90 Bronco Maintenance

[90Bronco_EB]

I just bought a 1990 Bronco, Eddie Bauer. Seems to be in good condition. Only problems I was told about was that the gas guage doesn't work and the AC is weak. Found the topic on what to do to about the gas guage, thanks.

Yesterday I felt a real rough rattle like I was driving over rough terrain but i was on a flat road. Anyone know what this might be? I am a wanta-be mechanic on this Bronco. What else should I be checking on this model? What are the steps to do a tune-up and is it something I can do myself. I hope it is, that is one reason I bought the truck.

Thanks for all the help.

 

[Bronc76]

90- the first thing i did was go out to the local part store and bought a chilton and haynes repair manuals. this should get you familiar with your vehicle. (theres nothing satisfying when you can work on your own when it goes right) :lol: the tune up you can do yourself (plugs, wires, cap, etc.) just remember your firing order. (where each wire goes). as far as the rattle, it could be a number of things, start looking for things that might be loose or wore out bushings. i had a heat shield that was loose that drove me nuts til i found it.

 

[Justshootme84]

I would check ALL fluid levels, including the engine, tranny, t-case and axles. The haynes/ Chilton repair manual is a great suggestion, there's one for 80-96 F-series trucks & Bronco, which costs under $20. look for the folowing when checking the fluid level & condition:

1. OIL - make sure the level is at the mark on the dipstick. the oil may be black, indicating it's time to change it. If it's milky or looks like chocolate milk, there's water in it = bad. Gas in the oil is also bad. Don't forget to change the filter with a MotorCraft version. If you have a hacksaw, you can cut the old filter in half and look for metal filings or sludge build-up. Look for any leaks on the motor.

2. COOLANT - should be full to the top of the radiator, check the overflow tank for proper level and any leaks. IF the coolant is brown/ rusty, you may want to flush the entire system. The auto tranny coolere lines run to the side tanks on the radiator, check for any leaks.

3. Trans fluid - should be dark red, check with engine running. If it's brown or smells burnt, the tranny needs service. If it's bright pink like Pepto Bismol, coolant is getting mixed with it from a leak, usually at the radiator.

4. Power steering fluid - check the level and color, should be dark red. Look for leaks, esp. under the steering box.

5. Brake fluid - Remove the cover on the master cylinder to check the level. The color should be like honey, or fresh fluid. If it's dark or black, it may have water or dirt in it and will cause headaches. The manual will show you how to bleed the brakes. The ABS sensors are notorious for going bad and lighting up the warning lamp on the dash.

6. Transfer case fluid - uses transmission fluid, Mercon III, same as the auto tranny. Check level by removing the top fill plug, and stick your pinky finger in the hole. The fluid level whould be within 1/2" of the hole.

Axles - Both front and rear axles use gear oil, but the limited slip models need a special type. The front has no drain hole, so a vacuum pump is needed to change the oil. Again, look for any leaks at the pinion and the wheels. take a good look at the rear wheel brake cylinders for any leaks, too.

Fuel - Change the fuel filter, and look for any signs of water in the system. IF the gas smells like paint thinner, it may be really old and will cause problems.

Lastly, be sure to **** the muffler bearings (J/K)!!!

JSM84

 

[90Bronco_EB]

Thanks Guys. I'm on it.

 

[BroncoJoe19]

Next I'd read through this thread and learn how to pull diagnostic codes.

It is possible that it may turn some things up that should be maintained, without setting a check engine light.

Pull Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTCs) From your onboard computer.

Your engine and transmission are computer controlled.

The computer uses sensors to tell it a number of different things and it controls actuators that push or pull mechanical levers (kinda). If one or more sensors aren't working properly, the computer goes "blind" and doesn't know what to do. If the computer can "see" but one of the actuators is broken and therefore can't follow the commands of the computer; the engine won't run correctly. The computer is preprogrammed with set values for each of its sensors, and each of its actuators. It will run a self check of all systems, like the space shuttle; it will compare its set value(s) to the value(s) it recieves from its sensors, and actuators. If any sensor or acutator is out of the "normal" range the computer will generate a "code." It will generate some codes on the fly, and others will be stored while you are driving. There is a simple method to "pull codes" out of the computer for one to use for diagnostic purposes.

Earlier versions of On Board Diagnostics OBD 1983-1995 can flash the error code to the dash board and can be pulled in one's driveway without any special tools.

Later versions of On Board Diagnostics OBDII some 1995, and pretty much all 1996 and newer, require one to use a code reader or scanner tool.

Some auto parts stores will scan your engine codes for FREE, you may want to call around. Some will scan OBDII but not the older (prior to 1996) OBD systems.

SO here you go...

How to scan FORD on board Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTCs) in your driveway

Howto Pull Codes 1983-1995 Broncos, Mustang, F series Trucks, Econolines, 302, 351 and more