yo Rick,
Let's ID what you have in there first;
ZF S5-42 Shift pattern & shifter parts BO diagrams
by ZF via Steve83
M5OD Depiction & Overview Source: by Mike W via rsgear.com
Next is an E4OD to M5OD Swap & Parts List in a 93
Source: by Havack (Ben P) at broncodata.com via web.archive.org
Parts List
The M5OD is a simple swap for the E4OD that is behind a 5.8, 5.0 or 4.9. The hardest part is finding the tranny and the flywheel. I will attempt to give you a guide for the ‘92-‘96 year group. Some things are not explained. If I missed something I probably meant to. If you need to ask you might not need to try this. I am not saying do not ask questions, I am just saying if you do not know what something like a pressure plate is then you are out of your knowledge bank for doing this.
When doing this swap you will need to find the following:
Tranny, Good or bad. Bad can be used for a core on the good one. Keep in mind the core charge is usually $250, and shipping is $75 so do not spend much here. Oh! Even if your E4OD is bad, you can get about $125 for it at a tranny rebuild shop. Might help with the core charge if you need to pay it.
Flywheel, teeth condition is not a must. They are replaceable for about $20. Their condition must figure in the price. The flywheel must, unless you are willing to buy a new starter, match the year group of your truck. As I found out an ‘89 flywheel will work in a ‘93 truck, but you must convert to an ‘89 starter, and starter wiring.
Clutch disk and pressure plate. Try and get the bone yard to give you these. Together they are worth about $30 as a core, more if they are good. You must be the judge, are you going to use them or turn them in? Hopefully you can get the pressure plate bolts but if not they are a 3/8”/1.25 inch long 16 thread bolt. Pilots bearing and throw out bearing fall in here.
Clutch master and ***** cylinders. Again this is a matched set. Year groups must be the same. A ‘94 master will not work with an ‘89 *****. The ‘94 setup uses a low volume and the ‘89 uses a high volume. Unless you are luck to get it complete you will need to buy a hose for the set at Ford. You have no way around this unless you get lucky. The hose is about $60 and must match the master and ***** combo. You might need a heat gun to reshape it to your application. You can use a cable set-up but as I didn’t you are on your own for this.
* Wiring harness for the M5OD. You will only need two wires here. If you have the connector for the reverse switch you can wire it into the E4OD harness but some bone yards are nice and unplug this instead of cutting. Makes for a cleaner install. MIESK5 NOTE; Ben is referring to MPLS
* Cross member. Here is another Ford item. Bone yards cut them to get the tranny out. If you get to pull the tranny you can get the cross member. You will need the cross member supports that can be found in the bone yard. Your E4OD cross member can be used but you will need to drill holes in the frame and the drive shaft might rub under full articulation. For $80 I found it easy to make it look stock. The E4OD Tranny mount cannot be used so you will need one for the M5OD or you will need to mod the new cross member for a different bolt pattern.
Drive shaft for the rear. Front can be cut down, but the rear needs to be longer. 3.25 inches longer to be exact. Any longer rear drive shaft will do. You will need to cut and balance it. Plan on new u-joints and if a Bronco a new carrier bearing in the rear to make it balance right.
Shifter with boots, and floor pan. Can be hard to find a good shifter in the bone yard but you can. might have to settle for a torn boot. The bolt to mount it to the shift stub would be nice, but you can re-drill the hole and modify a 3/4-inch bolt to fit. Basically you drill out the bolt hole to be the same size on both sides and then grind off the threads from one side of the bolt and you have a perfect replacement. The floor pan will be bolted down with 8mm screws. Again this must match your year group. If your truck does not have a removable floor pan I pity you, you will need to cut out for this as well as you will need new carpet to fit over it.
Clutch/brake pedal assembly. must be from your year group
Clutch interlock switch for your year group. Might be able to get this with the pedals.
Column top cover from a manual. If you pull your column you can remove the auto shifter. The new cover will have a hole for a key release but I just left it alone. You can use some ABS plastic and resin to repair the big hole but for $15 it is cheap from Ford.
*
ECC. The E4OD will work but it is not made for the manual. I am still running my old one but I have plans to change it out.
* Manual shifted BW 1356. The push button will work, but you will need to wire in a relay to allow you to put it in 4-LO. I choose the relay option. More to come on that MOD when I get around to doing it.
* Items are not required. Some fabing might be required if these are not used.The Work Factor
Once you have all the items it is time to go to work. First things first, out with the old. Start by pulling the front seats, console doorsill and pull back the carpet. Then pull the steering column. Picture A is what you will be working with. To get the column off you will need to pull the trim under it and then two screws. A little pulling is required to release the trim from the clips. You will also need to pull the trim from around the column. Put the key in and turn it a bit to allow the release of the removal pin (see PIC when I take one), then remove the lock. Four screws hold the trim around the column. One is hidden under the dash trim. The others are screwed in from the bottom. Next will be to remove the top bolt in the steering joint as seem in picture . There are four bolts holding on the column. Remove them and then the column. This shows what the column mount looks like after removal. Be careful to remove the three wiring clips from the top and the shift marker wire. The shifter cable will pop off and out.
