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(Yo i Bought my bronco with an exhaust tick, is that a really bad thnign or is it easily repaired? I was planning on taking her to mienikee so they could put on a flow master and have them fix the tick at the same time.
Id recommend finding a smaller shop, a lot of the bigger ones like that will try and gouge you sometimes.
An exhaust leak is usually an easy repair or replacement. On my 86 with the 300-I6, the gasket or doughnut between the exhaust manifold and exhaust pipe is blown out. Simple fix. On the V-8 motors, the passenger-side exhaust manifold tends to crack in half and leak. Replacement ones are $100 each. IF it's the heat riser valve for the exhaust, it also costs about $100 to replace.
I had an '82 F150 with the I6. Replaced the engine and clutch at 120K just because it had that much on it. I ran it out another 80K or so doing search and rescue work, then sold it to its 3rd owner who is still running it.
It all actually depends on if the previous owner(s) took care of the vehicle. I have had 4 cylinder Rangers go over 200k, and have seen Bronco's and other Rangers crap out at 100k or less. Make sure and ask if the owner did regular oil changes. Most people do them every 3000 miles, I myself do them every 1500 miles. Check the oil and tranny levels (if it is an automatic). Neither should smell or look burnt or very dirty. Look for metal flakes in the oil, and if there is any foam. Check the antifreeze level, make sure it is full. Drive the vehicle, look for play in the steering, is it all over the road? Check the tires, if they are wore, have they wore evenly or is there feathering or wear on the inside or outside only. Check the exahust, not only for leaks, but smoke. Look for fluid leaks. Make sure and ask if it has been in any accidents... It all depends on you, the price seems reasonable, and any Bronco is worth it to me, regaurdless of the work!
/ /emoticons/[email protected] 2x" width="20" height="20" />I was re reading this thread and noted the comment about the rust around the rear wheel wells. I'm guessing that the rust is at the top of the arch and has perforated the metal. On my '82 F150 (and Broncos I've seen around town) I tried cutting back to solid metal, sanding back 2" to bare metal and then reconstructing with rust inhibitor/convertor, primer, paint, fiberglass and body plastic. A year later more rust appeared at the edges of the repaired area, more repair, more rust each year I had it. Seems to be a common Ford problem due to the design of the rear fender wells, which is prime for catching and holding dirt, mud, water and salt. If possible I would recommend going with entirely new rear quarters or a wheel arch repair piece that covers a very, very large area. Prime and paint both sides and then keep your wheel well arches squeeky clean inside and out.
