5.8 PCV will not fit

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Elmo

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Ok I know I have done it before but for the life of me I cant figure it out now. The pcv valve will not fit between the valve cover and the upper intake.Am I missing something ? It looks like there should be a 90* turn and a hose coming from under the edge of the upper intake for the pcv to plug into. Any ideas ??

 

miesk5

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yo!

That happens w/some parts;

see what my buddy sixlitre says & did

"...That's a genuine Ford PCV valve. It's stock two port top(in top of pic) makes it difficult to fit under the upper intake on an EFI 5.0 engine. Buy an aftermarket single port(lower in pic) and use the top on the Ford PCV..."

img_0724.jpg

and a pic by Steve

pcv.jpg

Also, consider this: Vacuum Supply Hose Rerouting in 85-97 Bronco, F Series & vans; Failure of the #8 piston or the #8 rod or rod bearing with 5.0L and 5.8L engines. Failure of the rear piston, rod, or rod bearing (cylinders 5 & 8). After discussing the situation with several installers, the problem has been narrowed down to the PCV system. This picks up crankcase gasses from above the #8 cylinder and dumps into the back of the intake. Miesk5 NOTE; I Don't know where Ryan got the year range and #5 cylinder info from.. most likely is a typo....read more...

Source: by Ryan M (Fireguy50) at fordfuelinjection.com

Now here is the same info but w/just the 5.0 coted and a diff year range;

Vacuum Supply Hose Rerouting in 87-93 5.0 Bronco, F Series & vans; Failure of the #8 piston or the #8 rod or rod bearing

Source: by fourstarengines.com via web.archive.org

"...Failure of the #8 piston or the #8 rod or rod bearing in Ford 5.0L, V-8 gas engines. Solution: During engine installation, reroute the PCV valve vacuum supply hose. Follow these steps: Plug the 3/8" (pipe) thread hole in the rear of the plenum where the PCV valve hose is connected. Drill and tap a 3/8" pipe thread hole in the center of the plenum and thread the PCV connector into it. Reconnect the PCV valve vacuum supply hose to the new location. Be sure the drain hole in the baffle is open. The baffle is under the PCV location in the valve cover.

Installers who have rerouted the PCV system and opened the baffle drain hole have not reported any #8 cylinder failures..."

Oil Baffle pic for 5.0

Source: by miesk5 (Al M) at SuperMotors.net

5.0pcvoil-baffle.jpg

GL!

 
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Elmo

Elmo

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Miesk5 as usual you are right on target. the pic by Steve that shows the upper intake valve cover and pcv with the hose is just what I thought should be there but was not sure if I was mistaken. Thanks I purchased a pcv that is listed for a chevy 350,it has the single outlet top and it fit snuggly into the pcv grommet now I'll see if the upper intake hits it when i try to put it back on. I guess the biggest draw back to putting it back in this way is that the pcv will not come out without pulling the upper intave,good reason to pull it and wash it out during each tune up.This time I noticed a crap load of build up on the walls inside of it took two hours to wash it out in the parts washer.

 
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Elmo

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I have a 1990 5.8 stock. just did the six liter tune up Ok now that I got it all assembled it is still hard as he77 to start. checked fuel psi 40 checked spark at all 8 plugs-good Tried to pull codes check engine light on fuel pump running continously and it would not do self test. Finally used starting spray then it ran really crappy and RICH,dont make no since that it need spray if it already has too much fuel,while waiting for it to warm up looked at timeing just for fun and noticed that it was not advancing with or without the spout, thought it may be because it was cold,Yes NO ??? Keep in mind all this time if I crack the throttle it wants to die will not rev up just pops through the intake. After letting it warm up for say 15-20 mins,while i was not touching it,it kinda stumbled,recovered and was suddenly running much better.checked the timeing now it was advancing so i set it at 12*(six liter tune)I shut it down hooked up my code reader(4" wire) and turned the key to run and now it did self test got a 47.....1.....34 I am hopeing that some one can tell me what is going on. I have done work on this truck before,A lady friend asked me to lookat/fix her truck probably a year ago running the exact same way it is now -A no start with out spray burn yo eyes out rich but let it get warm and stumble and it ready to go full power every time it is cold it has to go through this same process before it will evev have enough power to move it self. last time I put a o2 sensor in it and cleaned the throttle body and have not had any problems.Till about 3 months ago now i traded her out of it. sorry for the long drawn out post please help

 
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miesk5

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yo

The SPOUT thAng is another story; I have to go out soon, but will bbl today - I hope

DTC 47 - Measured air flow too low at base idle. Consider air filter, of course (think you changed it, right?), (check for small vacuum leaks, injector o'rings, gaskets etc.)

