yo Drake & J,
Troubleshooting Synopsis; "...The tail gate circuit is pretty easy to resolve with a meter. Attached is a diagram of the circuit. Note that there are two fuses which you may have already found out. One powers the dash switch which is powered only when the key is in RUN or ACC. The other powers the tail gate switch and that line is hot at all times. If the motor is definitely good, (which can be verified by using a set of jumper leads directly to the motor connector). Once it is verified that the motor works then the common problems are: 1. The Latch Safety switch in the left side latch, This is often a problem when the tail gate fails from both switches.(you can pull the connector and jumper it out, which many people leave permanently jumpers out). The problem can be as easy as the latch needs adjustment. So if the jumper makes it work then either leave it jumped, adjust the latching stud for a tighter fit, or replace the latch switch if testing indicates it is bad. The function of the switch is to make sure the tail gate is latched before putting the window up. I like it bypassed because it makes it easy to get the window out of the way when working inside the tail gate. I think I'm smart enough to put the window back down before closing the tail gate . The only suggestion if leaving it jumped is to support the window if it is in the up position with the tail gate down. Else it could be broken by someone leaning on it. 2. The ground return for the tail gate switch uses the same two lines the dash switch does, (the grounding point is under the dash. The dash switch changes the function of the two leads running to the tail gate window motor by grounding one and putting 12V on the other. The tail gate switch uses the two leads for the ground connection, (it requires the dash switch to be in the neutral position in order to work). Depending on the year of the truck there are 2 or 3 connectors involved that often get corroded, sometimes to the point that the wires break off the connector. In your truck, there is on connector behind the left tail light, the next common failing connector is the one on the left side of the rear frame crossover member, (it is gray, if you can still see the color, and just under and behind the bumper). So to make it short, if you can operate the motor with a set of jumper leads and the window goes up and down that way, then the problem is a connection or the Latch Safety Switch. If you can't get the tail gate open to work on it, crawl in the back and remove the tail gate panel and find the motor leads attached along the bottom edge of the opening. Disconnect them and use a long set of leads or another battery in the back with you to test the motor. Once the window is down you can open the gate to make it more comfortable to work on the problem. In the diagram you will see a black with white striped wire that goes to the tail gate key switch, you should have 12V there at all times. To get at it, you will need the window in the up position. The other two leads, (with the dash switch in the center position) should indicate that they are grounded when doing a continuity check of them). You can also check the entire path from dash switch to the tail gate key switch by using a meter and probing the wires the purple with light green stripe and the dark green with light green stripe. Have someone (with the key in RUN or ACC) moving the Dash switch from UP to Down while you check those leads for 12V. If you don't get 12V then the problem is in a connector between the two switches or a broken wire (a broken wire would most likely be where they transition between the body and tail gate due to constant flexing). The procedure would be; 12V missing on one of the wires, move back to the connector behind the tail light (missing there), move to the connector on the cross member (missing there) move back to the connectors in front, until you find where you have 12V on the line you are probing. Once you find 12V the problem is between the last point probed and where you find 12V..."
Source: by Seabronc (Rosie, Fred W) at
http://broncozone.com/topic/7671-tailgate-window-switch/
See Freds's Wiring Diagram
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J. Yes, cleaning of the tracks and weather stripping will help. Use dish soap/water to clean WS and apply Silicone paste or spray
Lubrication Discussion; "...90% of you all probably already know this so I guess I'm talking to the other 10% of us who don't/didn't. My rear window has been giving me problems for the last 4 months. It would go down a few inches and it would get stuck. Then I would either have to rock the dash switch back and forth to get it to go down or go to the back and use the key with one hand and push down the window with the other---Very frustrating. FIX: 1) First roll down the window, drop the gate and take off the inside panel (about 8 philips head screws) covering the tailgate. You will see pretty much nothing but glass after doing this. 2) Then manually flip the latches so you can use the key to roll the window back up. ***Very Important*** Put something under the window to support it--sawhorse, lawnmower or whatever. The weight of the glass could cause it to break when rolled up with the tailgate down. 3) After the glass is up you'll have access to the inside mechanisms. If you bend over and look at the underside you'll see a couple of arms that attach to two 6"-8" pieces of channel. These arms move along the channel to raise and lower the glass. 4) Get some (Miesk5 Note; use white Lithium grease) and smear inside both channels. You don't have to glob it in there just put enough that it goes completely on and along the inside of the channels. 5) Roll the glass back down. 6) Put your inside panel back on. 7) Pull your tailgate release handle one time to make your latches go back to the open position and close your tailgate. 8) Now roll up your window and see if it helped any. Mine goes up just as smooth as ever now. It doesn't slow down a bit. Now this may not work for everyone but it sure worked on my rig. Brian..BTW, this took about 45 minutes start to finish...."
