yo Jack,
311 KOER Thermactor air system inoperative (right side)
DTC 311 - Thermactor air system inoperable; The control system can divert air injection UPstream (into the heads), DOWNstream (into the catalyst), or DUMP (to the atmosphere). This is assuming the air pump is actually delivering air to the system, and that the pipes, hoses, check valves, control valves, solenoids, and vacuum lines are all working. Clogged air injection tubes are common, as is rust-through. Believe it or not, a leaky vacuum reservoir (coffee can looking thing on the passenger side fender liner) can cause codes such as this; there simply might not be a strong enough vacuum to control the valves properly.
...because of the possibility that (following is an excerpt of a condensed discussion of how a bad TAB/TAD/vac line DTC 311 ... and so-on problem could cause a rich aroma; Your smog pump... blows fresh clean air up through a hose to the diverter valve. The solenoid next to the diverter valve which has a .... pink little hose plugged into ... it, creates a vacuum (sucking) that opens up the valve, and allows the fresh air to pass through the valve and make it's way to the exhaust, where the cats burn the unburnt gas more efficiently since this all happens during "open loop mode". Open loop mode happens when you turn on your car and it revs at 1200rpms for the first 15-20 seconds. During this process, your ECU feeds more gas to the engine to warm up the car quickly before driving. (also known as choke on older cars). During this open loop procedure, the extra unburnt gasoline will usually cause your exhaust to smell very rich, and the air that this diverter valve sends to the cats, causes it to burn the extra unburnt gas more efficiently like I mentoined above...thus eliminating the rich gasoline smell that us older mustangs sometimes suffer from..."]
So O2 Sensor is reading Rich while connected & PCM is leaning engine? If the O2 is bad it is very possible that with carbon on the sensor that it is telling the PCM that your engine is running very lean hence will give the engine unwanted fuel causing that rough running problem you are having.
Source: by 006 (Speedconcepts) via miesk5
Thermactor air system inoperable. The computer determined that for some reason the fresh air injection from the Thermactor system was not present. There are several components that make up this system. The initial component is the smog pump. The first checks I would make are the hoses and plumbing from the smog pump back to the diverter valve (behind the pass. cylinder head) and then on to the crossover pipe at the back of the heads and down to the catalytic converter. The check valves that are at the center of the cross over pipe and the top of the metal tube from the cat are often the culprits as they can and do snap in half as the get old. If the plumbing looks to be in good order we can discuss the slightly more complicated aspects of the system. The diverter valve also has two vacuum lines running to it. Make certain they are in place and intact. (Computer needs to be able to control the flow of fresh air by the Thermactor system).
Source: by greystreak92 (Joe B)
DTC 311, 312, 313 & 314; "...311 and 314 indicate the Secondary Air Injection system is inoperative. DTC 312 indicates that Secondary Air is misdirected. DTC 313 indicates that Secondary Air is not being bypassed when requested. Possible causes: Visually inspect vacuum lines for disconnects in the AIR system. Visually inspect for proper vacuum line routing. Refer to VECI decal. Visually inspect Air Pump for broken or loose Air Pump Belt. Refer to Section 13A for adjustment/replacement...
" READ MUCH MORE Source: by Jim
http://www.justanswer.com/ford/0sqj6-trouble-codes-fo-1995-ford-f150.html
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O2 Testing; "...You can test them, but usually if there's more than ~30k miles on them, I wouldn't bother. I treat them just like spark plugs, as they DO wear out and stop performing like they're supposed to. In fact, the EEC is programmed to observe the HEGO signal and count crossovers to determine the relativistic age of the sensor, and to compensate for it. Usually the cost of HEGOs is more than paid for in terms of mileage and driveability increases, at least IMHO. MANY reference literatures state that you can test them with a voltmeter and a heat source such as a propane torch, or even right in the vehicle. This is bull to me; HEGOs generate voltage through a galvanic reaction, and it's nothing like a DC source such as a battery. They 'swing' high to low, and 'center' around a value to tell the EEC what the mixture is approximately. Also, HEGOs are accurate only within a very very narrow range, something on the order of 14.2:1 to 15:1 (don't have my references here in front of me, sorry). So that bench testing crap won't fly too well. The real problem is reading what the HEGO is outputting without that special circuitry. Many people make do with a resistor (or shunt of some sort) and a DVOM, but it's not accurate enough for ME to accept as reliable..."
Source: by SigEpBlue (Steve)
VECI - Vacuum Line Routing Diagram in a 93 5.8
Source: by bronco5.8 (Sam) at Ford Bronco Zone Forums
http://broncozone.com/index.php?app=core&module=attach&section=attach&attach_rel_module=post&attach_id=10584
see my Vacuum leak test Acronyms & gauge pic
http://broncozone.com/topic/23994-90-58l-getting-continuous-code-33-and-running-code-44/
