****** 351 Windsor 4V ready to go into 1984 Bronco XLT. To Emission or

[MaineBroncoBeast]

I haven't modified the valve cover... I got odds and ends done today so just have the pass. fender, hood, and front assembly of grill, light assemblies, and bottom soffit to install and the starter. Battery is charging now. I have errands to do tomorrow so I will get ready to start it on Tuesday.

I did the same as you... 4 years ago I went all around the bronco and patched, fiber glassed, and bondo just to get inspected. I did a spray can paint job too. I recently painted the Bronco Camo. It looks great with flat black highlights. I had thought about the adhesive you mentioned. Where did you get it? I've got a 1979 Mazda RX-7 with a 40k mileage rotary engine to put in. The motor froze up in 1998 and I've been wanting to resurrect it. I buy tools every time I have a reason, lol. Now I have all the tools and more experience to do a good job on it.

I started this spring building an off-grid home on the small mountain on my land. The site sits on the top edge 400' above and facing the Penobscot bay 1/2 mile away. The site drops 150' into a valley of oak trees so I have a 180 deg panoramic view. There are huge granite boulders and blocks everywhere and the road in is pretty good. The bronco is perfect because of the short wheel base and high clearance (20" from bottom of frame to ground). I got the site cleared and road in done and started building forms for 2'x2'x4' piers when I started having problems with the flexplate in mid July. I fixed that then the engine went so my summer turned into a bronco rebuild.

John Lennon said life is what happens when your busy making other plans... it's all good. I'll get the first floor deck built and frame this winter. I built a 4 bedroom home in 2003 (completely on my own except septic and well) and I had the slab poured late October and I framed all through the winter.

 

[Seabronc]

I used Fusor 108 and 112 which you can get from an auto body supply or on line.  http://www.lord.com/products-and-solutions/brands/fusor---aftermarket-repair-adhesives

The difference between them is in working time.

Sounds like a beautiful location, my sister has a place on Goldsboro Bay.  They are Summer people, live there from the end of mud season til it gets cold in November and then head south to Albany, NY for the Winter.  Sounds like people in a  Tim Samples routine  

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[MaineBroncoBeast]

I'll be ready to start the engine tomorrow. I started putting coolant in the radiator and it drained out of the bottom of water pump. I was leaking out the gasket. I'll have to fix it in the morning. I have a new felpro gasket to put on it. The one I put on was from the engine finishing gasket kit. It may have shifted. Should I use RTV on it?

I noticed that there is a filter on each of the 3 port vacuum switches. One of them was missing the screen filter and the other was packed with dirt which I cleaned out. It doesn't pass much air though. I guess those two ports breath in air?

Are they needed? I would think if they're on the schematic that I need them both. I can cut something to fit for the missing filter. Do you know how restrictive the air flow should be?

I put the hot air tube on between the cat and the Air bpv valve. The 3/4" tube slides right over the cat tube and secures with a 3/4" U-bolt. On the Air bpv side, I used a 1/2" copper male bushing with 2" of 1/2" copper pipe sweated into it. On the hot air tube end attaching to the Air bpv, I sweated a 3/4" to 1/2" copper reducer. I then cut a 1' section of heater hose and slide each end over the 1/2" copper tubing and secured with hose-clamps. I hope that works, it should be okay. My only concern is the temperature but since the gases are passed through hose at the air bpv, they are probably cool enough before they exit the hot air tube into the hose. The cat outlet is very small then expands to fit the 3/4" pipe so there is a lot of cooling surface before it reaches the hose.

 

[Seabronc]

You really should have those filters.  They are there to make sure vacuum is removed from the controlled line based on engine temperature.  That is why they have different colors.  If there is a local friendly auto recycler with 80-86 FSB's you should be able to find a couple.  I don't know where you can buy them any more.

Heater hose should do fine.  Attached are a few pictures, to compare to.  The last one shows a picture of how the line for the air cleaner diverter valve is connected with the other little devices on the air cleaner.

