4x4 engages but then disengages

[Txbauer1994]

My 4x4 engages and then disengages wth is going on??? I tried off roading and got stuck right away, not only that but truck over heated within 5 min of being stuck

 

[miesk5]

yo Txbauer1994,

WELCOME

Do you have automatic or Maunal Locking hubs?

Is transfer case manual or Shift on the Fly?

Any nosies from hubs or transfer case?

And the Bronco is a 94, correct?

Manual Locking Hubs

Manual locking hubs are simple to diagnose. Place the transfer case (7A195) in 2-wheel drive and raise the front wheels (1007) off the ground. When in the unlocked position, the wheels should be able to turn freely. Then lock each of the front hubs and rotate the front wheels. The additional load of the drivetrain components should be felt once the hub has been engaged. In addition, the axle and front driveshaft should be moving along with the wheel. Disengage the hubs and repeat the procedure to check that the hubs have smoothly disengaged.

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Automatic Locking Hubs

Ratcheting or Buzzing Noise in Front Axle in Two-Wheel Drive, Shortly After Four-Wheel Drive Usage

Right or left side hublock.

REPLACE hublocks as necessary. REFER to Pinpoint Test A. See some of this below

Popping Sound from Front Axle When in Four-Wheel Drive

Right or left side hublock.

REPLACE hublocks as necessary and INSPECT associated camming. REPLACE camming if damaged.

Ratcheting Noise Upon Self-Engagement of Automatic Hublocks

High axle motoring torque.

Refer to Component Test in this section.

NOTE: While the vehicle is hoisted, shift into 4-wheel drive from a dead stop and not while rear wheels are rotating in order to avoid slamming the hub locks into the lock position.

Raise vehicle on a hoist so that all wheels are off the ground. Start engine (6007) with vehicle in neutral and transfer case in two-wheel drive. Front wheels should spin freely by hand. Put transfer case in 4WD and put vehicle in gear. Front and rear wheels should rotate together. Put vehicle in neutral and spin front wheels by hand in the forward direction. The front axle and front driveshaft should rotate with the wheels. The additional load of the drivetrain components should be felt once the hub has been engaged. To disengage the hubs, spin the wheels in the opposite direction until an audible click is heard. Spin wheels forward again and they should rotate freely without the axle and driveshaft rotating. Repeat the procedure, only shift into 4-wheel drive and put the vehicle in reverse. This time the hubs should release when the front wheels are spun in the forward direction.

Road Test

When checking front hubs for proper operation, road test the vehicle to make sure the hubs will remain engaged while under load. This is accomplished by engaging 4-wheel drive and taking the vehicle through several turns (both forward and backward) on dry pavement. This will put an additional load on the front wheel at the outside of the turn because it is traveling the greatest distance.

Driving through several turns while traveling in different directions will make sure that both sides of the hub teeth have been tested under load. Hubs that are not sufficiently engaged will pop out when loaded. This is due to the driveline releasing windup and is an indication of hub malfunction.

If slippage is suspected, mark the tire and axle shaft with chalk (after locking the hub) and apply a heavy torque load several times. Then inspect your original indexing marks. If they are no longer aligned, the hubs are not remaining locked when under load. They will have to be replaced.

Should hublocks become submerged in water or mud for a long period of time, water may get past the seals and into the hubs and axle. In this case, all water must be expelled from the system. The axle must be drained by loosening the axle cover and 4x4 Gear Oil F1TZ-19580-A (WSL-M2C191-A) used to refill the axle (F1TZ-19580-A has no equivalent). Disassemble the hubs using procedures in this section and repack the wheel bearings using procedures in this section and dry off the hublocks.

more in my site @ http://www.broncolinks.com/index.php?index=103

and in

Four Wheel Drive (4X4) General Information, Operation & Troubleshooting TSB 92-1-8 for Bronco, F Series & Ranger; Includes Electric Shift On The Fly (ESOF) Troubleshooting & Hub Operation

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Overheating

Loss of Coolant

Damaged radiator.

Damaged water pump.

Loose/damaged radiator hoses.

Loose/damaged heater water hoses.

Damaged heater core.

Damaged engine gaskets.

Damaged radiator coolant recovery reservoir.

Internal engine coolant leak.

Engine Overheats

Damaged water thermostat.

Damaged water pump.

Cooling fan inoperative.

Plugged radiator.

B1 CHECK COOLANT LEVEL

NOTE: If engine is hot, allow engine to cool down before proceeding.

Remove radiator cap and check coolant level at radiator coolant recovery reservoir.

Is coolant level OK?

Yes GO to B2.

No REFILL as outlined. REFER to Cooling System, Draining, Filling and Bleeding in the Cleaning and Inspection portion of this section. GO to Pinpoint Test A.

B2 CHECK COOLANT CONDITION

Check coolant for contaminants such as rust or corrosion. Also, check for color discoloration.

Is coolant condition OK?

Yes GO to B3.

No FLUSH system. REFER to Cooling System Flush Procedure in the Cleaning and Inspection portion of this section. RETEST system.

Visually inspect A/C condenser core and radiator for obstructions, such as leaves or bugs.

CHECK WATER THERMOSTAT OPERATION

Allow engine to run for 10 minutes.

Feel the inlet and outlet heater water hose and the underside of the upper radiator hose

Are the upper radiator hose and heater water hoses cold?

Yes REPLACE water thermostat. REFER to Thermostat, Water in the Removal and Installation portion of this section. RETEST system

No LEAVE engine RUNNING. GO to B5

B5 CHECK COOLING FAN

Check for proper cooling fan clutch operation. Perform Fan Clutch Test. Refer to Component Tests in this section.

Did cooling fan clutch operate OK?

Yes CHECK the following:

Rust or scale in radiator

Water pump shaft and impeller

Collapsed lower hose

No REPLACE fan clutch. REFER to Cooling Fan Blade and Fan Clutch in the Removal and Installation portion of this section. RETEST system.

 

[Txbauer1994]

Thank u i will try some of these things and see what works!!