79 Bronco will not start

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Doster

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Hi, I am new to this site but have observed lots of good info in the forums. I have a 79 Bronco with a 351 modified that has been sitting for a while. Last time i took it out it was running fine at first, but by the end of the day was cutting out and dieing like it was running out of gas, but it had about a 1/4 of a tank. I ended up parking it and has been sitting since. I have now decided to try to start fixing it up again. When I turn the key to start it I get nothing at all. all lights work fine, has a brand new battery, i even tried jumping it just in case, but nothing. I am not a mechanic by far but i can usually figure thigs out pretty well. Can someone please give me any information on what to do or where to start?

 

BroncoJoe19

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Hi, just start with the basics, check for fuel and spark. DO you know how? If not just ask.

You may have a clogged fuel filter, that got progressively clogged by the end of the day.

joe

 
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Hi, just start with the basics, check for fuel and spark. DO you know how? If not just ask.
You may have a clogged fuel filter, that got progressively clogged by the end of the day.

joe

Yes, I forgot to mention in the first post. I have checked all fuses, all the lights work fine, dome, turn signals, head lights etc. which makes me think that it is not an electrical problem, just nothing from the ignition. I ended up pull starting it and it fired right up and ran fine after adding some oil. I also drove it around for about 45 min to see if maybe the batery just had enough charge for all the electrical to work, but after the run time when I shut it off and tried to restart it I got nothing. Not even the clicking you get when you have a dead batery, just nothing. So what could that be?

 
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Please take a look at this thread.http://broncozone.com/forums/index.php?s=&...ost&p=19290

It has a wireing diagram for an '83 which depicts the starting circuit.

DO you have an auto trans, or manual?

The problem may be your neutral safety switch, or clutch safety switch.
It has a manual 4 speed. Is there an easy way to check and see if it is in fact the starter solinoid, because I know that I replaced a solinoid not to long ago just don't know which one it was. I was a solinoid over to the left by the battery if that helps.

 

BroncoJoe19

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It has a manual 4 speed. Is there an easy way to check and see if it is in fact the starter solinoid, because I know that I replaced a solinoid not to long ago just don't know which one it was. I was a solinoid over to the left by the battery if that helps.
That's your starter relay.

Check to see if you have 12 volts to the lilttle wire when someone turns the ignition key to the start position.

Here is some info on how to test the NSS for an automatic. The info should be informative enough that you can interpret what you need to do for a standard. If not let us know.

I just noted that you have a manual trans, so the thought behind this post is still accurate, and the testing will be the same, but the location of the neutral safety switch will be somewhere in your clutch linkage. I *think* it is inside the cab on your clutch pedal lever.

From the Haynes manual

For the C-series, and E4OD transmissions

1. raise the vehicle and support securly on jack stands

2. locate the Park/Neutral position switch on the drivers side of the trans, and disconnect the electrical connector.

3. Locate the two R/L or W/PK and R/LB colored wire pins in the connector and check for voltage at one pin while holding the key in the START position. If no voltage is indicated at either pin, repair the harness to the ignition switch START circuit and check the starter for operation.

4. IF voltage is indicated, jumper between the pins and check for voltage at the starter relay S wire while holding the key in the START position. If voltage is now indicated, replace the switch and adjust it.

Gotta run

joe

 
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That's your starter relay.Check to see if you have 12 volts to the lilttle wire when someone turns the ignition key to the start position.

Here is some info on how to test the NSS for an automatic. The info should be informative enough that you can interpret what you need to do for a standard. If not let us know.

I just noted that you have a manual trans, so the thought behind this post is still accurate, and the testing will be the same, but the location of the neutral safety switch will be somewhere in your clutch linkage. I *think* it is inside the cab on your clutch pedal lever.

From the Haynes manual

For the C-series, and E4OD transmissions

1. raise the vehicle and support securly on jack stands

2. locate the Park/Neutral position switch on the drivers side of the trans, and disconnect the electrical connector.

3. Locate the two R/L or W/PK and R/LB colored wire pins in the connector and check for voltage at one pin while holding the key in the START position. If no voltage is indicated at either pin, repair the harness to the ignition switch START circuit and check the starter for operation.

4. IF voltage is indicated, jumper between the pins and check for voltage at the starter relay S wire while holding the key in the START position. If voltage is now indicated, replace the switch and adjust it.