---

DTC 34 PFE or EVP circuit has intermittently failed above the closed limit of 0.67 volts or (KOER- above the closed limit of 0.67 volts)

was engine warmed up to norm op temp when you did the test?

DTC 34; FAILURE SYMPTOMS, Rough idle, pinging, overheating, loss of power, MIL light.

DTC 34/336 and 35/337 "...mean that the PFE voltage is too high. This could be the result of a clogged exhaust or the PFE sensor itself; The PFE hose should be examined carefully. We have seen them with pinhole leaks. This causes the exhaust pressure to bleed off giving an inaccurate reading to the PFE sensor. They can also deteriorate because of the corrosive exhaust gases they carry. This weakens the rubber and may cause porosity or cracks. A quick check is to hook a vacuum pump to one side and plug the other side to see if it can hold vacuum...."; read more on testing w/DVOM & vacuum pump

by tomco-inc.com

http://www.tomco-inc.com/Tech_Tips/ttt34.pdf

then;

DTC 33 & 34 "...DTC 33 is triggered when the EVP sensor is not closing, and a code 34 indicates no EGR flow. Any of these codes could indicate a faulty EGR valve as well..."

Source: by Larry C at http://www.aa1car.com/library/egr.htm

DTC 31, 32. 33. 34. 35. 38 or 84 - EGR Valve Position (EVP) Sensor & EGR Vacuum Regulator Solenoid (EVR) Testing

Source: by Dustin S (Dustball, Mellow Yellow, Mr. Laser Boy) at http://ylobronc.users.superford.org/documents/egr/

---------------

Is Fuel Pump still running cont?

If it stays running with the Bronco turned off, then most likely you have a bad fuel pump relay;or the EEC Relay is hanging closed;

If the EEC relay goes bad, it could be sending the signal to the fuel pump relay to turn the fuel pumps on;

One easy test for this is: Without the key in ignition, bump the starter over with the starter relay using a screwdriver. If it is the EEC relay, the truck will start without the key in the ignition

StarterRelayJumpinin92-96.JPG


Timing (I know you know this.. the info you asked is in this quote)

Adjustment in Ford EFI Engines - "All TFI systems are timed in the same manor. The engine must be brought up to operating temperature, and must be idling within spec. With the engine off the SPOUT connector must be removed. The SPOUT connector is a yellow wire near the distributor that either pulls apart with a wire connector, or has a little block that is removed (much like a spade fuse). This connector, or block stops the PCM from advancing the timing so an accurate base timing can be tested (with the SPOUT plugged in, base timing could be off as much as 10 degrees). Connect a timing light as usual, (+) and (-) leads on the battery, and the pickup connector on the #1 cylinder’s spark plug lead. Mark off 10 degrees (unless the vehicle emission label says otherwise) wherever it is located on this vehicle (often on the crank shaft pulley, or under a rubber boot at the top of the transaxle). Start the vehicle and check timing. Adjust the distributor as necessary, and reinstall the SPOUT connector..."

 
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Elmo

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Fuel pump only runs when the key is in the on position. But it runs ANY time the key is on.

 

miesk5

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ok,

I don't capice that

let's try this;

with no key in the ign switch; is the pump running?

with Key in off pos is the pump running?

