yo,
When was fuel fitler last changed?
Quick test is to Test Fuel Pressure Regulator (FPR); remover vacuum line & check for gas aroma or gas; if any, replace FPR
No Start Troubleshooting but Starter Cranks Engine Testing, General; "...Misdiagnosis is the leading cause of fuel pump returns. If the engine runs but displays driveability symptoms that you suspect are fuelrelated (hard starting, hesitation, misfiring, power loss), first attempt to eliminate other possible causes of the problem. Make sure the engine is in good mechanical condition. An engine may not start or run properly for many reasons. BE SURE TO CHECK: Fuel in the vehicle tank is adequate (add 2 to 3 gallons as needed). Fuel is fresh and of good quality. Fuel system has no leaks. Fuel filter has been replaced. Fuel delivery electrical system checks OK. Engine mechanical systems check OK. Engine electrical system checks OK. Ignition system checks OK. Charging system checks OK. Battery voltage is at least 12.4 volts. Cranking voltage at the starter is at least 9.6 volts. Inertia switch is reset (typical of Ford applications). Oil pressure and RPM signals are present (various applications). THE MOST COMMON REASONS FOR REPEAT FUEL PUMP FAILURE ARE: Misdiagnosis: Pump is OK, fault lies elsewhere! Not measuring fuel volume. Not replacing fuel filter and strainer(s). Fuel contamination. Not properly cleaning and flushing inside of fuel tank. Not correcting vehicle electrical connector, wiring and ground issues. Not resetting a tripped inertia switch. Not checking for oil pressure and RPM signals..."
Source: by Airtex
No Start Troubleshooting, but Starter Cranks Engine in 4.9, 5.0, or 5.8L; "....TIP 1: Since a lot of folks confuse a No Crank Condition with a No Start Condition... I'll clear it up right now: In a No Start Condition means your vehicle's Starter Motor is cranking the Engine but the Engine is not starting. In a No Crank Condition, the Engine is not cranking when you turn the key to crank the Engine. This article only deals with a No Start Condition..." read more
Source: by easyautodiagnostics.com
This ia long process... but a shop would charge quite a few $
Also try a
Self Test for Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTC)s by my pal, BroncoJoe19The engine temperature must be greater than 50° F for the Key On Engine Off (KOEO) Self-Test and greater than 180° F for the Key On Engine Running (KOER) Self-Test.
Run it around to heat the engine up and shift thru all gears incl Reverse. Then turn off all accessories/lights, etc.
Make sure A/C is off and transmission is in Park (automatic) or in Neutral for a Manual & release clutch.
Do Key On Engine Off (KOEO) portion first.
Look Codes up in my broncolinks.com site using the new Search function.
And Post em here according to:
KOEO
&
KOER
--
Starter; snap pics and post them here of the wear pattern on the old starter's drive pinion teeth & compare to new unit; pattern should be on the meaty center part of the gear; some rebuilt units aren't as good as a Ford Motorcraft rebuilt unit. Or as Tilton advises in following article, take it to a local rebuilder to inspect & advise.
following applies to the 92-96 PMGR (Permanent Magnet Gear Reduction) starters but is applicable;
Pinion to Ring Gear Clearance Info; "...When installing the Permanent Magnet Starter, the relationship between the pinion and ring gear is important. Due to the starter's high operating torque, damage to the pinion and ring gear will occur if the recommended clearance is out of spec. The clearance will typically be in spec if you are using the correct starter for your application. There is a much greater chance of having clearance problems if you have a modified flywheel, ring gear, bellhousing or crankshaft. Tilton Engineering Product Line: Tilton Starter Shims Part Type: Starter Shim Kits Part Number: TIL-54-958 Shim Material: Steel Starter Bolts Included: Yes Quantity: Sold as a kit. "...These Tilton starter shims are a must when installing a starter. You'll need these shims to ensure proper gap between the starter and flywheel..." thus Tilton shows this Pinion to Ring Gear Cearance Info & DiagramI hope this helps to show what can happen. I own a 1988 F-150, and it has 245,000 miles. I replaced the original starter about 4 years ago and have had good results since. I have not checked endplay, but have heard of people with up to an inch of endplay where there should be a just a small amount of play. When obtaining a replacement starter, get one from a smaller local rebuilder that specializes in alternators and starters (check yellow pages or web). These smaller shops handle rebuilds with more care and in general, they tend to use better quality parts than the mass rebuilders that supply the chain stores. They are also good to talk to in a case like this since they have seen so many failed starters..."
Source: by Tilton Engineering
Shims for Ford 2 bolt type, WAI PN 76-2306; "Shims needed due to worn ****** bearings in engine; Replaces Ford D7TZ-11N004; 2.3mm (.090 in.) T; Used w/ 2 or 3-hole D.E. housings. On engines with worn ****** bearings, the excessive crankshaft end play may cause pinion damage when the flywheel moves toward the starter. The 76-2306 helps prevent pinion damage by backing the starter away from the crankshaft flywheel..."
Source: by wai-wetherill.com via web.archive.org
