86 Bronco II

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BroncoRay

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I have noticed a couple of discussions on this very topic that show no final resolution.

I recently bought this vehicle in a non-running condition - it set for 3 or 4 months without running. I quickly found that it had no spark. After extensive troubleshooting and a couple trips to the parts store - i found that the Ignition Pickup was bad. I had already replaced the Distributor control module and coil - new distributor cap, rotor, and plug wires. I traced all the wires in the control module curcuit and in the process inspected most of the wiring on the vehicle - most looks decent for an '86 - but all that I tested had good continuity.

I drove it to work on Monday of this week for its maiden voyage - I drove it to downtown KC (30 min drive). Runs great down the highway - but after getting downtown - I when to drive it up into a parking garage and it acted as if it had no power - sputtering, rough and eratic idle. I finally got it parked and it set for 3 hours and ran fine for the next 30 mins of driving. The same events were repeated twice again that day after about a 30 min drive each. The last time that it happened it finally died and would not start until it again cooled down.

I babied it to Orielly and pulled the codes with their handheld. Codes 32, 33, 34, and 25. I think that it was slightly out of time - which may cause the 25 code-Knock sensor, but 32 33, and 34 all deal with the EGR, EVP or ECA(which I am not sure what the ECA is?)

Found one forum suggesting maybe the temp sensor for the computer. I replaced this, but no change. Took of the EGR and cleaned up, but no change. Last night I noticed if it started sputtering I could disconnnect the vaccum line from the EVP to EGR and it would run a little better.

Any suggestions as to where my problem may be. Thanks,

 

firebug8109

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Maybe this will help some. Mine was doing something very similiar to yours. I had a problem with mine running fine for a while, then acting like it was going to choke to death. It would eventually quit running and would not start back up. Once it cooled off it would run fine again until it reached normal operating temp. After months of changing this and that, hundreds of dollars, and alot of beer and cussing i finally found the problem. For 15 bucks from Advance Auto Parts, i replaced the intake air temp sensor and that solved my problem. This may not be your issue, but it is sure worth a try. Let me know if this helps.......Joe

 
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BroncoRay

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Still no resolution - and still adding parts. The Vehicle runs fine down the highway - but after it warms up it will not idle - sputters and kicks raises and lowers in RPMs - every so often it will drop in rps enough that it will die completely. I have replaced the EGR and DPFE sensor, but no change. I pulled the codes again for the tenth time - KOEO codes 54, 63, and 33. KOER Codes 25 and 33. The EGR Valve has been replaced, so that one may be a residual code. I am now thinking vacuum - but see no hoses that look damaged and hear no vacuum leaks. I have ruled out the catalytic converter and I don't believe that it is fuel related.

Any suggestions.

 

BroncoJoe19

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You got different codes this time... if you get different codes each time you test it, that could be because of bad grounds, (in particular to the PCM)

OTOH... the code 54 makes sense regarding the poor idle. (ACT/IAC sensor signal is greater than the Self-Test maximum of 4.6 volts.)

Poor idle is often vac leaks, poor connections to the IAC or sticking IAC

see... http://fordfuelinjection.com/index.php?p=39

Also a new code 63 TPS circuit has intermittently failed below minimum 0.6 volts.

here is my thread of when I checked and changed my TPS, there are links within it to pictorials of how to do it.

http://broncozone.com/forums/index.php?s=&...ost&p=72071

 
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BroncoRay

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I discovered tonight that when it starts to run rough - that my fuel presure has dropped - when it gets bad enough that it wants to die - it drops below 10psi. I replaced the fuel filter just because it's cheap. When I put the filter housing back together - it would not start - it acted like it wanted to start but just would not. So I took the housing back off - and was not getting any fuel to the housing at all - after it cooled off for a while - it started up and ran perfect again for another 10 mins. Then repeat.

Can this be anything other than a fuel pump?

 

BroncoJoe19

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Great troubleshooting!

I don't know. Haynes has about 4 pages of troubleshooting for a two pump fuel system like yours.

I am guessing that it could be one of the pumps, bad grounds, bad connections to one or both of the pumps, or a faulty fuel pressure regulator.

 

BroncoJoe19

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On second thought... correcting the fuel pump issue won't correct the TPS issue. It seems that you have a few issues with this truck. That's why you probably got it for a good price. :) /emoticons/[email protected] 2x" width="20" height="20" />

 

andre

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sound like bad grown prob

check shutoff switch under dash near center ****

check power to pump use bulb as load tester and volt meter

may have power but not on a load ??

ad this prob w ford explorer

check at stater motor there a red fuse link too

 
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