 
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Elmo

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Sorry for the delay,No the fuel pump does not run unless the key is in the ignition and in the run position. When i turn the key to the run position the fuel pump should run for 3-5 seconds then shut off. But my fuel pump will run continuously.The EGR code from before i think i set it when checking to see if it was sticking cleared it and it has not come back. When the key is switched to the run position both the EEC relay and the fuel pump relay "click" and the fuel pump comes on. Adding to its problems it will not start with out a shot of starting spray. Then is runns crappy will not accel/rev up. TPS reads 0.93 closed (forgot to measure it at WOT) fuel press is good got spark.This weekend got codes 41 and 65. Also this weekend got engine started and hot removed the O2 sensor didnot run or rev any better put vac gauge on it reads i think it was like 15 (in the area that says ******** ign timing, but the timing is at 13btdc) How can I check out the ECT (coolant temp) and ACT (intake air temp) sensors

 
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Elmo

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What would cause this thing to have the check engine light on but not enter self test. Then after running for a while(15-20 mins) suddenly the check engine light goes off and then it will do the KOEO and KOER test fine.

 

miesk5

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yo

ok

Intake Air Temp (IAT); (Air Charge Temperature [ACT] prior to 1992) Overview & Testing; "...This measures the temperature of the air entering the engine. Which impacts the fuel ratio; the cooler the incoming air is the denser it is. Denser air can utilize more fuel, giving us even greater accuracy in obtaining our desired air to fuel ratio. Before you start blaming the air charge temperature sensor and replacing it make sure the rest of the coolant system is in good condition. All of the following items will affect the ACT; Coolant level, Radiator Fan, Engine Temperature, Source: by Ryan M (Fireguy50) at fordfuelinjection.com

Engine Coolant Temperature (ECT) Sensor Source: by Ryan M (Fireguy50) at fordfuelinjection.com

TPS @ Closed Throttle can be anywhere between 0.6-1.0 volts•Part Throttle is triggered @ 0.04 volts above Closed Throttle

•Full Throttle is triggered @ 2.71 volts above Closed Throttle

Testing & Operational Description & Parameters Source: by Ryan M (Fireguy50) at fordfuelinjection.com

DTC 41; "...KOEO; No HEGO sensor switching detected or disconnected. HEGO is bad, not connected, or missing. KOER; HEGO sensor indicates system lean. HEGO is going bad, missing." Source: by miesk5

& BY RYAN again

esp All of the following items will cause a HEGO code:

• Check engine oil for fuel contamination.

• Check fuel pressure.

• Check fuel systems ability to hold pressure for 60 seconds.

• Engines general condition.

• Fuel injectors (leaky, stuck, dirty).

• Secondary Air Injection (AIR) system.

• PCV / Hose stuck or blocked.

• Vacuum leaks.

• Fuel Injector O-Rings.

• CANP.

• MAP/MAF sensor.

• Ignition Coil Failure.

• Wiring harness general condition.

• Old HEGO sensors (should be replaced every 60,000 miles).

DTC 65 Check intermittent HO2S (signal or ground)

Now for da Scan Tool Won’t Initiate Self-Tests; Vehicle Battery goes Dead, Short Solenoid Body Life, 4th Gear Starts in D/High Pressure may be caused by a malfunctioning Electronic Engine Control (EEC) Relay. The EEC relay is controlled by 12 volts from the ignition switch and is responsible for supplying voltage to the computer and solenoid body. If the relay contacts stick open, the complaints are as follows: Gas engine applications won’t start, Diesel will start and run, but have 4th gear starts in D, 2nd gear in 2 and 1, and maximum line pressure. If the contacts are stuck closed, the complaints may be as follows: Both gas and diesel engine application: Scan tool won’t work, vehicle battery goes dead, short solenoid body life. Note: Watch for corroded relay terminals and connectors on 89-91 E-series vans. The relay is very close to the right side battery and prone to corrosion problems especially on diesel ambulances..." read more, Diagrams are gone

Source: by ATC-Distribution Group Inc. atcdg.com via web.archive.org

Scan Tool Won’t Initiate Self-Tests Troubleshooting in EEC-IV; SIG-RTN, Self-Test Output circuit, etc. Source: by Ryan M (Fireguy50) at fordfuelinjection.com

Suggest that you replace the EEC & FP Relay or if $ are shortnow, just replace the EEC Relay.

Someday, swap the relays to the later years' BOSCH Style.

Relay, Bosch Overview, Schematics, etc.

Source: by Craig U at http://www.classictruckshop.com/clubs/earlyburbs/projects/bosch/relay.htm

Relay Swapping to Bosch Style Relays

Source: by Steve83 (Steve, That dirty old truck) at http://www.supermotors.net/registry/media/507187

 

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