Gotta run

joe

Ok, so i kinda jumped the gun on this one. I failed to first check the connections to the solenoid by the battery, "I think this is the starter relay?". Anyways, the connections were really bad so I brushed them up with a wire brush, put it all back together and it started right up. I drove it around a little and shut it off and instantly fired it back up again just to test. Well when I tryed to start it a few minutes later it did the same thing when I turned the key, absolutly nothing. So I looked around for more bad connection and ended up cleaning a few more. Tried to start it and it fired right up. Well it seems that this process keeps repeating. What does this sound like, and what should I do?

 

BroncoJoe19

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Ok, so i kinda jumped the gun on this one. I failed to first check the connections to the solenoid by the battery, "I think this is the starter relay?". Anyways, the connections were really bad so I brushed them up with a wire brush, put it all back together and it started right up. I drove it around a little and shut it off and instantly fired it back up again just to test. Well when I tryed to start it a few minutes later it did the same thing when I turned the key, absolutly nothing. So I looked around for more bad connection and ended up cleaning a few more. Tried to start it and it fired right up. Well it seems that this process keeps repeating. What does this sound like, and what should I do?
Hehehehe... It sounds like you should keep cleaning connections! :) /emoticons/[email protected] 2x" width="20" height="20" />

Did you check the NSS like I suggested?

Do you have, and know how to use a voltmeter?

 
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Hehehehe... It sounds like you should keep cleaning connections! :) /emoticons/[email protected] 2x" width="20" height="20" />
Did you check the NSS like I suggested?

Do you have, and know how to use a voltmeter?
Yes I do have a voltmeter and do know how to use it. I did not check the NSS, I could not find it. I think you said that it is "Probably" inside by the fuse panel, right? Well I searched around but couldn't find anything. Would it be somewhere unernieth the dash in the mess of wires back behind the steering column and under the gauges? Or is it elsewhere. I really think that it is just a bad connection though, becase I took a drimmel tool to one of the connections and now it seems to be working pretty well.

 

BroncoJoe19

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Yes I do have a voltmeter and do know how to use it. I did not check the NSS, I could not find it. I think you said that it is "Probably" inside by the fuse panel, right? Well I searched around but couldn't find anything. Would it be somewhere unernieth the dash in the mess of wires back behind the steering column and under the gauges? Or is it elsewhere. I really think that it is just a bad connection though, becase I took a drimmel tool to one of the connections and now it seems to be working pretty well.
I'm sorry, on an automatic, the NSS would be located on the trans associated with the shift lever. On a manual, it is associated with the clutch pedal.

I looked in the Haynes manual, and it seems that the clutch pedal switch was not put into a bronco until 1985.

I hope I didn't waste too much of your time.

joe

 
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I'm sorry, on an automatic, the NSS would be located on the trans associated with the shift lever. On a manual, it is associated with the clutch pedal.I looked in the Haynes manual, and it seems that the clutch pedal switch was not put into a bronco until 1985.

I hope I didn't waste too much of your time.

joe
Oh no not a wate of time at all. I only spent about 5 min. looking for it and decided that it wasn't there. So what you are saying, though, is that there is not a NSS on my particulare year model bronco?

 
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Oh no not a wate of time at all. I only spent about 5 min. looking for it and decided that it wasn't there. So what you are saying, though, is that there is not a NSS on my particulare year model bronco?
Problem seems to be fixed. After brushing up the connection with a drimel tool seems to be working fine.

 

rracrr

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Problem seems to be fixed. After brushing up the connection with a drimel tool seems to be working fine.
Hi,

Something that's always worked for me on connections on a stud type terminal is the "shake proof"washers. Most people refer to them as "star" washers. I've used them through out my career as a mechanic. They are resistant to vibrations ,sudden jars and provide an excellent way to get all your terminals to have good current flow. Hope this helps you or someone else.

Rick

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Johnny Reb

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Hi,Something that's always worked for me on connections on a stud type terminal is the "shake proof"washers. Most people refer to them as "star" washers. I've used them through out my career as a mechanic. They are resistant to vibrations ,sudden jars and provide an excellent way to get all your terminals to have good current flow. Hope this helps you or someone else.

Rick
Doster,the solinoid is on the inner fender-on the passanger side-follow the positive terminal cable and it will lead you to the solenoid. The luck I have had out out solinoids on Ford s are-it seems if they set around very long---they go bad. Also you might want to run you a ground (from aluminium automatic transmissions) from the starter to the frame. They also have a habit of corrodueing and needs cleaned after they vehicle has set for long.

 

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