Bronco Commander,no flashed on test light and couldn't find a brake in tan wires and no wires are touching,is there anything in the steering column that could keep my truck from starting? I know when the ignition is on by the test light because when I turn the key on the wire going to the coil lights up,the distributor rotor is turning,the distributor is an old distributor that I had replaced the pickup in before I changed distributors,the coil is new,the control module is new. These are spare parts that I've had since I bought the truck. The only thing that confuses me is when I use to turn the ignition on is that the engine light would come on before starting and now it doesn't.But, I don't know if that has got anything to do with this problem.So, what's the next test?
1992 ford bronco ignition problems
- Thread starter rogmit
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Rons beast
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If the test with the probe and aligator clip on the ign coil, show no flashing light when the engine is cranked, then the coil is NOT getting a fire signal.
By "engine light" do you mean the "check engine" light?
Check all your fuses...if there is not a cel light on , the fuse to the EEC may be blown.
What year are you working on again?
By "engine light" do you mean the "check engine" light?
Check all your fuses...if there is not a cel light on , the fuse to the EEC may be blown.
What year are you working on again?
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Bronco Commander: Yes, I was talking about the check engine light. The fuse for The EEC,is it where the regular fuse panel is on the inside of the vehicle or the exterior because I know in the past, there was a 20 amp fuse in the engine compartment that would blow sometimes and if I change it, the truck would start but in this case that fuse is okay this time. I wish it could be that simple. But, It I can't figure it out by this weekend I'm going to have to probably take somewhere and get reamed because I'm starting a new job and I need my truck.It is a 92 bronco 351.
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Rons beast
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OK kinda finding some common ground here.
The coil fires "fires" when the ground to the primary side is removed.
The ECU lights the CEL by ground.
If the ECU does not have a good ground supplied, it may not be able to provide ground to the coil, or ground for the CEL.
Check the grounds under the dash.
I think Seabronc, or M5 have the info on where all the grounding points are.
When you turn the key to the run position, the CEL should come on to indicate that the ECU passed the self test mode. If the cel does not come on the ECU failed the self test....BUT before you condem the ECU check the grounds, and be sure the bulb is not burned out.
Only other thoughts are wiring is broken somewhere, or your distributor innerds are not sending the "fire" signal.
The coil fires "fires" when the ground to the primary side is removed.
The ECU lights the CEL by ground.
If the ECU does not have a good ground supplied, it may not be able to provide ground to the coil, or ground for the CEL.
Check the grounds under the dash.
I think Seabronc, or M5 have the info on where all the grounding points are.
When you turn the key to the run position, the CEL should come on to indicate that the ECU passed the self test mode. If the cel does not come on the ECU failed the self test....BUT before you condem the ECU check the grounds, and be sure the bulb is not burned out.
Only other thoughts are wiring is broken somewhere, or your distributor innerds are not sending the "fire" signal.
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Well,after all the diagnostics and all the help I got that I deeply appreciate.The problem came down to computer.It was fried.So,I got one from the pick n pull salvage yard for $30.00 and it's running again.I think I still have the timing off a bit and the rpm keeps going up and down when in gear.So, a friend suggested it was the timing possibly because I think I would have a check engine light on if it was TPS.Is that true?
Rons beast
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Hey Rog,
Glad you got the Bronc running again.. regarding the TPS, and CEL...the quick answer is "maybe". You may have a code that isn't a "hard" code and the CEL will not be on. It will only come on after the comp. determines that the problem continues, and there is no protocol to correct the issue. The code is retained as a "pending code" but the Cel is not on. After so many key cycles the code is erased if the condition does not continue.
It's wise to do the basics, and check the timing first. The new, (to your truck) comp can need time to "learn" the driving perimeters as well. All should turn out good. Your on the right road now.
Good Luck
Glad you got the Bronc running again.. regarding the TPS, and CEL...the quick answer is "maybe". You may have a code that isn't a "hard" code and the CEL will not be on. It will only come on after the comp. determines that the problem continues, and there is no protocol to correct the issue. The code is retained as a "pending code" but the Cel is not on. After so many key cycles the code is erased if the condition does not continue.
It's wise to do the basics, and check the timing first. The new, (to your truck) comp can need time to "learn" the driving perimeters as well. All should turn out good. Your on the right road now.
Good Luck
yo R,
Don’t worry if the Check Engine Light is not on, the computer will store lesser important codes without flashing lights in your face. First you need to find the self-test plugs to read codes from the EEC.