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[MaineBroncoBeast]

Hi SeaBronc.

Okay... everything is all together this morning and I got the distributor set in proper position and harmonic balancer at 10BTC for cylinder1 compression stroke. I followed a nice step by step from this site.

My next step is adjusting the timing with the timing light.

I use a starter switch at the front of the truck across the solenoid, with the key in start position. The engine cranks well, is getting gas, but no spark on spark plug tester. I have 12v at the + coil contact. When I crank the engine the + coil terminal strobes 12v on my test light. I took the coil wire off the coil and inserted the test light probe into the coil but no voltage is being sent from the coil to the distributor. I assume it should strobe 12v. I have another coil but it does the same. I'll check resistance tomorrow.

I stopped for the evening. I'll have to check the coil wiring harness to the distributor and ignition module for continuity. I have 2 spare ignition modules. Probably a loose or broken wire or contact.

Am I missing anything?

 

[Seabronc]

I don't think so, but these may help you troubleshoot the problem.

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[MaineBroncoBeast]

Well I'm pretty sure I've got it figured out. It's raining here today and I'm letting the battery charge and gas vapors to dissipate from the cranking done during testing. I just found the problem after doing a successful spark test from the coil to distributor plug. I took an old spark plug and snapped off the side terminal. I aligned the magnet to the stator and held the plug to the engine block and hit the distributor housing with a screwdriver handle which causes the stator to make contact (create the magnetic field and induce high voltage) and create the spark. Once I saw that, I knew what the problem was....

My new distributor came with two caps and two rotors. I'm using the larger cap which is a purplish color. One of the rotors is also purplish so I paired them together. So I got out the other cap and rotor and I fitted the rotor into the cap to see if it aligned with the terminals but the rotor wouldn't fit into it. It was too big. I had the smaller width and shorter height rotor in the cap! No wonder there was no spark, there was no magnetic field inductance because there was no alignment of the contacts with the rotor.

So, I'm going to wait a few hours and give it an official start. I'm getting excited. I love a little challenge.

 

[MaineBroncoBeast]

Good news and bad news......

Good news - engine runs great, no leaks, timed nice, idles low and quiet as a mouse.

Bad news - flex plate broke again same as 2 months ago, sheered all round the center 6 bolts leaving the rest attached to torque converter.

The bell housing has been broken since I've owned the truck. A piece on the driver side with the 2 bolts with the guide pin hole. It had been left bolted on. I wonder if the bell housing was off centered being tighten only on one side and this created enough of an oscillation to shear the flexplate all the way around.

Also, I had to put in a bit of tranny fluid after I put it in gear and tried to go up the hill.

I'm looking for another tranny now.

Update: Just bought a used C6 AT for same year and engine as mine with a 90 day warranty and free shipping on ebay for $450.

Time to move into my insulated and radiant heated 2 car garage for this next hurdle.

 

[Seabronc]

Great, glad it is running.

Start a new thread with the new problem.

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[MaineBroncoBeast]

No need... thanx for the tips.

The used transmission I bought came with a few surprises. The pan was dented in many places up to the filter, the exterior shift lever was badly bent in 2 directions, and it wasn't shifting through the gears properly. I contacted the seller and he was very sorry and willing to pay for a tranny shop to fix it.

I said I'd fix it. I removed the pan and took down the pump plate and inspected the internal shifting lever and parts. The rooster (cam for gears) was also badly bent in 2 directions as was the internal kickdown lever. The rest of the internals were clean as a whistle, no metal shavings or anything. I took the pan and shifting parts off my old trans and repaired the new one and filled it with fluid. I tested the trans but it acted like it only wanted to go in reverse. I had moved the manual valve when I repaired the shift parts and did not know to make sure it lined up on the shift lever point when putting it back together. So I drained it and fixed it and the transmission worked great !

But that's not the best part... After I fixed the transmission I called the ebay seller to settle up. I was very nice and patient over the entire time and I didn't make any claim against the seller on ebay who has a 100% positive feedback on 90 transactions. As a result, I asked for $300 back on the transaction to cover the parts and my labor. They immediately sent me $300 on paypal.

