92 Bronco randomly stalls when brake is tapped.

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fordfan2012

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I'm as dumb on cars as can be but I'm trying my hardest to learn. I've had a '92 Bronco XLT just sitting in front of my house for the last year. I just now decided to bring it back to life. In September of 2009 the transmission started acting up and since it wasn't a required vehicle for daily driving it wasn't really bothered with. Fast forward to November of 2011 I put a new transmission in it and a new brake line. It was running fine but I let it sit again until today when I finally started driving it.

It drives fine, but it will randomly stall out if I hit my brakes. It won't stall while the car is moving only if I allow it to come to a complete stop and not very often but enough to be concerned. It has a brand new battery (bought today), new fluids (all put in today}, plus the new transmission and brake line. I assumed it would just be the battery causing this. I've only noticed the issues with it late this afternoon so I haven't been able to get it to an auto store so they can do one of those computer plug in troubleshooting things.

Is there anything I'm missing? Could spark plugs be a cause of this? That has been mentioned to me...

I just want to get the thing finally running. I totaled my other car and this is in desperate need to be a reliable daily driver asap.

 

Krafty

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well as im famous for saying, tune ups. check your plugs, replace your fuel filter check your air filter and possibly plug wires and distributor cap and rotor. all of these items are cheap and general use and wear can cause a lot of driving issues that most people associate with more serious problems.

at that point if the problem still continues I would be leaning towards a low idle issue or some sort of vacuum issue because the brake booster uses engine vacuum to assist in braking.

 

miesk5

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yo fordfan2012,

WELCOME!

The code check will help a lot;

Try a DIY test too; Self Test for Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTC)s by my pal, BroncoJoe19

http://broncozone.com/topic/14269-code-reader/page__pid__74587__mode__threaded

ensure that the engine temperature must be greater than 50° F for the Key On Engine Off (KOEO) Self-Test and greater than 180° F for the Key On Engine Running (KOER) Self-Test.

Run it around to heat the engine up and shift thru all gears incl Reverse. Then turn off all accessories/lights, etc.

Make sure A/C is off and transmission is in Park (automatic) or in Neutral for a Manual & release clutch.

Do Key On Engine Off (KOEO) portion first.

Look Codes up in my broncolinks.com site using the new Search function.

And Post em here according to:

KOEO

&

KOER

Hope it is not this

Torque Converter Clutch (TCC) Solenoid:

Torque converter clutch solenoid provides torque converter clutch control by shifting the converter clutch control valve to apply or release the torque converter clutch.

Symptoms:

Failed on - engine stalls in drive at idle low speeds with brake applied or manual 2.

Failed off - converter clutch never engages. May flash transmission control indicator lamp.

Diagnostic Trouble Codes: 629,* P0741,** P0743,** P1743, P1742, P1744.

(*Output circuit check, generated only by electrical condition. **May also be generated by other non-electronic related transmission hardware condition.)

Solenoid Overview, DTC (s), Connector Pin-Out Diagram, Operation Chart, etc.: "...The powertrain control module controls the E4OD transmission operation through four on/off solenoids and one Variable Force Solenoid. These solenoids and transmission fluid temperature sensor are housed in the transmission solenoid body assembly. All are part of the transmission solenoid body and are not serviced individually

Solenoid Body Connector Location; "...It's on the passenger side of the transmission. You'll need to remove a small heat shield (two bolts) next to the catalytic converter, and probably clean away a TON of gunk before yanking it. Ford wasn't too bright in designing the placement of this connector. The connector has a single press-in tab latching it in place, IIRC; It looks like this, e4od-solenoid-body-connector.jpg

and there's only one locking tab on it technically. But if you look at the bottom of the picture, there's one of those Ford-style mechanisms that should (repeat should) separate upon pulling the connector. You may find it helpful to pinch both sides of the connector while pulling on the harness (it won't hurt the connector). The corrosion can really be a bitch to pull against. If you still can't pull it off, you may find it beneficial to use a flat-blade screwdriver and apply some leverage to it from underneath. Make sure you've got plenty of light under there to see all..."

Source: by SigEpBlue (Steve)

DTC 566 or 629 indicates the CCO or SS3/4-4/3 did not change state when requested by the PCM.

Possible causes:

Damaged solenoid/assembly.

Open or shorted harness (internal/external).

Damaged PCM.

Note: Do not use a STAR Tester for this step. Use a VOM or DVOM.

Disconnect electrical connector on the speed control servo, if equipped.

VOM/DVOM on 20 volt scale.

