The higher voltage coil does not reduce stress and wear on your ignition system; it only compensates within a larger margin and then ultimately becomes dependent upon the quality of construction for survival. When opening up your spark plug gap from factory specifications you must be prepared to check your secondary ignition system annually, as opposed to about 40,000 miles with a stock vehicle, or risk performance decreases down the road.

With that being said, IMHO the Motorcraft DG470 TFI Coil is one of the most dependable 48,000v TFI Coils on the market. This is largely due to the quality in design, testing and construction. I have personally had many dependability issues with other imported TFI Coils, such as MSD. Where a Motorcraft Coil has lasted 15 years, I have went through three MSD coils in five years. Your purchase of a TFI Coil should not be totally dependent upon the voltage, but strong consideration should also be made regarding the contruction attributes listed below:

Motorcraft TFI Ignition Coil Attributes

Insulation - Multiple coats on the primary and secondary windings to ensure no internal arcing

Radio-Frequency Interference (RFI) Suppression - Minimize electronic noise

Magnets - Hold strength for the coil to maintain proper energy output

Steel - Used in the lamination stack to ensure a consistent magnetic field needed to develop the required voltage

Coil Housing - Engineered to withstand extremes in temperature without cracking

Low Quality TFI Ignition Coil Potential Issues

Rough Running Engine or Misfires - Causing Check Engine Light

Fuel Economy and Power Decrease – Costs money and performance

Radio Frequency Interference – Affects radio, EEC, sensors, cell phone

Pre-Ignition and Detonation – Can cause engine damage

Weak Voltage Output – Can cause increase tailpipe emissions..."

...

Visual Check

1.Inspect the air cleaner and inlet ducting.

2.Check all engine vacuum hoses for damage, leaks, cracks, blockage, proper routing according to decal atop radiator support, etc.

3.Check EEC system wiring harness for proper connections, bent or broken pins, corrosion, loose wires, proper routing, etc.

4.Check the Powertrain Control Module (PCM), sensors and actuators for physical damage; IAC, TPS, etc.

5.Check the engine coolant for proper level and mixture.

6.Check the transmission fluid level and quality.

...

Free:

Reduce weight of the Bronco and tools, accessories and ... passengers; driver's get a pass; also, grille guards, side steps, etc.

Ensure that brakes are not dragging.

Dirty air filter Causes excessively rich fuel/air mixture; some over-oil K&N filters, Purolator filters are same as Motorcraft.

O2 sensor trouble code causes computer, aka Electronic Engine Control to be Unable to detect and adjust ptoper air/fuel mixture.

Dirty or substandard engine oil Increases internal engine friction.

Read Project M.P.G. in a Centurion 460; miesk5 Note, Results are Comparable to Tests in other Ford Engines.

by performanceunlimited.com

FOUR WHEELER Magazine's Project M.P.G.

@ http://performanceunlimited.com/projectmpg/

Here are the results,

http://performanceunlimited.com/projectmpg/img70.gif

Some use this information while others write that the results are not achievable.

...

Spark Plug Wire Routing & Firing Order TSB 94-04-10 for 87-93 5.0 & 94-96 5.0 & all 5.8 - engine miss, spark knock, buck/***** surge and other driveability concerns; MIESK5 NOTE; The firing order for 1987-1993 5.0Ls is 1-5-4-2-6-3-7-8. If #7 and #8, or #2 and #4 spark plug wires are routed next to each other at the separation bracket, an induction crossfire condition can occur. & The firing order for 1994 5.0Ls & all 5.8Ls is 1-3-7-2-6-5-4-8. On these vehicles the #1 and #3, or #5 and #6 spark plug wires must be separated to eliminate the possibility of an induction crossfire. To eliminate the possibility of the coil wire becoming disconnected, route the coil wire under the spark plug wires at the distributor cap. by Ford via http://ww2.justanswer.com/uploads/adchambers3398/2008-09-03_215346_78wire.pdf

...

Some exhaust swap info;

93 w/Bassani Y-pipe & high flow cat pics in a 5.8

Source: by Dustin J (SOLD, rokhrse, sukngas) at http://www.supermotors.net/clubs/superford/registry/1309/33328#content

94 w/Bassani Y pipe & Walker DynoMax® Turbos & 2.5 inch duals pics in a 5.0

Source: by Ken B (Kenny's 94) at http://www.supermotors.net/clubs/superford/registry/9319/27488#content

92 w/Ford Racing Headers, Catco Y-pipe, Aerochamber muffler in a 5.0

Source: by topfisherman at http://www.supermotors.net/registry/3280/50275

...

BBK 61mm Throttle Body pics in an 89 5.8

Source: by Bonzai at http://www.supermotors.net/clubs/fullsizebronco/vehicles/registry/15212/55670

Will post for now in case site or tablet freezes.

 

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