I paid $174 for the transmission because I remained calm and figured it out and did the work myself while knowing I would be fairly compensated. Make lemonade out of lemons, catch more bees with honey.

I'm driving my new 1984 Bronco XLT on the road for the first time to vote today. It sounds and runs amazing and the ride is great with all new radiator and body mounts.

 

[ktrepairs]

Man o man ------- after reading all that it took you to get the 84 perking ,I do believe i will sell my 85

instead of getting it running .

 

[mikefamig]

I've spent the last 2 months completely rebuilding my 84' XLT in my redneck garage (next to my house in the shade ALL day). The old engine was weary and engine compartment oily and grimy. It has new cab mounts, all new body mounts with frame savers, floor pans, rocker panel, and a rear cross sill. New fenders et. al. I used purple clean to completely clean the frame and engine bay and now its brand new ford blue paint. I went paint crazy... orange, black, yellow, ford blue, and navy blue. It's been a fun summer.

Gentlemen, I have a zero mile re-manufactured 351 Windsor 4V with the stock 4bbl motorcraft holley 4180C. The question is... should I keep the emissions or remove it?

I want this truck to hum. It has all new parts on the engine except if I keep emissions, I'll need a smog pump, both cat's and an air supply tube which I can buy today for $366 total.. Hint... don't be a retired engineer at 60 like me. All the other emission components are cleaned and ready to reinstall. I've been an avid reader of BroncoZone for years as my go to knowledge base. Emissions has been a topic with mixed advice. But there are experts that can reveal the truth... please, wise masters of the bronco?

If I just say no to emissions, what goes, what stays, what gets plugged. Thank you.

I have not read through this entire thread yet but I need to know where you can buy a smog pump, both cat's and an air supply tube for $366! Or where you can buy the Y-pipe with cats at all for that matter, I've had trouble finding them online.

Mike.

 

[chrlsful]

"...shroud that mounts on the passenger side manifold..."
unobtainium
(Boy ur a fast worker)

I've gone thru 20 posts'n its moved away from OP's Q (a good thing) but...

I'd also go w/more oem set up. The motor was setup by engineers of the time to run well and it did. I C too many youngins sweep a hand thru the engine bay rippin out stuff sayin "I dont want no pollution crap" then wonder Y it runs so poorly.
U sound (read) like some 1 who'd do well w/the ford shop manuals (made 4 dealer mechanics) and they are available on line (expensive compared to chiltons/hanyes). I find them for my 10yrs older bronk on fleebay @ 1/4 price. Now onto page 2 "351W 4v..."

 

[goodO1boydws]

I've spent the last 2 months completely rebuilding my 84' XLT in my redneck garage (next to my house in the shade ALL day). The old engine was weary and engine compartment oily and grimy. It has new cab mounts, all new body mounts with frame savers, floor pans, rocker panel, and a rear cross sill. New fenders et. al. I used purple clean to completely clean the frame and engine bay and now its brand new ford blue paint. I went paint crazy... orange, black, yellow, ford blue, and navy blue. It's been a fun summer.

Gentlemen, I have a zero mile re-manufactured 351 Windsor 4V with the stock 4bbl motorcraft holley 4180C. The question is... should I keep the emissions or remove it?

I want this truck to hum. It has all new parts on the engine except if I keep emissions, I'll need a smog pump, both cat's and an air supply tube which I can buy today for $366 total.. Hint... don't be a retired engineer at 60 like me. All the other emission components are cleaned and ready to reinstall. I've been an avid reader of BroncoZone for years as my go to knowledge base. Emissions has been a topic with mixed advice. But there are experts that can reveal the truth... please, wise masters of the bronco?

If I just say no to emissions, what goes, what stays, what gets plugged. Thank you.

Hey Mike,

I just caught your thread.
That's certainly a unique color scheme.
I figure with all the work that you put into the Bronc in 2016 that you might still have it.
How are the colors holding up?