1992 bronco E4OD problem

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DennisNorwood

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Okay, I am having a problem with the E4OD in my 1992 bronco with a 302 and cruise. I was playing in the mud one night and went through what might as well ben a deep creek, and when i went to drive it home i did not have 3rd or 4th (drive and overdrive). i replaced the transmission and still no D or OD. replaced the PCM, still no D or OD. replaced the shifter tube and cable, still no D or OD. replaced the VSS, still no D or OD. and the MLPS, still no D or OD. I pulled codes and got code 116, 636, and 654. I checked the alignment on the MLPS and it was good. I am stumped. Thanks in advance!!

 

miesk5

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yo!

ok, lets look at each DTC first;

DTC 116; was engine @ normal operting temp prior to the KOER portion of the Self-Test?

Do KOEO first.. then KOER..with all accessories and light Off.

Differences in test mode noted as:

(O) =Key On Engine Off test

® =Key On Engine Running test

(M) =Memory code

DTC 116 to 118 (O,R) ECT Troubleshooting & Possible Causes; "...The ECT sensor is a thermistor, basically a resistor that changes voltage accordingly to temperature changes. It provides a reading that\'s used by the EEC to change fuel delivery at engine startup to reduce emissions and monitors the temperature of the engine. If you see some rust in it clean it by sanding the surface using a fine grit sandpaper, Also check the connector and wiring..." 0.3 to 3.7 volts.

ECT "This measures the temperature of engine, and has a great impact on fuel ratio. This makes simple work of enriching the mixture on start up, overheating, and full throttle fun. It also allows us to lean out the mixture at certain times, to shorten the time it takes to warm up the engine helping us get great fuel economy. The Engine Coolant Temperature (ECT) sensor is a thermal transistor, which means it allows less electricity to pass through the sensor the warmer it gets. The ECT receives the “Signal Return” voltage from the EEC, then allows a certain amount to return back to the EEC. Because the ECT is in direct contact with the engine coolant flow it changes resistance in response to the temperature of that coolant. The ECT is third in command in the hierarchy of EFI sensors, this means this sensor is very important when calculating fuel ratios and timing curves. This is because of simply chemistry; fuel and spark are constants in the equation. Air is the biggest variable in combustion; it changes density greatly over a range of temperature. So keeping track of the changing temperatures of the incoming air and the engine in which it is burnt becomes very important. But due to its simplicity of design, the ECT is rarely at fault when problems occur. The engine temperature must be greater than 50°F (10°C) to pass the KOEO Self-Test and greater than 180°F (82°C) to pass the KOER Self-Test. To accomplish this, the engine should be at normal operating temperature...Before you start blaming the engine coolant temperature sensor and replacing it make sure the rest of the coolant system is in good condition. All of the following items will affect the ECT: *Coolant level *Radiator Fan *Water Pump *Water Pump and Fan Belts *Thermostat *Base Timing *Engines general condition *Harness and wire general condition..." Source: by Ryan M

Location pics in a 90 351W Source: by BlueBeast (The Beast, JP N) at SuperMotors.net behind/& passenger side of the distributor

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636 Transmission Fluid Temp (TFT) higher or lower than expected - as my pal SigEp wrote elsewhere; "The DTC 636 is the only one I'd be worried about at this point. You probably smoked the torque converter clutch running..."

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654 (O) Transmission selector not in PARK - 654 Manual Lever Position (MLP) sensor indicating not in PARK during Self-Test

Adjustment Info; "...back-probe the MLP line with a volt meter while in Park, and set it to between 4.277 and 4.736 volts (ideally at 4.5065V, right in the middle of the two limits). As a "double-check" afterward, pull the lever down to 1st gear, and again test the MLP voltage; it should be between 0.293 and 1.167 volts, ideally in the middle at 0.73V..." Source: by SigEpBlue (Steve)

Test, Pin-Point in 92-96; from Ford EVTM; Used to see Connector; some is jibberish due to copy & paste problems Source: by guardcows.com

--

The Pin-Point tests for all are detailed; I suggest you buy a Ford Bronco Electrical and Vacuum Troubleshooting Manual (EVTM), Powertrain Controls and Emission Diagnosis Manual (PCED), Service Manual CD from Steve83 or E Bay; BEST UNDER $15.00 thAng youll ever buy to repair the Bronco!

