3" Body Lift

[firelt90bronco]

I'm looking at a 3" Trailmaster Body Lift for my truck, I can't do a suspension lift because I need to keep the frame down low for the plow. What do I have to do to make this work? I know I need to cut the fan shroud, add an extention to the steering shaft and relocate the bumpers. Do I have to extend the shift linkage for an automatic? Will I need longer brake lines? Should I replace the cab mounts while I'm down there?

 

[Yardape]

The body lift is very straight forward, the hardest part is removing the old hardware. It gets very corroded under there as I'm sure you probably know. Brake lines are fine, leave them connected when you jack up the body, the coiled up brake lines under the master cylinder will stretch to where they need to be, just keep an eye on it while lifting. The steering shaft doesn't HAVE to be lengthened, will extend far enough. Shifter linkage will work but just, might not be able to line up the gear selector on your steering column (the do-hicky that tells you what gear your in) but thats the worst of it. I would however be concerned with the transfer case shifter becuase it will hit your floor, I blame that as the cause behing my transfer case failure. Cab mounts are designed to last pretty much forever, if they look good leave them, obviously if they look fatigued, replace them. Or just say the **** with it and put in shiny polyurathane mounts anyway. But thats your call, they should be fine though

 

[gearjammer88]

There is one ground wire that bolts to the bottom bolt on your wiper motor mount...on the firewall....this will need to come off . Be aware of the body mount bolt under the battery....this is the worst for corrosion....otherwise there are two access plugs under the carpet in the far back, two in the middle of the floor behind your back seat, two in the floor behind the front seats, and two in the floor right where it starts to angle up in the front passenger compt. the other two are all the way in the front on either side of the radiator. I took a cut off wheel and trimmed the radiator shroud. it worked out well. Factory bolts can be a real pain.....use lots of penetrant...especially up there in the salt..... /emoticons/[email protected] 2x" width="20" height="20" />

Oh yeah....If you take the rear bumper mount brackets and flip them from side to side.(left to right, and visa versa) the bumper will tuck up where it belongs, and the front bumper just needs to be notched on the bottom where the frame rails are....this will snug it right up (one case on mine where a sawzall worked great /emoticons/[email protected] 2x" width="20" height="20" /> )

 

[firelt90bronco]

I have the push button 4x4 so I'm in the clear. If I extend the shift linkage would it line up any better.

...and the front bumper just needs to be notched on the bottom where the frame rails are....this will snug it right up (one case on mine where a sawzall worked great /emoticons/[email protected] 2x" width="20" height="20" /> )

I don't need to worry about that thanks to the 1992 Lexus LS400. ) )

 

[gnarly_bronco_kid]

Hey I'm also putting a 3" body lift on my bronco. and yeah the old hardwear is not easy to remove. I have a 96 and on the majority of the bults I have to go rip up the carpet to get the other side. I think it's worth it though. good luck, I know I need it

 

[1978 & 89 bronco muddin man]

i did my 89 and the only think i did to the shift linkage was loosen it up where it would slide then i put the 3'' body lift in then thightened the shift lingage back up it works fine. the only problem i had was the floor shifter but i notched the floor a little and that works fine now. hope that helps you out.