Connect negative test lead to STO circuit at Data Link Connector (DLC) and meter positive test lead to B+.

Jumper STI circuit to SIG RTN at the DLC.

Perform Key On Engine Off Self-Test until Continuous Memory DTC have been displayed.

VOM/DVOM will indicate less than 1.0 volt when test is complete.

Depress and release throttle.

Does voltage increase?

Yes REMAIN in Output State DTM. GO to TC2.

No DEPRESS throttle to WOT and RELEASE. If STO voltage does not go high, PERFORM Pinpoint Test Step QC1. Leave equipment hooked up.

TC2 CHECK SOLENOID ELECTRICAL OPERATION

Key on, engine off.

Disconnect transmission connector.

Using a mirror, inspect both ends of the connector for damaged or pushed out pins, corrosion, loose wires, etc. Service as necessary.

Refer to this schematic and table.

94transcoonnectorBronco E4OD.gif

Test Pins 35 and 37/57

EPCPWR Application Wire Color

4.9L, 5.0L, 5.8L & 7.5L RED

7.3L Diesel W/R

Solenoid PCM Signal Output Pin KOEO DTC

SS1 52 (S1) 91/621

SS2 19 (S2) 92/622

CCS 55 93/626

TCC 53 94/629

EPC 38 99/624, 625

Connect VOM/DVOM positive test lead to VPWR circuit and negative test lead to solenoid circuit of the transmission vehicle harness connector.

VOM/DVOM on 20 volt scale.

While observing DVOM, depress and release throttle several times to cycle solenoid output ON and OFF.

Does the suspect solenoid output voltage change at least 0.5 volt?

Yes RECONNECT connector. REFER to the Transmission Group in the Service Manual.

No REMOVE jumper wire. GO to TC3.

TC3 CHECK CONTINUITY OF SOLENOID SIGNAL AND VPWR HARNESS CIRCUITS

Key off.

Solenoid transmission connector disconnected.

Disconnect Powertrain Control Module (PCM). Inspect for damaged or pushed out pins, corrosion, loose wires, etc. Service as necessary.

Install breakout box, leave PCM disconnected.

Refer to schematic and table in this Pinpoint Test.

Measure resistance between suspect PCM signal output pin at the breakout box and signal output pin at transmission vehicle harness connector.

Measure resistance between Test Pin 37/57 at the breakout box and VPWR pin at transmission vehicle harness connector.

Is each resistance less than 5.0 ohms?

Yes GO to TC4.

No SERVICE open circuit(s). REMOVE breakout box. RECONNECT all components. RERUN Quick Test.

TC4 CHECK SOLENOID HARNESS FOR SHORTS TO POWER OR GROUND

Key off.

Breakout box installed, PCM disconnected.

Transmission connector disconnected.

Refer to schematic and table in this Pinpoint Test.

Measure resistance between PCM signal output pin and Test Pin 37/57 at the breakout box.

Measure resistance between PCM signal output pin and Test Pins 40/60 and 46 at the breakout box and chassis ground.

Is each resistance greater than 10,000 ohms?

Yes REFER to Service Manual, Transmission Diagnosis for internal harness and solenoids. IF OK, REPLACE PCM. REMOVE breakout box. RECONNECT all components. RERUN Quick Test.

No SERVICE short circuits. REMOVE breakout box. RECONNECT all components. RERUN Quick Test.

 

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fordfan2012

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Say for instance it is the Torque Converter Clutch (TCC) Solenoid:, is the car still able to be a daily driver for about a month before I can get the money to get it to a shop?

 

Rons beast

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My first inclination would be a vacuum leak as Krafty suggested. Remove the vacuum line from the booster and plug the line, (or squeeze the line shut.) Then start the engine and hit the brakes,to see if it still stalls. If the problem is gone, there is a vacuum leak in the booster.

There is a rubber diaphram in the booster, It could have a split or a rotted spot. It isn't uncommon for vehicle that have been sitting for awhile.

 

Bully Bob

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A quick test (with eng. runn'n in neutral) of the power brake vacuum system is to stick your head down by the floorboard & listen for a hiss when you push the brake pedal by hand. A hiss would indicate a booster leak.

Usually RPM's will change (as you press the pedal) if there's a leak.

Do the same under the hood... i.e. look & listen to the hose feeding the booster.

Any vac. leak(s) can create a lean condition in 1 or more cylinders.

Most auto parts stores will do a code-read for free, should the booster check good.

 

BroncoJoe19

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Hi Guys,

Nothing like coming late to the party eh?

One other brake pedal related vacuum leak might be a cruise control vacuum dump switch.

 

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