Here is Steve's Sale listing incl the CD;

http://broncozone.com/topic/17779-for-sale-too-much-to-list-in-the-title-but-mostly-80-96/

The CD; http://www.supermotors.net/registry/media/748589

He also includes a How_to-Use the CD!

GL!

 
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DennisNorwood

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thanks for the help. no the truck was cold. i will go drive it and pull codes again.

 
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DennisNorwood

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okay i pulled codes after it was warm and i got these KOEO codes, 654, 328, 634 it will not let me pull KOER codes. i re checked the mlps alignment and it is spot on.

 

miesk5

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ok, good that you got the KOER test done!

Differences in test mode noted as:

(O) =Key On Engine Off test

® =Key On Engine Running test

(M) =Memory code

328 (O,R,M) EGR Valve Position (EVP) is/was low - Can be caused by a closed EGR valve

Testing; "...There shouldn't be any vacuum at the EGR valve at idle or any time your ass is under the hood fiddling with it, to put it plainly, except for perhaps a very light residual vacuum from the EVR. Check ALL of your vacuum lines FIRST, and the vacuum reservoir for leaks..."

Source: by SigEpBlue

Refuses to open (or the EGR passageway in the manifold is clogged) will allow elevated NOX emissions & may also cause a detonation problem Source: by Larry C at aa1car.com

EGR Valve Position (EVP)Operation & Testing Source: by Ryan M (Fireguy50) at fordfuelinjection.com

Testing; "...Using the Haynes manual's procedures, you should be able to back-probe the EVP line and ascertain whether the EVP voltage is correct. It should be below 0.67V @ zero vacuum on the EGR, slowly increasing with applied vacuum from a hand pump. DO NOT apply more than 10 in-Hg to the valve..."

Source: by SigEpBlue

That should all you need for the tests

here is related info...

EGR Vacuum Regulator (EVR) Operation TEsting; Ford EGR valves will open 50% at 4 inHg of vacuum, and 100% at 8 inHg of vacuum. Source: by Ryan M (Fireguy50) at fordfuelinjection.com EVR Location pic in a 93 Source: by Steve83

Test, Vacuum, Video in a 96 Source: by Tony K (Boat Dude, Big Blue) at SuperMotors.net---------

DTC 634; "E4OD Nagging Neutral Nonsense & Pinpoint Test, Manual Manual Lever Position (MLPS) also called Transmission Range (TR) Sensor. Some of the problems the MLPS can cause are wrong gear starts, TCC hunting, no 4th gear, engine stalling, high or erratic line pressure & a sudden neutral condition..." Source: by Pete L at transonline.com

Pete advises; "You replace the MLPS on every job you do, so why should you check the resistance on a new part? Well, that’s fine, but one thing has become very clear lately: NEW DOES NOT MEAN GOOD!..."

I know this for a fact Dennis, especially if it is not a Ford Motorcraft MLPS... And I understand that you cked the alignment of the new MLPS, but I think you should check it electrically. If it still comes up, then you'll need to check the entire circuit.

I have more tests in my site under Electiral, Sensors, MLPS, but Pete's tests have worked for others in da past.

...

Next is much less likely, my guess based on the codes...

DTC 634; "...Hard 1-2 shift after she warms up...1-2 accumulator problem. Also the line modulator valve can cause intermittent harsh shifts, but generally it would happen on more than one gear change..." Source: by Baumann Electronic Controls, LLC becontrols.com

634 Gear Selector Sensor Faulty The signal from the Gear Selector switch is too high, too low, or at a value between any 2 normal modes

654 should be cleared once 634 is solved...

GL!

 
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