Source: by msuforeman (Brian)
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If the glass is clear of the shell, but you can't open the t/g, remove the inside access panel & pull these 2 rods inward. Either unclip them from the center mechanism, or pull them like bow strings to release each latch. Make sure the glass isnt so high that it engages the campers groove, or it could break. If it wont come down, unbolt the slides from the glass, or the motor from the regulator to lower the glass.
The Bronco tailgate window circuit is a common (Ford) polarity-reversing circuit with 2 switches. Each switch has its own power feed; the dash switch through the ignition switch (key-on only) and the tailgate key switch from the battery (always hot). The dash switch normally holds both motor wires to ground, and the key switch normally holds the motor wires to the dash switch wires. When either is operated, it sends one of the wires hot, powering the motor (assuming the latch switch is closed). When operated the other way, the polarity is reversed, reversing the motor's direction. Neither switch is a "master" because neither will work if the other is in the opposite position
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Latch Safety Switch "...there is a plastic limit switch that is attached to the driver's side latch. This is actually what stops the motor from working if there is a problem with that rod. I mention this because I just tried to adjust the rod over a little . Then found that it still didn't work. Took the latch out....had to remove the window track on that side, and found that the plastic threaded piece on the limit switch was broke...keeping the window from moving at all. I replaced it with another switch from a donor tailgate..."; Miesk5 Note; In 78-82, both latches have to be closed since the interlock safety switch is mounted in the center mechanism; & their strikes that mount to the body can be interchanged with some effort. The safety switch was moved from the center (tailgate handle) to the left latch by 1983 by Seabronc (Rosie, Fred W)
Source: by h8nlife
Motor Torque Pin (also called Bushing) Info & pic; "...fixed it for free some fuel line and a few small cunks of a bolt. Here is a closeup of the bad parts. in the points of the triangle there should be 3 round pins. this help cousion the window from motor shock. I cleaned all the old grease out of the motor and the final drive. my final drive was fine so i was going to reuse it. To rebuild for almost free here is all you need. some fuel line and some steel rod or round spacer (this keeps the fuel line from colapsing completely) i cut the fuel line to the height of the drive gear housing and cut the spacers from round stock i had on the bench. the steel spacers go inside of the rubber fuel line. then the rubber fuel line and steel spacers go in the final drive gear.this was a tight fit but not too tight..."
Source: by Michael C (collinsperformance, The Money Monster) at
http://www.supermotors.net/registry/6364/52803
Motor Torque Pin (also called Bushing) Info & pics; "...A cheap, quick, & reliable repair for most Ford window motors is to replace the degraded Delrin bushings in the motor's drive gear with common 1/4" nuts (thread pitch doesn't matter). Grease is only necessary on the central shaft & the outer plastic gear teeth - not in the pockets where the nuts go..."
Glass Roller (Dorman Universal Window Roller 74402) Installation in an 85
Source: by spikedzombies (O' Black Betty) at
http://www.supermotors.net/registry/18028/66512
Glass Replacement; "...If the motor runs but doesn't move the glass, push the glass up for access. The glass is strong enough to support its own weight fully extended, but no extra weight..." miesk5 note, make sure the tailgate is resting DOWN fully (horizontally) by pushing or sitting on it before pulling glass out by hand (or closing driver side Latch by hand and using Key sw or driver's Dash switch to energize motor) because the TG's Support cables need to fully stretched. I use a standard height saw horse with a blanket folded to support da glass & sliding saw horse under da glass. To extend the glass, I close the driver's side latch's jaws on side of tailgate, I use a ***** driver to close the jaws, so that the glass can be moved by TG Key Switch or Dash Switch to work on internals; when done & window is retracted within the TG, use the Handle to release the jaws & close the TG; & in his #7; "If the motor doesn't run, remove the 4 nuts (2 on each side - see below) that hold the regulator tracks to the glass brackets. Bend the regulator arms down slightly to pull the studs out of the brackets, and then push the glass up. Remember to FULLY lower the glass before lifting or closing the t/g..."
Motor Torque Pin (also called Bushing) Info & pic; "...Dorman HELP part number 74410..."
Source: by Sixlitre (Malcolm H, Eddie Bauer) at
http://web.archive.org/web/20140520173851/http://www.supermotors.org/getfile/233770/fullsize/IMG_0020.JPG
Try pushing on driver's side rh shell to see if that operates either switch
Motor Replacement; "...If the motor runs but doesn't move the glass, push the glass up for access. The glass is strong enough to support its own weight fully extended, but no extra weight..." miesk5 note, I use a standard height saw horse with a blanket folded to support da glass.. make sure the tailgate is resting DOWN fully (horizontally) by pushing or sitting on it before pulling glass out by hand (or closing driver side Latch by hand and using Key sw or driver's Dash switch to energize motor) and sliding saw horse under da glass...the cables need to fully stretched...& in his #7; "If the motor doesn't run, remove the 4 nuts (2 on each side - see below) that hold the regulator tracks to the glass brackets. Bend the regulator arms down slightly to pull the studs out of the brackets, and then push the glass up. Remember to FULLY lower the glass before lifting or closing the t/g..."