Now you have six bolts holding the pedals on. Two on top and four through the firewall. See picture for more details. You will need to support the brake booster as the four lower bolts are what is hold it on. A red pin will allow you to remove the brake pedal from the booster. The switch can stay. No need to disconnect it. Now you will need to mount the new pedal assembly while you have the room.
A special note on the clutch master cylinder. If you have a different year group master than what your truck is you will have to modify the mount for the master cylinder. The ‘89 I used had the bolts that went into the inside with a nut inside while the ‘94 has studs for the master cylinder to have the nuts under the hood. They are stud so they can be driven out to accept the ‘89 style but must be drilled out a bit to accept a new bolt pattern. Mount the master cylinder after mounting the pedals.
Pull the shifter cable through to the underside of the truck. Replug the hole with another plug or reuse the old one and silicone it. On the column pull the three u-shaped mounts holding the shifter to the column. Reassemble the column to the truck. Replace the trim and the lock. Sorry I forgot to get pics of this.
Pull the floor pan you have, or mark and cut the floor for the new pan. It makes it easy to get to the tranny bell housing bolts and you need to do it any way. Do not mount the new floor pan.
Now is the time to grab some tools and dive under the truck. First remove the skid plate. Next remove the drive shafts, you did set the parking brake right? Take the shafts and get them resized as required. 3.25 inches shorter in the front and the same amount longer in the rear. Unplug the t-case. Now you can unbolt the t-case. It will stay when unbolted unless the front end is raised up really high. Bench press it off and to the ground. Set it aside. Remove the starter and the inspection plate from the tranny. Might be easier to remove the o2 sensor for now. Next remove the torque-converter bolts, turning the motor to reach each one. Now remove the pan from the tranny to drain it. While it is off remove the cooler lines. Chase them all the way to the cooler and remove the lines. A plastic bag and a piece of tape come in hand for this as in. Put the plastic bag over the hoses and tape it on. It keeps you from spilling ATF everywhere. Replace the pan. Only need a bolt or two to hold it on. Pull the harness from the computer module on the passenger side and also the MLPS from the driver side. Trace it back under the hood and remove it. Disconnect the shift cable and fully remove. Support the tranny and remove the cross member. Remove the six bolts in the bell housing and man handle the tranny down. Careful this is the heaviest tranny in a F1/350 truck. The M5OD is two third or less the weight of this bad boy. Remove the old flex plate.
Now you are done with the removal stage time to go back together. While you have them in your hand, You can mount the flywheel with the bolts you just removed from the flex plate. Using a big socket, tap in the pilot bearing into the end of the crank shaft. Next comes mounting the pressure plate and clutch disk. Get a clutch tool for this. They cost about $3.00. Follow Haynes guide for this installation. What don’t have a Haynes? SPEND THE $12 You cheap @#$#%$#@. Now is a good time to install the new tranny wire harness.
Go get the new tranny and mount the ***** cylinder to it. Don’t forget the throw out bearing. If you bought a new ****** it comes with it. Time to hoist up the new tranny. Use a good floor jack or tranny jack to save some time. Once in place, bolt it up to the engine. Loosely bolt the tranny mount to the cross member. Slide it into the frame and loosely bolt it in place. Do the same with the cross member support brackets. Once bolted to the tranny you can tighten all of the bolts down. Run the hose for the ***** from the master cylinder. Heat it as required to bend into place. Bench press the t-case in place and bolt it down. Reconnect the harness for it. Bolt in the drive shafts. Remount the skid plate. Follow Haynes to bleed the clutch. Remount the starter and use 1/4 inch bolts with nuts mount the inspection cover to the tranny. Replace the O2 if removed. Mount the new floor pan, replace the carpet and cut out for the shifter. Carpet needs cut out about one inch larger that the hole. ***** down the shifter, seats and console. Reattach and trim pulled for this. Time for a start.
Try and start it in neutral with out the clutch in. This is to test the interlock switch. Next start the truck. Try and put it in gear. Run through the gears a few times while sitting still. Have someone check the back-up lights while you are in reverse. Time for a test drive. Troubleshoot any new noises, then enjoy!..."
Next is
[5OD Clutch Interlock Switch Wiring Diagram in a 91[/url] These are the 2 wires Ben mentioned; this replaces the MLPS.
Source: by Ford via Ryan M (Fireguy50) at
http://web.archive.org/web/20101201005047/http://fordfuelinjection.com/files/bronco_1991_24-5.gif
A quickie but somewhat dangerous, if left in-place check is to jumper em out.
Also by Franklin; Safety Neutral Switch Fix - E4OD to ZF
Following the harness from the E40D to the main harness, you can remove the entire tranny harness. Looking inside the plug off the main harness, connector on top. The top 2 wires on the right (red w/ blk, red w/ gray) are the wires to work with. Redneck way is to cut the 2 wires and splice them together and tape. Or buy a splice connector and fuse these 2 wires together. Congrats you have just fooled your ECM into thinking it is in neutral.
94 E.B. ZF 5 Sp Conversion
Franklin meant
GY/R and R/LB in this E4OD diagram; of course, Ford lables the MLPS as the Transmission Range Sensor (TR) here
http://www.supermotors.net/registry/media/774998 by Ford via Steve83