If you are a lost soul that does not have a working engine light, or did not install a light into your dash don�t fret. You can still get the codes. You still need that wire to ground out the STI. Now you will need one of the following tools; digital volt meter, analog volt meter, test light, or you can hook up any other 12 volt light that does not draw more than 0.5 watts max.
1. Turn key to OFF.
2. Get a length of wire that can connect the STI to the negative battery terminal or body ground.
3. Ground the Self-Test Input.
4. Attach one side of the test device to the Self-Test Output (STO).
5. Attach the other lead to the positive side of the battery.
a) If you are using a digital voltmeter you�ll want to use the continuity setting.
B) If you are using an analog voltmeter you�ll be counting the meter make sweeps.
c) If you are using a cheep light you'll count like the rest of us.
6. Get some paper and a pen.
7. Get comfortable in the drivers seat.
8. Try to keep your self from getting distracted from here on.
9. Turn key to RUN.
10. You will hear some relays engage and the fuel pumps prime the system. This is the EEC beginning the test.
11. When the fuel pumps stop be ready to count!
by Ryan M
Check Engine Light (CEL) Overview in 92-96; The check engine light (CEL) comes on when the electronic engine control system is not working properly. The CEL comes on briefly when the ignition switch lock cylinder is turned to ON, and should turn off when the engine starts. If the check engine warning indicator does not come on when the ignition switch lock cylinder is turned to ON or if it comes on while the vehicle is moving, the system is malfunctioning.
If the CEL BULB is missing, damaged or burned out or wiring is damaged, connect CEL © to a 12V test light, and the light's other terminal to a 12V source on the same vehicle.
TRY SELF TEST FOR CODES AS SHOWN BY MY PAL BRONCOJOE
Post Codes found here.
http://broncozone.com/topic/14269-code-reader/
TIMING Adjustment in Ford EFI Engines; MIESK5 NOTE; Spark timing that is ******** from specification may increase exhaust gas temperature and shorten catalyst life. Refer to the following procedure for service details. a. Check spark timing. Check base timing with spout disconnected. Set base timing to the specification on the vehicle emission decal. b. Check computed timing with spout connected. Source: by Ryan M
http://oldfuelinjection.com/?p=71
Don’t worry if the Check Engine Light is not on, the computer will store lesser important codes without flashing lights in your face. First you need to find the self-test plugs to read codes from the EEC.
If you are a lost soul that does not have a working engine light, or did not install a light into your dash don�t fret. You can still get the codes. You still need that wire to ground out the STI. Now you will need one of the following tools; digital volt meter, analog volt meter, test light, or you can hook up any other 12 volt light that does not draw more than 0.5 watts max.
1. Turn key to OFF.
2. Get a length of wire that can connect the STI to the negative battery terminal or body ground.
3. Ground the Self-Test Input.
4. Attach one side of the test device to the Self-Test Output (STO).
5. Attach the other lead to the positive side of the battery.
a) If you are using a digital voltmeter you�ll want to use the continuity setting.
B) If you are using an analog voltmeter you�ll be counting the meter make sweeps.
c) If you are using a cheep light you'll count like the rest of us.
6. Get some paper and a pen.
7. Get comfortable in the drivers seat.
8. Try to keep your self from getting distracted from here on.
9. Turn key to RUN.
10. You will hear some relays engage and the fuel pumps prime the system. This is the EEC beginning the test.
11. When the fuel pumps stop be ready to count!
by Ryan M
Check Engine Light (CEL) Overview in 92-96; The check engine light (CEL) comes on when the electronic engine control system is not working properly. The CEL comes on briefly when the ignition switch lock cylinder is turned to ON, and should turn off when the engine starts. If the check engine warning indicator does not come on when the ignition switch lock cylinder is turned to ON or if it comes on while the vehicle is moving, the system is malfunctioning.
If the CEL BULB is missing, damaged or burned out or wiring is damaged, connect CEL © to a 12V test light, and the light's other terminal to a 12V source on the same vehicle.
TRY SELF TEST FOR CODES AS SHOWN BY MY PAL BRONCOJOE
Post Codes found here.
http://broncozone.com/topic/14269-code-reader/
TIMING Adjustment in Ford EFI Engines; MIESK5 NOTE; Spark timing that is ******** from specification may increase exhaust gas temperature and shorten catalyst life. Refer to the following procedure for service details. a. Check spark timing. Check base timing with spout disconnected. Set base timing to the specification on the vehicle emission decal. b. Check computed timing with spout connected. Source: by Ryan M
http://oldfuelinjection.com/?p=71
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